Anybody know how to get to the bolt that the stock ground wire goes to on the engine block? I swapped my body ground out with 4 guage today and would like to swap the stock engine ground too.

 

I had made my kit about a week ago and just put it on last night. I used grounding wire from a local hardware store, it doesn't look fancy but it works. One recommendation I have is to pick up a wire crimper, it really makes the connections much more sturdy and resistant to pulling out. You can usually get one from a car parts store.
The hardest part for me was the install, so for all the people saying they are just going to buy a kit off of ebay, realize that you aren't saving yourself from the hardest part in my opinion.
Some things I learned and tips for others:
Don't make your wires a bit longer than specified thinking it will make things easier, it is just an extra 1/2" or so of wire you have to manage during the install.
Make sure you use wire with an insulation rated for use in high temperature environments.
If you are using a somewhat inflexible wire like I was, put the connectors on perpendicular to the natural curve of the wire. This made the installation much easier.
If you have to make bends in the wire close to the terminals, give them a tug to make sure they are sturdy.
One thing I did to make sure that the negative terminal of the battery didn't come off was to hold it with my other hand while connecting wires three and four.

As for the benefits I saw, my tach didn't really fluctuate that much before, so I didn't see any difference there. However, I did notice that the shift from 1st to 2nd (I have an automatic) no longer has that tiny bit of lag it had before. My wife noticed that the interior and instrument lights were a bit brighter, and I'd swear that my stereo is now a bit louder at the same volume level. Overall I'm quite happy with the results.

Now for my questions! My wife wondered why they don't do something similar at the factory given all the improvements. My guess is cost in terms of labor for running those cables during assembly, but I really have no idea. My main question is what are the downsides of putting on this grounding kit. Am I putting more stress on any components than before? I don't see why that would be the case, but I really want some reassurance that using this grounding kit isn't going to turn out to wear out some part or do something bad in the long run. Anyone is welcome to respond to these questions, but I'd really like some sort of expert to chime in about whether there are any downsides to doing this mod.

 

I used a hammer to crimp my connections, with the crimper you bought was it hard to crimp 4 gauge wire, or does the tool make it easy.

 

I used 8 guage wire, I never tried using a hammer. I also tried using slip lock pliers. I'm glad I used the crimping tool not only because it makes a tighter connection, but also because it has big rubber padding on the handles

 

There are no downsides to having a grounding kit in your car. If anything, it will help relieve stress on the alternator and other electrical components and stop static shock.

Why it isn't in the car in the first place? Could be the idea of preset maintenence and/or upgrades they have for our car.

 

i just did mine took me 1 1/2 hours cause of the phone and eating... i used 6g wire with thick copper... i too had to use a hammer to crimp the connecters... you can do this kit for less than $10 at homedepot... get 10ft of 6g wire (it is the green thick copper stuff) and then go on the other side of that wall and find the conecters i got 4g connecters and 6g connecters... reason for that is instead of using different connecters on each end... i put two wires into bolt B and bolt C... at D the ground terminal i left the wires bare and used the U design of the ground clamp to hold the wires in and at bolt E i used a connecter.... so therefore i used the 4g to put 2 wires into a connecter

from A-B A bolt has 6g connecter and B bolt has 4g
from B-C B bolt has 4g and C bolt has 4g
from C-D C bolt has 4g and D terminal is bare
from D-E D bolt is bare and E bolt has 6g

i only used 4 conneceters saves money lil more time but saves money

 

got mine put in on this past wednesday.. havent noticed much if any change in the tach(auto) tho lights do seem a bit brighter, and i dont get zapped on the door any more...
tho any one else have issues when re-tightning the bolt on the coil pack?? i was tighting mine up after install and it got to point where i had just the begging of resistance from it getting tight... then 1/4 turn more, no extra presure, it just started free spinning!!?? had to push down pretty hard to get it to "feel" like it was threading itself again and now its snug... at least wiggle wise onthe connecters... bolt still feels pretty easy to turn.... wonder if broke or stripped part of the bolt??

 

sounds like you stripped the threds in the valve cover where it bolts down... i was afraid of mine stripping to but when i get the chance im goin to get lock-tight to hold mine in... but im gonna get new iridium plugs first so i don't have to change them for a while... i feel a big difference i have a manual.. shifting is smoother it doesn't bog and jitter like it used to.... my light are hella brighter... engine idels same put reving from idel point is more on demand... car has more pick up and go... I feel a BIG difference... i also have Ingen CAI and straight through design muffler with custom 2-1/2 inch pipe straight as posible

 

I didn't read the thread but I snapped the bolt for my injectors and I got a new one from Toyota which was $1.50.

 

I'm sorry I didn't post the torque specs before, but the torque specs for the ignition coils is 80 in. lbf.

If you do not have a torque wrench, please be cautious when tightening the bolts. A way to tighten the bolts is to tighten them with a wrench with one finger. Then when it's too tight to tighten with just _one_finger, hold the wrench near the bolt and tighten it until "it's tight." Not "gorilla tight," but tight. Some bolts are just holding plastic pieces down...like the ignition coils.

 

Good Thinking Miko. Just have to be a careful when tightening bolts..but what am I saying. I snaps so many bolts during engine labs

Pictures of the snapped coil bolt...

 

i needa do this asap

 

I fabbed/installed a ground wire kit on cad455's tC on Thursday night. From the left side, to each of the ignition coil bolts, to a head bolt, to the battery, to one of the fuse box bolts. The kit used about 6' of 8 gauge wire...and 14 ring connectors...

 

would that one work on an xb..??
also does it matter how long the wires are??
that way i could hide them around the engine bay... out of site, know what i mean??

 

The cable lengths for an xB kit are identical to the plans shown for the xA on the first page of the thread. I would say it does matter how long the wires are, if you add length I would think it would be more of a pain to try to secure/hide the wires out of the way. Maybe you'd need some sort of wire loom or a way of securing them if you want them hidden away. I'm pretty new to modding though and this was the first under-the-hood mod I've done, so you can weight my comments appropriately

 

Mikochu, I am very impressed with your knowledge and grateful that you share the info to the rest of the Scion Life members. Three things:

--Will/Can this upgrage void the warranty. I purchased a 6yr/75K warranty.
--Which kit(s) would yo suggest?

Thanks for your time and dedication.

 

I appreciate your gratitude.

The ground wires should not void your warranty if you install them correctly. I, too, have the extended warranty (7 years/75k) and my service manager hasn't pointed anything out. I know someone who installed a GroundFusion kit on his tC and I believe he blew a fuse. How he did it, I don't know, but the ground wires only help do away with electrical interference. You should not have any problems.

I offer the user to choose their own ground points, but I cannot be held reponsible if they mess up their car. The ground points I've chosen work on my xA, along with many others' xAs/xBs without a hitch. As long as you follow the directions, it should be a flawless fabrication/install.

As for kits, I really don't suggest you buy a ground wire kit. I suggest you go to your local car audio store, buy the supplies, and build the kit yourself...

 

[quote="mikochu"]Or in my case, My best of friend Miko to make me one

 

ill be trying this when i figure out what color speaker wire i wanna use

 

Yo Mikochu, Afte rmuch thought, I have decided to proceed w/ this modification. It seems easy enough.

Excuse my ignorance, did you purcahse a specific brand of wire. Is this speaker wire?? Where did you purchase your wire from? Did you go to a Radio Shack??

I went to Home Depot and Auto Zone: Neither had wire that appeared to match the style your used. Auto Zone did not carry a wire in that size.

Your advice is greatly appreciated.