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Transmission Flush (Manual, Redline MT-90)

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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 05:32 AM
  #161  
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..... ATF = auto tranny fliud....

hmm.. seems that it's listed in both the manual and auto section..

how odd... a versatile oil..

though... i doubt it's going to provide much of a difference between stock... as the mt-90 is geared towards a manual tranny.

*shrugs*.. i wouldn't have done it.. but seems to me it was safe.. at least
Old Nov 19, 2006 | 08:06 PM
  #162  
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just ordered mine!
Old Dec 3, 2006 | 12:45 AM
  #163  
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Since I got my car, I had always been a little disgruntled with rough 1st to 2nd shifts in the cold.

After 22,000 miles, I figured I might as well try the this. I did the change using Royal Purple Max-Gear 75W90 fully synthetic.

At first, everything was better, but I did notice the car having a lot of trouble going from 2nd to 1st (at a dead stop at just about idle.)

It's been 2 weeks now, and after a few really cold mornings, I'm taking the car to the dealer the next chance I get. Even once warmed up, 1st-2nd and 2nd-3rd shifts ALWAYS grind slightly. This is unacceptable.

Also I'll mention that fully synthetic fluid is a recommended remedy to the problem, and Royal Purple 75W90 will not void the warranty.

I've noticed some people with major tranny issues in other threads, and thats where I'm headed...
Old Dec 3, 2006 | 01:24 AM
  #164  
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Fredzy hows your reverse on a cold morning? Mine sucks, most of the time i got to run it through all the gears to get it in. I also have that 1st to 2nd crunch like you said, but if i shift 1st to 2nd at around 3500 rpm it seems ok...
Old Dec 3, 2006 | 01:32 AM
  #165  
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My reverse can be rough, and usually requires a run into 1st before i can get in. Since reverse is not synchronized in the tC, this problem can't be fully solved.

You could probably get in every time after only putting it in 1st gear... sometimes when I'm impatient and I go for reverse and it won't let me in, I just let the brake off and let the car budge slightly, allowing the gears to move and it falls into reverse.. but be careful with that.

Yea, I have been getting into 2nd at higher rev's lately now, but usually because I'm so ____ed at my gearbox that I haul off down the road like I'm driving a Mustang or something haha.
Old Dec 3, 2006 | 01:40 AM
  #166  
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Lol, same thing here, I don't know. Iv'e been wanting to go to the dealer also but i know whats going to happen. There just gonna take the car for an hour or two and give it back and say that its supose to be like that or that they cant make it repete that problem..
Old Dec 3, 2006 | 01:58 AM
  #167  
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I am going to do whatever I can to build a case on this transmission problem before I go to my dealer - though I'm not sure how.

Check out some other threads in the tC drivetrain/power forums, like this:

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...768&highlight=

I'm not going to print off these guys posts and show them to ol' Gus the car salesman and say "Put a new transmission in, please!" ... but I'm definitely going to make sure they know in their honest little hearts that there is a problem, haha.
Old Dec 3, 2006 | 07:03 PM
  #168  
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A friend of mine who also had a tC switched out his MT oil with the Royal Purple and while it was good at first, he soon started having some grinding and chatter like what you're describing. I had been looking into the Redline MT90 and so we ordered some together from Summit and his problems went away immediately.
I've looked around the internets and while a GL-4 or GL-5 spec 75w90 gear oil is recommended for our transmissions i think perhaps a GL-4 might be preferable. The royal purple you bought mentions having some kind of extra friction modifiers in it and i think our synchros don't like it. Royal Purple is a GL-5, while the Redline is GL-4.
You might want to try switching to the Redline before making any great demands of your dealership, i'm sure they're not going to give you a new transmission just for the problems you've been describing, especially since you changed your fluid, you know how dealerships can be.
I'm in no way an expert on gear oils or anything, but that has been my experience in changing out the tranny fluid and i thought i'd pass the info along. I'd encourage you to look into both products side by side and see for yourself.

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_g...7&categoryID=7
read the MTL tech info at the bottom

http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/mgeara.html
Old Dec 3, 2006 | 07:09 PM
  #169  
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Encouraging words, Missile... I'm def gonna try the MT90... should have just ordered some in the first damn place!

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...erything&hl=en

Watch out for anti-everything guns Missile!
Old Dec 3, 2006 | 09:13 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by Fredzy
Encouraging words, Missile... I'm def gonna try the MT90... should have just ordered some in the first damn place!

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...erything&hl=en

Watch out for anti-everything guns Missile!
Ack! :D
Old Dec 4, 2006 | 02:18 PM
  #171  
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Yes, Royal Purple has graphite friction inhibitors which eventually begin to wear into the metal contacts as time goes on. Redline MT-90 is GL-4 complient and has no graphite in it.
Old Dec 4, 2006 | 02:20 PM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by Fredzy
Encouraging words, Missile... I'm def gonna try the MT90... should have just ordered some in the first damn place!

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...erything&hl=en

Watch out for anti-everything guns Missile!

The final shots at night with the trailer rounds is amazing. Looks like a flame thrower.
Old Dec 4, 2006 | 05:16 PM
  #173  
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Would you think the Royal Ppurple could cause any permanent effect on the shifting performance, if as you say it causes some sort of undesireable wear on contact surfaces?

It seems to me that a boundary layer of sorts (perhaps a product of the graphite stuff) is preventing the synchro's from doing their job. Hopefully a switch to MT90 will result in complete reversal of those effects - I don't see why an oil could cause permanent damage - even to brass.
Old Dec 4, 2006 | 05:20 PM
  #174  
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that is exactly what the problem is with the royal purple. the graphite works very well, and too well at that. it is very smooth operating at first but then builds up a layer on the contacted metal. That layer begins to effected driveability in engines as well as tranys. I would do the swap but do it this way.

To ensure that you get it all out, drain the royal purple, get 2.5 quarts of GL-4 compliant trany fulid, drive it around for a few miles (50 or so doing a lot of shifting to ensure that the fluid works its way up through the trany), drain that fluid and refil with 2.5 quarts of MT-90.
Old Dec 4, 2006 | 05:29 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by web
To ensure that you get it all out, drain the royal purple, get 2.5 quarts of GL-4 compliant trany fulid, drive it around for a few miles (50 or so doing a lot of shifting to ensure that the fluid works its way up through the trany), drain that fluid and refil with 2.5 quarts of MT-90.
Aw man, that's what I was thinking, too. What a pain, at least 50 bucks wasted here
Old Dec 4, 2006 | 05:31 PM
  #176  
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Yeah..............it blows ..............sorry bud
Old Dec 21, 2006 | 01:39 AM
  #177  
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Anyone know if the filler and drain plug gaskets are the same as the engine oil drain plug gasket?

Old Dec 21, 2006 | 01:46 AM
  #178  
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The transmission fill and drain plug gaskets are much lager than the engine oil drain plug gasket.
Old Dec 21, 2006 | 04:06 AM
  #179  
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^^ 24mm.. pretty big.
Old Dec 21, 2006 | 04:44 AM
  #180  
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is there any harm switching back to regular motor oil?



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