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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 12:34 AM
  #121  
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that piece will help w/ the vibration also. also - matt the metal piece to the side of the speaker
Old Apr 3, 2006 | 11:51 AM
  #122  
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well the EU's are pretty deep. That would require quite a deep XTC baffle.
Old Apr 5, 2006 | 02:53 AM
  #123  
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panel is not vibrating, the speaker is hitting the panel when it gets a big bass note. Gonna have to check it out. I have a couple of ideas. More to come later.
Old Apr 8, 2006 | 09:27 PM
  #124  
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UPDATE: I decided the EU700s wouldn't work too well in the rear panels, so I moved them back and put the dB650s in there. It sounds a lot better and everything is concealed, so NO BOX and I can put my golf clubs in there without removing the subs.





I have bandpass filters on the dB650 to cut out the lows and highs and just give me solid midrange. The dB6500s in the doors SCREAM. I had to turn the gain down on them.

Very happy with this setup.
Old Apr 8, 2006 | 09:36 PM
  #125  
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dude, thats a freakin sweet spot for those Eu-700s! I was waiting on someone to do that(put subs in that empty spot), they look so perfect in that spot too. what amp are you using to power them bro? excellent job :D
Old Apr 8, 2006 | 09:39 PM
  #126  
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I had a Rockford Phosgate sub amp sitting around 150x1 at 4ohms. Those are two dual 2 EU700s wired up to give a 2ohm load to the amp. The bench testing at a 2 ohm load is 183W. Oh and that is a butt load of poly-fil behind them and all up through the rear panel. The remainder is stuffed around the dB650s in the rear seat area...you can kinda see it.
Old Apr 8, 2006 | 09:50 PM
  #127  
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is that a sheet of mdf bolted on the car to hold the Eu-700? looks like it, but just wanted to make sure. and can you get some closer n clearer pix? hehe
Old Apr 8, 2006 | 09:57 PM
  #128  
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it is MDF. It had to be cut smaller than I would like to fit into the spot to mount from the rear so the speaker would not hit the panel that bolts on there. This is all I have:



Old Apr 8, 2006 | 09:59 PM
  #129  
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thats fantabulous mang, thanks for the pix.
Old Apr 8, 2006 | 10:06 PM
  #130  
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That is nice sir...very nice.

Are they actually enclosed or just sitting there?

How does it sound?
Old Apr 8, 2006 | 10:17 PM
  #131  
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sounds great. They are not "enclosed", but the poly-fil helps. I still wanted access to the taillights. Also in order to fit the panel in there I couldn't make it fit tightly. I did it with cardboard first and used that as a template. They probably would pound more if they were in a sealed enclosure, but they sound great with the music I listen to and add the fill I wanted on the bottom end. I put some 50cent to get some bass pounding and adjusted the gain on the amp that way. They hit pretty good even though it is a "free-air" application. But according to the eDesign website, they are still good in a panel-mount "free-air" application. I am happy.

well off to Club Cafe to see the bands.

later.
Old Apr 8, 2006 | 11:43 PM
  #132  
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how are you planning on putting the lining back? ... are you going to cut it put the lining back then the subs back?
Old Apr 9, 2006 | 05:42 PM
  #133  
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no the lining is just on there over them. I removed the padding where the speaker is. The sound still comes through...believe me. I was thinking of punching some small holes in it anyway to keep it from absorbing the sound, but actually it sounds good covered. You don't even know they are there unless the stereo is on...you wonder "where is that bass coming from??

:D
Old Apr 10, 2006 | 12:51 AM
  #134  
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it would look pretty nice if you cut holes and put a grille over the speakers. I bet it sounds nice but should be punchier (i know thats not a word) w/o them being covered. Good work!
Old Apr 10, 2006 | 09:41 AM
  #135  
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ok i dont want to sound like a complete idiot or anything but I have a few questions on that setup, only because I DEFINATELY want to do it if it works out...so here it goes...

1) How is the MDF board being held up (probably covered somewhere in the post but I didnt see it or I didnt understand it)

2) Would you choose a 10 inch sub in a closed box over those two 6.5 mid-ranges (I know its a vague question)

3) Are you running the amp from the stock HU or aftermarket (if aftermarket, can it be done well on the stock HU without the RF package)

Sorry if the questions are noob'ish
Old Apr 10, 2006 | 11:53 AM
  #136  
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ok i dont want to sound like a complete idiot or anything but I have a few questions on that setup, only because I DEFINATELY want to do it if it works out...so here it goes...

1) How is the MDF board being held up (probably covered somewhere in the post but I didnt see it or I didnt understand it)

2) Would you choose a 10 inch sub in a closed box over those two 6.5 mid-ranges (I know its a vague question)

3) Are you running the amp from the stock HU or aftermarket (if aftermarket, can it be done well on the stock HU without the RF package)

Sorry if the questions are noob'ish
1) the MDF board is being held up by bolting it to the sheet metal flange around the wheel well. If you can see, there are 4 bolts on each one. That holds it SOLID. It doesn't move. Optionally, to add stability, you can put an L-bracket (steel) on the back of the upper right corner that bolts to the metal around the inside of the taillight. I am running without it right now as it would be a pain in the **** to install, and I would probably need to remove the taillight to do it correctly. The board is pretty stable mounted as is, so I don't think I will add it.

2) Hard to say. I am sure a big sub has the ability to hit harder down low, but it is all about preference. I wanted decent bass that didn't keep me from throwing the golf clubs in the back. I had a 12" sub in a ported box before and always had to remove it when I needed to use the back. It also sounded bad to me. It was a bad box.

3) I am running 2 amps from the stock head unit. An alpine 4 channel for my components and midranges, and the rockford for the eD 700s. I am using the RCA converters you can find on eBay that plug into the stock wiring harness. This creates two sets of jacks (front and rear). I run the RCAs to the Alpine which has a pass-thru jack, that passes the signal to the Rockford amp. It sounds good with the stock head unit. I imagine it would sound better if I had an aftermarket receiver that could pass a stronger/cleaner signal to the amps.
Old Apr 10, 2006 | 03:48 PM
  #137  
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Hmmm ok, so basically the stock HU "HAS" the RCA jack already regardless of whether you have the RF package or not? Or does the converter just plug into the HU's wiring harness to convert into the RCA cables?
So im guessing because you aren't pushing that much power, you wouldn't necessarily need a new battery or a CAP, am I correct?
Old Apr 10, 2006 | 04:36 PM
  #138  
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no the stock HU doesn't have the RCAs, I am using an adapter the plugs inline with the stock speaker and power harness and it converts to 2 sets of RCAs. (a line out converter basically).

No need for a new battery or Cap. I am only running 543W. (360 for the alpine, and 183W for the rockford).
Old Apr 10, 2006 | 04:45 PM
  #139  
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ah cool thanks, I think im getting a clearer picture in my head of whats going on. Thanks again, I think im gonna get the Eu-700's with either a PPI/JL/PG amp and see how it goes from there.
Old Apr 14, 2006 | 04:20 PM
  #140  
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How do I remove the dash panel if I have an automatic instead of a manual?



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