I have scoured the web for any information regarding replacing my Clutch and come up empty handed.
I have changed clutches before but I have yet to work on an xB so I am looking to find instructions. Tips would be nice as well.

I'm hoping you guys can help me out. Anything is appreciated. Thanks!

____

 

Unless you have a lift, take it to a shop. The only way to do it is to drop the motor out the bottom. Takes over 4 hours to do that way. If you try to shortcut it, you are looking even longer.

 

The tip is appreciated immensely.

 

you can drop the transmission from underneath the car and you do not have to remove the subframe. But just be sure to have a support on the motor from underneath when you do.

 

I'll be sure to do that.

 

with the exception of machine shop time, took me about 5 hours total

 

Im looking to do this soon. I have 43,000 miles on my box and just waiting for the clutch to give out. hasnt yet. I hope for another year on it at least, but do you really have to drop the motor? or just take it off the mounts and hold it with a jack for a bit?

subframe brace... do you need to take that off too? And if you do... do you need an alignment afterwards?

I am planning on doing this myself and any help would be appreciated. I have searched high and low for a DIY guide online but all I get is crap for the TC.... BTW im not biased at all.... ; )

 

Last Modified: 9-2-2008 5.1 A From: 200507
Model Year: 2006 Model: xB Doc ID: RM000001F0O001X
Title: C50 MANUAL TRANSAXLE: MANUAL TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY: REMOVAL (2006 xB)

REMOVAL
1. DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL


Wait at least 90 seconds after disconnecting the cable from the negative (-) battery terminal to prevent airbag and seat belt pretensioner activation.

2. REMOVE FRONT WHEEL

3. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER LH

4. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER RH

5. DRAIN TRANSAXLE OIL

(a) Remove the filler plug and gasket.

(b) Remove the drain plug and gasket, and drain the manual transaxle oil.

(c) Install a new gasket and the drain plug.

6. REMOVE ENGINE HOOD SUB-ASSEMBLY

7. REMOVE COWL TOP PANEL OUTER

8. REMOVE NO. 2 CYLINDER HEAD COVER

9. REMOVE AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY

10. REMOVE BATTERY


11. DISCONNECT WIRE HARNESS

(a) Remove the bolt and disconnect the wire harness clamp.


12. DISCONNECT CONNECTOR

(a) Disconnect the back-up light switch connector.


13. DISCONNECT CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER TO FLEXIBLE HOSE TUBE

(a) Using SST, disconnect the flexible hose tube from the clutch release cylinder.

SST: 09023-00101


Use a container to catch the fluid.

(b) Remove the 2 bolts and disconnect the flexible hose tube.


14. REMOVE AIR CLEANER BRACKET

(a) Remove the bolt and air cleaner bracket.


15. DISCONNECT TRANSMISSION CONTROL CABLE ASSEMBLY

(a) Remove the 2 clips and 2 washers, and disconnect the 2 cables from the transaxle.

(b) Remove the 2 clips, and disconnect the 2 cables from the control cable bracket.


16. REMOVE FRONT DRIVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY LH

(a) Remove the front drive shaft .

17. REMOVE FRONT DRIVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY RH


Remove the RH side by the same procedures as the LH side.

18. REMOVE FRONT FLOOR PANEL BRACE

19. REMOVE FRONT EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY


20. SUSPEND ENGINE ASSEMBLY

(a) Install the 2 hangers in the correct direction.

(b) Attach the engine chain hoist to the hangers.

Engine hanger:

Parts No. 12281-21010

Bolt:

Parts No. 91642-81025

Torque: 40 N·m (408 kgf·cm, 29 ft·lbf)


Do not attempt to hang the engine by hooking the chain to any other part.


21. REMOVE FRONT SUSPENSION CROSSMEMBER SUB-ASSEMBLY


22. REMOVE STARTER ASSEMBLY

(a) Remove the flywheel housing side cover.

(b) Remove the nut and disconnect the starter wire.

(c) Disconnect the connector.

(d) Remove the 2 bolts and starter.


23. SUPPORT MANUAL TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY

(a) Support the transaxle with a transmission jack.

24. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET LH




(a) Remove the bolt and disconnect the ground cable.


(b) Remove the 2 bolts, and disconnect the engine mounting bracket LH from the engine mounting insulator LH.


(c) Remove the 3 bolts and engine mounting bracket LH from the transaxle.


25. REMOVE REAR ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET

(a) Remove the 4 bolts and rear engine mounting bracket from the transaxle.


26. REMOVE MANUAL TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY

(a) Remove the 7 bolts and transaxle from the engine.



This is the best I can do, I can't get the file to transfer correctly. By the way I didn't write this, it came from toyota.

 

sounds like a tedious install im at 57k and i feel the clutch not grabbing like it used to soo i am also looking to do this soon

 

heres how to drop the suspension crossmember...

http://groups.msn.com/Sorensonbrian/...isswaybar.msnw

 

This is from a post last June regarding tranny removal for an 05 xB:

Decided not to use the engine hoist and got the transmission out with nothing other than a friend and a floor jack...

I gave up on following the Scion repair manual.... Removing the cross member would have been a completely pointless waste of time. I have no idea why Toyota/Scion even suggested doing it that way to begin with.

Basically I just put a jack under the engine and took out the rear and drivers side motor mount bolts.
Then rolled the engine forward (towards the front bumper) on the jack to completely remove the rear motor mount bracket.

after that i lowered the jack a little and had a friend hold the trans.

Then I broke the trans loose a little with a flat head, grabbed it from the top and pulled it straight out.

It was the lightest transmission I have ever dealt with with any car.... I'd say probably 50 lbs or so.

Anyways, so now that that is done with...

It turns out that my release bearing is just fine, but the "clutch release fork support" had broken off... So needless to say this is why my clutch fork was just dangling around inside the transmission the way it was.

Time to drill out what's left of it and call toyota for a replacement part.

Thanks to all.


Here's the link: http://www.lexuslife.com/forums/arch...ine-hooks.html

Have fun. I suspended the engine in an 86 Jetta GLi from a 4X4 across the hood channels with a threaded hook to take up the slack in some chain attached to brackets that VW conveniently put on the engine in the factory, and that worked fine for getting the tranny out on a jack. Doesn't sound like the Xb tranny weights much at all.

Good luck,

MD

 

This is from a post last June regarding tranny removal for an 05 xB:

Decided not to use the engine hoist and got the transmission out with nothing other than a friend and a floor jack...

I gave up on following the Scion repair manual.... Removing the cross member would have been a completely pointless waste of time. I have no idea why Toyota/Scion even suggested doing it that way to begin with.

Basically I just put a jack under the engine and took out the rear and drivers side motor mount bolts.
Then rolled the engine forward (towards the front bumper) on the jack to completely remove the rear motor mount bracket.

after that i lowered the jack a little and had a friend hold the trans.

Then I broke the trans loose a little with a flat head, grabbed it from the top and pulled it straight out.

It was the lightest transmission I have ever dealt with with any car.... I'd say probably 50 lbs or so.

Anyways, so now that that is done with...

It turns out that my release bearing is just fine, but the "clutch release fork support" had broken off... So needless to say this is why my clutch fork was just dangling around inside the transmission the way it was.

Time to drill out what's left of it and call toyota for a replacement part.

Thanks to all.


Here's the link: http://www.lexuslife.com/forums/arch...ine-hooks.html

Have fun. I suspended the engine in an 86 Jetta GLi from a 4X4 across the hood channels with a threaded hook to take up the slack in some chain attached to brackets that VW conveniently put on the engine in the factory, and that worked fine for getting the tranny out on a jack. Doesn't sound like the Xb tranny weights much at all.

Good luck,

MD

 

Back when I worked for Ford/Lincoln Merc, we used to have a support brace that layed across the top of the engine...then chains were extended down to strategic bolt holes in the engines. Possibly a couple of bars layed laterally (padded so they don't scratch anything). Any kinda way to distribute the wt of the engine.