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DIY Permanent, NON paper, door rattle fix.

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Old 06-03-2013, 07:52 PM
  #61  
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I was considering posting a DIY with pictures until i found this....I just completed the project about 30 mins ago... Its a great solution to an annoying problem. I recommend using a product known as Dynamat which acts as a great vibration absorber. Dynamat sells for around 15$ a sq foot which is great considering thats about as much as you will need. You can find this at any local audio shop. If anyone has any questions about this DIY, feel free to message me.
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Old 07-04-2013, 11:39 PM
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Default 3M molding tape option

Originally Posted by Cement_11s
Thanks! I finally got around to doing this and decided to use this!



I did the driver side just now and it works great and has no buzzing!! This seemed to be perfect and there was very minimal cutting! I also got it at Wal-Mart, but I've seen it for sure at Advance Auto Parts. I assume they would have it at AutoZone too.I found the foam he suggested, but like most of you have found way too much for a small project. I paid like $5 for it btw. Good luck!
The Walmart foam seems to be the most popular option but I happen to have lots of 3M molding tape at the house so I thought I'd go that route to avoid spending money I didn't need to. Did you expose both sticky sides of the tape or leave the top side covered with the red film so that the switch panel didn't stick to it if you needed to pull it back off later?
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Old 11-18-2013, 02:53 AM
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So I know that there's 2 option presented here but neither worked for me so I got creative and went and got some polyester stuffing from Walmart. You could get it there or any craft store. I then cut it and filled the driver side door to the brim with it. And now there is no longer any more vibrations even with "feel" on and bass at 5. I'll upload a video to show you tomorrow if you guys would like. [attach][/attach]


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Old 11-18-2013, 03:21 AM
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that's a cool fix. i did the paper fix before, but then removed it for fire hazard fears. now my panels keep popping up randomly and it is extremely frustrating. oddly enough i have stopped hearing any vibrations or rattles coming from the door panels even after i removed the paper fixes. cool!
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Old 11-18-2013, 03:24 AM
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Well now I hope my car doesn't burst Into flames! Haha but I think yours isn't rattling anymore because there's space so the plastic isn't tapping itself!


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Old 11-18-2013, 04:18 AM
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imagine that haha. but no you're very safe, I was just overreacting back then. for the past say 3 months the panels have stayed put and have not popped up, so i am happy again. before they were popping up every few days for 5 months. super annoying. i dint even break any of the latches i don't think. no idea why they kept doing that.
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Old 11-18-2013, 04:42 AM
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I just sound deadened metal and plastic paired with rubber and ensolite my rattles are eliminated
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Newman
imagine that haha. but no you're very safe, I was just overreacting back then. for the past say 3 months the panels have stayed put and have not popped up, so i am happy again. before they were popping up every few days for 5 months. super annoying. i dint even break any of the latches i don't think. no idea why they kept doing that.
Maybe they weren't latched down the whole way? That's weird, either way at least it's fixed now!


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Old 11-18-2013, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by FreedomPenguin
I just sound deadened metal and plastic paired with rubber and ensolite my rattles are eliminated
You have any pictures?


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Old 11-18-2013, 07:21 PM
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I didn't think anyone cared
I use to have pics posted and deleted everything.

Bought stinger road kill on amazon,
Ensolite from well google ensolite lol.
Paired together with rubber foam etc strategically placed worked out a lot of hours though.
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:41 PM
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Right a lot of effort I'm sure but if it works it works! Now how about removal. Are you still able to take the control panel off if need be?


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Old 11-19-2013, 02:19 AM
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Default DIY Permanent, NON paper, door rattle fix.

Everything's remove able. I wouldn't do anything that's not other than sound deadener because if something breaks I need to get in to fix it.

That foam stuff someone did, neat and all but totally looks like a fire hazard.

Outside and inside skin are lizard skinned + stinger road killed, then on inside skin (side you see when door panel comes off, I put 2 full entire layers of it on the sound deadening.


After that. The door panel itself, I put a bunch of sound deadener pieces around inside it because absorbs rattle, now when you lay the panel on the door, the ensolite (rubber) instead of your door panel against metal, it's plastic panel against ensolite, (rubber)

Now that we've deadened and got rid of rattles. Time to fix the arm rest:switch piece

I took the gooey crap from a few pieces of the butyl sound deadener and rolled it up into sphere circles and put them around bottom of that plastic piece that sets into door panel (control switch piece) I also put some double sided tape too. My idea was to have padding. Non plastic and smushed it into door.

I've removed them several times no issues, the sound deadener though inside your door. It's not coming back off, once it adheres, forget about it.


Did that to both doors, also a few pieces of dash I took apart and put ensolite between direct plastic to plastic parts that rub against each other


Did entire floor and rear hatch, and rear wheel wells, sound deafening and ensolite
I have every bit if 20 hours in it, it's a learning experience but my sound is greatly reduced. My noise now comes from roof which is unavoidable since it's glass.
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by FreedomPenguin
Everything's remove able. I wouldn't do anything that's not other than sound deadener because if something breaks I need to get in to fix it.

That foam stuff someone did, neat and all but totally looks like a fire hazard.

Outside and inside skin are lizard skinned + stinger road killed, then on inside skin (side you see when door panel comes off, I put 2 full entire layers of it on the sound deadening.


After that. The door panel itself, I put a bunch of sound deadener pieces around inside it because absorbs rattle, now when you lay the panel on the door, the ensolite (rubber) instead of your door panel against metal, it's plastic panel against ensolite, (rubber)

Now that we've deadened and got rid of rattles. Time to fix the arm rest:switch piece

I took the gooey crap from a few pieces of the butyl sound deadener and rolled it up into sphere circles and put them around bottom of that plastic piece that sets into door panel (control switch piece) I also put some double sided tape too. My idea was to have padding. Non plastic and smushed it into door.

I've removed them several times no issues, the sound deadener though inside your door. It's not coming back off, once it adheres, forget about it.


Did that to both doors, also a few pieces of dash I took apart and put ensolite between direct plastic to plastic parts that rub against each other


Did entire floor and rear hatch, and rear wheel wells, sound deafening and ensolite
I have every bit if 20 hours in it, it's a learning experience but my sound is greatly reduced. My noise now comes from roof which is unavoidable since it's glass.
Beautiful and thorough write up! When I get a chance I'll tear her down and add some sound deadener.


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Old 11-19-2013, 02:32 AM
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I put a layer entire inside if door, then on the Side towards you, I put a big square over the hole. I left the plastic vapor lock and put the deadener over it, I left a small piece opening so I could open it back up easy, if I recall I sealed it back with tape. No reason to tear vapor lock out, can be used to your advantage with easy access for future. You'll see what I mean when your in there.


It's not so hard, I learned everything as I went, if I took door panel off all you'd see is the final layer of black because ensolite covers it.

I did all this and my oem audio plus sounds amazing truly does.

Be aware your gonna cut and slice the ____ of your hands. The metal inside of the scion doors is sharp as ____, the colder the metal the less chance you have for accidental stick, easy to peel the sound deadener and replace
Warmer makes it set quicker, kind of like food I suppose? Idk
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:33 AM
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even though you sound deadened, are you still able to hear car horns and sirens the same as before? sorry i tend to think up of the most ridiculous things to complain about lmao. just interested in knowing if sound-deadening can affect your ability to hear important road noises like far-away signals.
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:37 AM
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I am a police officer, I hear what your saying, I sound deadened doors and floors, you forget our windows and roof is where noise comes from as well, the noise I tried to block was road noise. Which I did very happy with results. Before I wanted to get rid of car but now it' doesn't effect me. Sirens horsns etc will come through your windows and glass no issue. I hear rain on roof just like before, but not under car from wheels as much; make sense? Ish?
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Pyroxmaniia
Beautiful and thorough write up! When I get a chance I'll tear her down and add some sound deadener.


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Sound deadener by itself does little, ensolite bt itself does little, but man, you put some deadener down, and 2 layers of Ensolitr, somehow it just got 10x quiter than individual.
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:46 AM
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That explanation is awesome, so basically it doesn't affect the louder signal noises we do need to hear - great! how much did it cost to sound deaden the whole sucker?
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:55 AM
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70 in Ensolite on raamaudio
140 in stinger road kill on amazon

My hours-priceless and miserable lol.
Random things, ducht tape to reseal vapor liner, erm, double sided tape for door handle control switch with rubber ensolite pieces and the butyl gunk into ***** under the plastic between plastics to be like a clay?

You'll figure it out as you go.
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:57 AM
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sounds very affordable, thanks.
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