Transmission Flush (Manual, Redline MT-90)
I know I dont own a TC, but alot of people claim that Redline is awesome for the xb's/xa's but I went with BG syncro 75w-90.
Works like a charm. Alot of european car tuners use it as well.
It might be cheaper? No clue, but its good stuff.
Works like a charm. Alot of european car tuners use it as well.
It might be cheaper? No clue, but its good stuff.
nahh redline lol i had redline in for maybe 2000 miles. and it may have been the worst thing i have ever done, at first it was fine but then with time and sudden weather chanegs it started feeling sh*tty then to the point of the gears not even going into gear or a crunching noise getting into gears. i thought "oh sh*t, my synchros are fuked" but i changed it out to eneos and again at first felt great and it still does feel good, nothing like redline yea the presence of the redline is still in the tranny but with more and more time it started driving and shifting fine.
i just change to redline from OEM....it goes into gears smoother now feels good.....but what im heating now after a certian time problems comes back or something i thought i did a good think i just hope it doesnt happen to me i just did it the other day....
why are you gies changing your bushings to the doctor ISO ones.....is it any better i just hears its stiffer....
why are you gies changing your bushings to the doctor ISO ones.....is it any better i just hears its stiffer....
even though people made the change to the redline..but this DIY thread was made in 2006 3 yrs ago and most if not all people never updated this meaning they never posted how it was like after2-3000 miles of using it....they just said they changes it and everything is fine who knows what problems they made have and what they other oil they had to change to.....i know myself read this thread it seemed cool and everyone was happy that i can see maybe one or two said it was no good but i took a try first put it in it was great but have about little over 2k miles crunching gears started to happen....i talked to user rosedaleny806 and that person had very similar problem and recommed me to go to eneos so i bought and and waiting for it....but every car is different
yeah gp1817 if i were u jus drain out that redline and go with eneos bro, it may feel good at first but after a certain amount of miles it feels like complete sh*t. once u go with eneos it feels immediatly bette, but like i said before the presence of the redline is still there but with time it will go back to normal and the DR I cable bushings or any bsuhing are better cause it makes shifting precise with lack of misshifting or any of that it stiff to the point where u have feel of the gears going in
goona see what happens after 500 miles and see if problems arises .....i though i did a good thing.......now it a matter of time to wait if i start to feel grinding or crunching then ill change it right away.maybe ill pick up some of those bushings hope there easy to do
its a huge pain it felt fine at first but then after a month it got gradually worse to the point where im at idle goign threw the gears and they wouldnt go in at all, and when the weather was colder even worse. once it happens bro change them ASAP the bushing are amazing i loved them and for $27 shipped u cant go wrong for precise shifting
I think i figured out what is happening with going from OEM to redline...
You ever see a realtime mixing of lucas oil additive to high quality oils? The oil starts to bubble and break down.
So maybe the OEM fluid is causing the Redline to bubble an
d breakdown faster. The reason why it might feel better with eneos is because you get rid of the OEM/redline mix and go with eneos with a little redline left.
While it may not be a bubbling problem it could jus tbe that mixing the OEM and the redline together ruins everything after 2k.
Go with a Category 4 or 5 synthetic, like eneos or BG syncro shift II. Do a complete proper flush. Without the stupid flush ingredients.
Fill it up with the oil you want, drive it normal for 100 miles, then drive it hard for another 100. This should heat it up and get all the gunk that any oil that was in there left behind.
Drain it after some hard driving (WOT to redline) so that the oil is a loose as possible with all the gunk still in it.
Then put the good stuff in again and forget about it for another 60k.
Good luck, tell us what you think of the eneos when you put it in!
You ever see a realtime mixing of lucas oil additive to high quality oils? The oil starts to bubble and break down.
So maybe the OEM fluid is causing the Redline to bubble an
d breakdown faster. The reason why it might feel better with eneos is because you get rid of the OEM/redline mix and go with eneos with a little redline left.
While it may not be a bubbling problem it could jus tbe that mixing the OEM and the redline together ruins everything after 2k.
Go with a Category 4 or 5 synthetic, like eneos or BG syncro shift II. Do a complete proper flush. Without the stupid flush ingredients.
Fill it up with the oil you want, drive it normal for 100 miles, then drive it hard for another 100. This should heat it up and get all the gunk that any oil that was in there left behind.
Drain it after some hard driving (WOT to redline) so that the oil is a loose as possible with all the gunk still in it.
Then put the good stuff in again and forget about it for another 60k.
Good luck, tell us what you think of the eneos when you put it in!
Originally Posted by all4degame
where can I find Eneos 75w90 from rose?
I just did mine with RP 75w90...i didnt go exactly by this diy...i found it was much much easier to just drain it, and refill in the refill plug...lmao...it took about 3 quarts before it started comeing out of the refill hole.
I've been using mt-90 since 5k miles and I'm now at 21.5k miles. As of late within the last 1k miles I have noticed that the gears aren't shifting as smooth as they use to (very notchy and very slight grinds at times in second). I'll be ordering some eneos 75w 90 soon to see if it fixes the issue.







