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Brake Pad Change (No Pics)

Old 07-04-2006, 09:42 PM
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Why would one have to bleed the brake lines? The system was never openned and the brake line was never exposed to the air.
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Old 07-06-2006, 01:33 AM
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i just did it to mine today it was very easy!
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Old 07-06-2006, 03:21 AM
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Did you bleed the line?
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Old 07-06-2006, 06:33 AM
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no.... no need it really is very simple 1 screw old pads off new pads just slide in use the c clamp to push the piston back in and screw the screw back in and your done.... about 15 min.

axxis ult are very good by the way!
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Old 07-06-2006, 09:41 PM
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Thanks for the info!
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Old 07-07-2006, 04:08 AM
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ok well i need some help........ after driving the car hard it seems they my brakes are not working very well.. it seems like the pressure in the lines is not very high and i need to press it in pretty far to get it to go..... also when im stoped(auto trans) when i hit the brakes really quick it usually jumps back and forth but now its like really slugish


HELP.........
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Old 07-07-2006, 05:06 AM
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bleed brakes?
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Old 07-07-2006, 05:11 AM
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i never did.... every 1 says you dont need to im using axxis unlimited by the way.

i slamed the breaks and they locked up so they are working but it just feels very slugish and if you tap it hard its not a sudden jerk..
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Old 07-16-2006, 08:57 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by FromThisSoil
Originally Posted by krdshrk
I gotta change my brake lines too that's why I was wondering...

... now how hard is it to change the rotors?
Not hard at all.

All you have to do is:

1. Remove the other bolt on the caliper
2. Slide the caliper off
3. Suspend the the caliper with some wire and hang it on the springs up top. Don't let the brake line and caliper just dangle.
4. Remove the bolts from the caliper mount.
5. Slide off the mount.
6. Slide off the rotor, which might take a little bit of force due to rusting.

How the hell hard do you need to pry on this thing? Ive tried EVERYTHING to get it off? Are you sure you dont have to take off that HUGE black nut thats in the middle?
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Old 07-16-2006, 09:18 PM
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Come on seriously, nobody here knows? I find this hard to believe...where the hell are the people who know what the heck they are talking about?"
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Old 07-17-2006, 12:10 AM
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^^ you need to wait a little longer, not everyone is on the board 24 hrs a day
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Old 07-17-2006, 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by acelesson
Originally Posted by FromThisSoil
Originally Posted by krdshrk
I gotta change my brake lines too that's why I was wondering...

... now how hard is it to change the rotors?
Not hard at all.

All you have to do is:

1. Remove the other bolt on the caliper
2. Slide the caliper off
3. Suspend the the caliper with some wire and hang it on the springs up top. Don't let the brake line and caliper just dangle.
4. Remove the bolts from the caliper mount.
5. Slide off the mount.
6. Slide off the rotor, which might take a little bit of force due to rusting.

How the hell hard do you need to pry on this thing? Ive tried EVERYTHING to get it off? Are you sure you dont have to take off that HUGE black nut thats in the middle?

next time wait a little longer than 20 mins before posting a bump.
anyways, don't pry it off, most likely it's held on with rust, you need to smash it with a hammer towards the center in a circle pattern and it will probably fall off. that thing in the center is the dust cover for you drive shaft leave it alone (correct me if wrong on this)
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Old 07-18-2006, 10:48 AM
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nice writeup, watching
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Old 07-30-2006, 04:33 PM
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so are most of you guys chaning front and rear pads or just the fronts for now? i seen a couple replies on pg2 but wanted to hear more opinions from others. thanks
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Old 07-30-2006, 04:53 PM
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just fronts - the rears you dont stop as hard on so they dont wear as fast. i am hoping to get mine done tomorrow. i just picked up a brake bleeder for $8 from the store.
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Old 07-30-2006, 06:33 PM
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i'm sure this was already asked, when you change the pads are you resurfacing the rotors?
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Old 07-30-2006, 06:35 PM
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I would assume it wouldnt be needed for the first change. it couldnt hurt but might not be needed.
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Old 08-04-2006, 12:04 AM
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well guys - i torqued the caliper bolts to 40lbs and broke the bolt - i can tell ya one thing .... the lbs is prob more like 30-35 .... it sure as hell isnt over 35.
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Old 08-04-2006, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by FromThisSoil
9. Reinstall the bolt removed in step 3, tighten by HAND
I believe it's 25ft.lb. for those who have a torque wrench.
its gotta be right around that.
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Old 08-04-2006, 10:54 PM
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ok guys - I went to toyota today to buy the bolts. It turns out that most toyota dealers do not stock them. I found a larger dealership that happened to have 23of them. I think they cost me around $.56 each and I bought 6. I changed all 4 bolts in the front since they were so cheap. They told me the torque setting for the caliper bolts are 25lbs. When I took off my caliper on the other side they were torqued to 30lbs. Moral of the story is ...30lbs is the MAX!! I was talked to the guy I work with today and he said I had the torque wrench up to 50lbs. ..... 50lbs will break the bolts just so you guys know. I would say torque anywhere from 25 to 30.

Turned out that I had 1/2 my pads left and it was the heat shield that was rubbing. Now that I have new pads, bleeded brake lines, and clean rims (from my tire rotation) I can go on with things and deff say that I learned a lot from this venture. The hardest part about changing brakes is getting enough (ballz) courage to do it for the first time. The guy at work helped me do the one wheel and I did the other today by myself (and also rebolted the other caliper w/ the broken bolt).

There is nothing hard about doing this after you know how to properly do the first wheel. Honestly I knew it was easy to change brakes but it was A LOT easier then what I even thought. I went to pepboys and bought a $8 self bleeding kit which helped me compress the piston very very very easily. Some guys say ya dont need the bleed the lines but I did and it was a very easy thing to do.

Last thing: the part number for the front caliper bolts (2 small 1inch'ish bolts) is: 90105-08164 - All the dealers said their prices were the same so expect to pay .56-$2.30 per bolt.
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