Very cool. I was looking at Dynomat, but it costs way to much, IMO. I'll go with the v3 and see how that goes.

About how much will I need if I decide to do the whole car? I was thinkin of just doin the rear half for now (hatch and rear seat areas), so I figure one bucket will do for that. I'll do the doors when I get speakers up front.

 

rear seats and hatch, might end up with a little mroe than 1 gallon to do the full thing...depends on how overboard you go

 

talk about 56k DEATH.

 

Just ordered the v3 in black.

 

Mandos, excellent walkthough! Thanks for taking the time to share this info!

Just one question. Does anyone know if there would be any issues when removing the seats with side airbags?

 

do yo uhave to deaden the car? cuz thats just more money out of my pocket lol. or is it something u can do in the future after u put in the stereo and what not?

 

You can do it later if you want

 

will it make that much a difference with the stereo im puttin in?

 

dont forget it helps a lot w/ road noise.

 

How hard would it be for someone with virtually no car audio experience to do all this? I'm willing to learn and I was able to install my HU with minimal research pretty easily.

 

Myself and other people have talked about this issue in past posts. Search for them - then ask questions in another post. The basics of audio ( i think ) is very easy. You are running wires that need to complete a circuit. Pretty much when you amp speakers you are just running RCA cables (the left and right) from the head unit to the amp. Then - there are left/right speaker wires that go to each amped speaker. Even for the beginner I think you will be fine w/ a few questions answered. I used to put systems in cars for friends when I was 15 ....so .... I cant be that hard ..hehe.

 

Seemsl ike an odd topic to find good keywords for but I will see what I can find.

I know all the electrical stuff...I'm a big home theater buff. It's more about the physical installation and removal etc than the connections. I know you can cause car fires by improper wiring your car...now that scares me.

 

page 3 has what the speakers look like:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...=asc&&start=50

the fronts you can put 6 1/2's and get the mounts that mandos makes. I made my own but if i knew he made them I would have bought his. Also - i had the wrong size - i have 5 1/4's and should have had 6 1/2's. The backs are smaller then 6x9's but you can put larger then 6 3/4's if you want. You have to drill your own holes which really isnt that bad if you take your time and cover the speaker - u dont wanna the drill or screw driver to slip off and go through your speaker *(which almost happened to me).

other then that - u need a power wire that goes from your battery to the amp. Then a ground that u drill a screw into anything metal and that goes to the amp. Then one set or RCA's that go from the headunit to the amp. Then you run one pair (right and left) to the amp to each speaker. When running the power wire I would run it through the firewall hole that is already cut under where the drivers feet is. You will see a big rubber gromet. Put it through there. At the very end of your power wire by where the battery is you will have a big fuse - that will help stop a fire - just make sure you run your wire through the firewall w/ that hole thats already there .... I made my own in my truck and bought gromets - well .... the gromet wore away after time and then the wire cut into the metal ....it kept sparking and blowing my amp fuses .... that happened over and over when I figured out what the problem was. Long story short .... I was taking the wire out to fix it when it sparked for the last time and the first went right up the line in a second - we were able to put it out w/o any damage but it scared the BONKERS out of me!!! Honestly - it was a 1/2 a second and the fire when strait up the power line .... anyway - use the hole thats already there. There is a very heavy gromet there ... if you dont trust that .... wrap the power wire in tap for a few layers .... other then that ...dont worry. Use the same fuses that came w/ the amp .... if it sparks it will blow the fuse and you will be fine (but 99.9% it wont spark ever) .... I didnt do things right and it did. ...and I didnt know why so I kept putting more and more fuses in.

 

Thanks for the tips and experience. Is there no precut hole or way that does not involve making new holes to run the wire to the trunk?

 

very nice writeup. i was planning on doing my doors, but i dont know where to start. the doors have a horrible rattle when i turn my music up. so i just put the sound deadening on the whole door panel? i saw pics of the door a few pages back, but it didnt really tell me much. i'd appreciate it if someone could let me know.

 

well - i had to take a lot of my deadening off my door because te panel didnt fit right with it on. Unless you want to go into the door where the window is ...you dont really have much to pad. Also - you can do around the speaker if you want.

 

This is the best tutorial ever. I'm planning on running a full SQ-style setup in my car, and I'm sold on using eDead thanks to this. mandos, how much eDead v3 would I need to cover this area? About 2 gallons? It seems that it's 1. lighter and 2. easier to apply than the mat type. I'll probably also get you guys to do my subwoofer cabinet build too. Actually, might as well just PM me if you see this - I don't know whether I'm doing interior or suspension first, but I'm thinking I'll be doing interior during january.

That said, I'm doing all of my interior at once. Everything from stereo to deadening to seats etc. I should save some money.

 

Bookmark-save...

 

did u get better 1/4 mile?

 

From what? Adding a hundred pounds of sound proofing material? The gutting of the interior was for him to add eDead for his stereo equipment.