Tools Needed
Open Head Wreches
Socket Set
Jack
Jack Stands
Screw Drivers
Scissors

Supplies Needed
Thread Locker

Optional
Copper Gaskets For Wastegate
^ I really suggest these
Aswell as I suggest using a ssq bov, as tials under low boost tend to cause compressor surge. (I hear ZPI has now switched to SSQ's)

"Your Crew"


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/zpi.jpg

Before we start with the DIY lets get down some basics. I found this information very well worded...
( Yeh im also lazy :P )


Whats a BOV?

Pressure release valve or more commonly known as a "Blow Off Valve", releases turbo pressure when the throttle plate is closed. The turbo is still spinning and still creating pressure. The forced air will hit the throttle plate and return where it came from. When a BOV reads vacuum from the manifold, it either opens a valve, or softens the valve. Which lets the pressure escape from it's opening. In order to work correctly the air must go back into the intake before your turbo because the Air Flow Meter has accounted for it. If not you will have a temporary rich condition, which will upset your idle slightly. Proper tuning can get around this hassle. Most choose to vent to the air, as they love the sweet sound the air makes when it runs to the atmosphere. If the pressure release valve (as some call it) contains a horn or small holes/vents it will cause the air to make a louder/higher pitched sound depending on what is used.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/bov-closed.jpg

The main function of a blow-off valve is to vent excess boost pressure when the throttle butterfly is closed. The lower chamber of the blow-off valve is plumbed into the intercooler front pipe while a small vacuum hose leads from the top of the valve to the inlet plenim on the engine. Inside the blow-off valve is a diaphragm (usually made of rubber) and a spring with a small insert to support the diaphragm where it seats against the valve body.

When the throttle butterfly is open, the boost pressure that enters the upper chamber above the diaphragm, via the small hose from the plenim chamber in the top of the blow-off valve, is equal to the manifold absolute pressure (MAP). Because the pressures are equal and positive, the spring holds the diaphragm on the valve seat and stops the pressurized air from being vented away. When the throttle butterfly is closed, the MAP is in vacuum and the diaphragm lifts away from its seat, allowing the boost pressure to vent to atmosphere


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/bov-open.jpg

When the throttle butterfly is reopened, the pressure in the blow-off valve becomes positive once more, the spring pushes the diaphragm onto its seat reventing boost pressure from being vented away. There are a number of reasons why a blow-off valve is a good idea. When the throttle butterfly is closed, the spooled-up boost pressure cannot escape and subsequently puts tremendous stress on the turbo by stalling the compressor wheel, compressor shaft, and turbine wheel.

The blow-off valve vents his boost pressure allowing the turbo components to spin freely in a vacuum. This prevents significant turbo lag and allows the turbo to spool-up more quickly. Over time, the blow-off valve can help to minimize stress on the turbo components and prolong the turbo's life.


A blow-off valve helps to keep the turbo spinning when the driver lets off the throttle.

Without a CBV, the throttle plate would close, creating a wall to the pressurized air whooshing out of the turbo. The air would crash into the closed plate, then air behind it would pile up, and eventually a wave of pressure would travel back to the turbo. Besides being a shock to the turbo, it would basically cause the turbo to come to a stop.

Then when you wanted to get back on the gas, you'd have to wait for the turbo so spin up all over again. With a CBV, the turbo can free-wheel for a while (like when you're shifting), because the intake pressure is relieved.



Whats a Wastegate?


A turbo by itself does not know how to regulate boost levels. Basically, a turbo system is a positive feedback loop meaning that the engine's exhaust spins the turbo which, forces more air into the intake making more exhaust which, in turn spins the turbo even faster. Without a way to regulate boost levels the turbo would keep producing higher pressures until the engine exploded. This is where the waste gate comes into play. The waste gate attaches onto the turbo header before the turbo. When you begin accelerating exhaust gas pressure builds inside the manifold and is forced through the turbo. This pressure continues to increase as the turbo spins faster (remember the positive feedback loop). When the desired boost level is reached the waste gate opens and vents pressure from inside the manifold so the turbo won't spin any faster.

So how does the waste gate work exactly?
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/Wastegate.gif

Above is a diagram of a typical external waste gate. Inside the waste gate is a diaphragm, which creates a seal, and a spring, which holds the waste gate, closed. Spring rates vary depending on the amount of boost you want to run, typically they are given in a "bar" value for example 1 bar would be 14.7psi. This would mean that in order to open the waste gate you would need to excerpt a greater pressure than the 14.7psi spring holding the waste gate closed. In order for the waste gate to work you must have the compressor reference port hooked up to the compressor side of the turbo, if you don't have this vacuum line attached than the boost pressure will not be limited to the set spring pressure; it will build unlimited boost pressure until your engine is destroyed.

Normally pressure from a spooling turbo pushes against the diaphragm (though the vacuum line attached to the compressor reference port), which in turn pushes against the waste gate spring. When the pressure from the spooling turbo exceeds the spring pressure the waste gate’s plunger opens releasing the excess pressure through the dump tube into the exhaust after the turbo or to open atmosphere. Typically, if you use the waste gate to control your boost levels you will experience a decrease in power and spool times. Why? Although the spring fully opens at its set spring pressure it tends to begin opening before reaching the set spring pressure. This "pre-opening" leaks boost pressure through the dump tube before max boost pressure is reached resulting in a decrease in power mostly toward the top end. This can be corrected by using a boost controller.


Boost controllers serve two functions; increase boost levels beyond the set wastegate spring pressure and reduce the "pre-opening" of the wastegate-controlled boost pressure.

A manual boost controller will allow you to increase boost levels beyond what the wastegate spring is set. How does it work? Below is a diagram of a manual wastegate.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/mbc.gif

In order to run a manual boost controller we need to tee off of the vacuum line which runs from the turbo compressor housing to the compressor reference port. The manual boost controller works using a spring and check ball, by screwing the adjusting screw into the boost controller you put more pressure on the spring which reduces the amount of airflow through the boost controller and into the boost controller port. Less airflow means less pressure will be assisting the spring to keep the waste gate plunger shut. The pressure in the vacuum line going to the compressor reference port will equal the pressure the turbo is producing. A boost controller will allow you to direct some of that pressure to the top of the wastegate diaphragm creating two opposable forces. By adjusting the spring pressure of the boost controller you can vary the amount of boost that the turbo will make before opening the waste gate’s plunger. If you want to run a higher boost level than the waste gate spring allows you will need a boost controller.


The manual boost controller is a very simple device that can help you make more power from your turbo setup. Here are three additional things to keep in mind about waste gates:

Without a line running from the compressor housing to the waste gate’s compressor reference port boost pressures will keep increasing forever. This will quickly destroy your engine!

Run a waste gate as close to the desired boost pressure as possible this will help the boost controller handle the pressure better.

You can't reduce your desired boost pressure lower than the spring rate.




Removing Stock Parts
Removing Header
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=56520

Removing Air Box
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=51411



Turbo Prep
The Turbo Prep is work that can be done inside the house (Yeah my kind of work!)
We are going to connect the following parts.. The Turbo to the Manifold, The Waste gate to the Manifold, The Down pipe to the Turbo and if it calls for it the Waste gate to the Down pipe. (All of this sounds a lot harder then it really is) Then we are going to install the Blow Off Valve onto the Charge pipe. This will save us some time when we go outside to install this bad boy :)

Start off by getting everything unpacked and checked for packing peanuts. Check all pipes, Manifold runners, etc for peanuts as they can find there way inside. Look for any dirt of grime clean as needed.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/1.JPG
First thing first get everything out of the boxes and unpacked and go wow!


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/26.JPG
First we are going to clock the turbo. To do this we need to remove the alignment pin by unscrewing this clamp.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/pin.JPG
Remove the cartridge slowly to expose the pin.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/pinout.JPG
Remove the pin and replace cartridge and clamp


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/2.JPG
Now grab your charge pipe, bov, bov fittings etc


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/3.JPG
Place the BOV'S clamp onto the charge pipe (You may need to strech it out a little)


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/4.JPG
Grab your BOV'S rubber o-ring


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/5.JPG
Attach it to the BOV (Note there is a lip on the flange from the charge pipe make sure the o-ring sits around that lip, If it hangs over when you blow off your going to pinch it and rip it)


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/6.JPG
Tighten down using your Allen key


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/7.JPG
Don't forget to install your vacuum plug, use a washer on the top and bottom of the barb fitting to prevent leaks


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/8.JPG
Now grab your waste gate


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/9.JPG
And install it on the manifold


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/10.JPG
Using the supplied gasket and bolts of course


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/12.JPG
Time to place the turbo onto the manifold so grab your gasket


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/13.JPG
And place it on the manifold


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/14.JPG
My sexy white legs, Tans are sooo over rated...


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/15.JPG
Turbo Installed


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/16.JPG
Now we are going to install the outlet flange for the charge pipe


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/17.JPG
Make sure to use the gasket


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/18.JPG
Now we will install the Down Pipe


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/19.JPG
Using the gasket of course


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/20.JPG
All set now tighten everything up

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/21.JPG
On the top of the turbo housing you will see this red cap remove it and install your barb fitting for the oil feed (Make sure to remove all red caps as they will melt under heat.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/22.JPG
Oil feed fitting


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/23.JPG
Tighten your fitting and your oil supply line down tight you do not want leaks. I don't know if teflon tape would be safe to use here being this area gets hot, Id say don't use anything if you can get away with it


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/24.JPG
Now grab your oil pan and "L" fitting


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/25.JPG
And screw it in tight you may want to use plumbers tape or some other compound on this...




Install

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/27.JPG
Now you can install your oil return line ( I choose the clamp mine down)


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/28.JPG
Now Its time to remove the oil pan (This is the scary part) Toyota does a great job sealing their oil pans witch means its going to be a pita to get off so with that said I had to call in some back up support...


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/torch.JPG
I present to you DJ "BOOSTED DSM" LAPAN

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/torch2.JPG


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/29.JPG
Tada! It took some torch heating a screwdriver and a hammer to get it off. If you do choose to use a screwdriver be careful not to chip anything (This is proof that it will come off with enough time and effort of course lol). Be sure the clean the case from any old sealent. *Note I suggest you remove the S.Pipe as it gets in the way.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/30.JPG
Grab your new pan (with fitting installed) and spread your sealant around (use a good amount) Install the pan using the OEM bolts finger tight! Let this dry for about an hour and a half and then tighten down all the way.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/31.JPG
Now we are going to run our oil feed. We will need to remove our stock oil sensor. But first drop in the whole manifold,turbo,wastegate setup and tighten the head huts down to spec.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/32.JPG
Now place our T fitting in the place of the old sensor, Pluging the sensor back in at the end of the fitting. Place your oil supply line on and tight down.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/33.JPG
Place your coupler on the turbo outlet


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/35.JPG
And place a coupler on the Throttle Body Then Place your charge pipe into both couplers (Have fun with this lol)


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/37.JPG
You may run into this problem witch im currently trying to find a fix for


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/38.JPG
Next we are going to clock the turbo as far back as it can go, while remaining in both couplers. Loosen your snap ring by loosening your 10mm nut and turn the turbo outlet as far back as you can. After that install the filter and Intake pipe *Notice the battery is out for this*


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_turbo_tc/39.JPG
Filter and pipe on!

Check all your fittings and check them again make sure everything is nice and tight. Make sure to run your vac lines to the bov and wastegate, I didnt include how to do it in this DIY being people may want to do their own thing. Please use ZPI's install manual as a reference. Before you start up the car remember to put new oil in and a new filter use only fully synthetic motor oil. Do not start the car without giving the turbo a few oil primes. Do this by removing the EFI fuse in the engine bays fuse box. Get into the car and turn the key as if you were starting the car. Give it around 20 seconds or so to prime. Then replace the fuse and start the car..




Review
ZPI's customer care is good the ladies who answer the phone are very nice (even to me!) I say this because I’m a pain in the butt. I probably called ZPI 50 times during this whole order process :) Kenny is a very cool down to earth type of guy. The only downside to the whole process was the shipping end of things. I paid for the kit 12-30-05 because I was told it was ready to ship never got a tracking number so I called ZPI around 01-04-06 & Kenny said they were waiting on some parts and it would ship that Friday. Friday rolls along and still no tracking number!! ARG! So I call again 01-11-06 and am told there is a delay but Kenny is going to send the kit out to be coated for me out of his pocket (Nice guy) So I Was told it will ship by the end of the week. It is now 01-15-06 and I’m waiting on the tracking number. I called ZPI 01-16-06 and Kenny told me everything was back from the coaters and it was ready to ship! Sweet right!! Well it shipped out the 18th and I got it in on the 23rd. (Sickness)



ZPI’S business end of things is pretty good some things could be improved. I do wish they were a little clearer on when the kits are actually going to ship but I can't put all of the blame on them if they are waiting on the parts from another source who may be delaying their shipping. The Kit itself seemed to be great quality for the money, Welds are clean and solid and nothing looks rushed. I think the pipes weren’t polished that good being I could still see the lettering on them but oh well I’M not one for cosmetics anyways... kit fit together pretty well I had a few things go wrong but corrected them in a short time. Kenny has been helping me out as of now getting the car running right. I didn’t put any washers on the WG or BOV so I think i have a vac leak there. As well as I think my rubber ring is not sitting right in the bov. The car feels strong and pulls pretty damn good if I can say so myself. Turbo spool is fast and kicks you right in the face with a wow! Kit install time total took around 7 hours or so with a buddy and me. We also stopped to eat etc and saved the oil pan for last (Meaning we had to wait an extra hour or so for it to dry) Id say anyone with decent mechanical skills could install this. All and All Id say this is a great kit for the weekend racer and also a great starter kit. I think these turbo’s are good for around 20 psi check with Kenny on that to make sure.


Special Thanks To
Kenny @ www.thescionstore.com

For an Awesome Kit!

Luckyyyy.... :(

i'm not sure about this but the blue fittings that connect the pipe to your throttle body can be trimmed down. i looked at a picture from sciondad's tC and his pipe doesn't go as high as yours does. but i could be wrong.

by the way it's a nice kit and i wish i could afford one from them. maybe i'll have one someday

great job on the DIY tho

looks so fun i want one :( to bad i have to keep the tc n/a and reliable oh well the civic can have one :)

get a tan. u live in fl ffs

those pasty white legs almost got me fired.

good install directions!

Do you have any gauges hooked up? I'd like to see what kind of A/F and EGT's you're seeing. Congrats on getting the kit, and appreciate all your write ups. Do you plan on getting an IC down the road?

A little update my charge pipe is still hitting the firewall and hood causing serious vibrations threw out the car. I also come to find out the Gasket for the WG is blown and is now leaking exhaust all into the engine bay. There is also a vacuum leak somewhere or atleast i think there is because my bov isnt working properly and now my WG is spiking and sometimes creeping to 8-9psi, Under WOT the car is now sputtering almost feeling as if it wants to die... Today has been a turn for the worst, I have alot of stuff to fix ahead of me. Biggest thing will be the WG because of my WG to DP route I have to remove the whole setup off the car and loosen all the bolts. If I don't do this I wont be able to get the flanges to line up right...


Do you have any gauges hooked up? I'd like to see what kind of A/F and EGT's you're seeing. Congrats on getting the kit, and appreciate all your write ups. Do you plan on getting an IC down the road?

To be Honest right now Im just worrying about not blowing the car up and getting it to run right

nice DIY chicken legs.

Nice write up.

As they mentioned in the Dezod post by Paul and Kenny - the tial wastegates are known for blowing. You could either run no gasket - or I think ZPI has a copper gasket replacement on their site for cheap.

Nice write up.

As they mentioned in the Dezod post by Paul and Kenny - the tial wastegates are known for blowing. You could either run no gasket - or I think ZPI has a copper gasket replacement on their site for cheap.

Yeh Im going to suggest that ZPI includes the copper gasket in their kit, Because mine lasted a day or two and now I have to take everything out of the car and take everything apart to get at the gasket... Witch is going to be a pita...

Have you thought about no gasket? I've heard you can run that w/out issues. This is what I'm going to try so I don't have to uninstall a few days later

It's worth trying without the gasket. It's only exhaust so if it leaks a little no harm done then you just get the gasket anyway. I drove the car home from the shop with snapped bolt on the wastegate (so only 1 bolt was holding it on) and the car was fine. It was still holding until I dismantled the car...

Have you thought about no gasket? I've heard you can run that w/out issues. This is what I'm going to try so I don't have to uninstall a few days later

Yes that was my first choice but I didnt know how ZPI would of liked that in their review so I didn't do it. Im going to try to losen up the WG and break the gasket out so I dont have to remove everything. I need to locate this vac leak because the car is spiking to around 9 psi witch causes it to sputter because of the stock injectors. I also need to get this charge pipe fixed so its not hitting the firewall. Once these two things are fixed I think the car should run good again, I recently gapped the plugs and notice a better idle. Im going to put a step colder iridium plug in to see if that helps anymore.

Probably best not to drive it hard to avoid those boost spikes while you are workin out these kinks... as i'm sure you're probably aware.. just lookin out so your car doesn't get messed up :P Trouble shooting vacuum leaks seems tricky.. hope you get it hammered out though.

p.s. for some reason the turbo looks alot smaller than i thought.. used to looking at T-88's on supras haha

What part of florida are you in Kaeon?

So just out of curiousity why did this happen? Bad install? or what?

vaccum leak or gasket?

Gaskets seem to be an issue w/ the Tials. Vaccum leak - could be various reason including install

If tials are having such known issues, why are people using them? Cost?

The unit itself is pretty darn sweet. Gasket, ehhhh

Because I was going to get the kit in sept and install and thinking maybe the sc is an easier way to go. Any intake on that anyone?

I think the turbo install would be much simpler. But there are many benefits whichever you choose.

To be honest I would "prefer" the turbo a lot more. just gettign scared with everyone having problems.

Its all part of the aftermarket fun!

well no i mean i understand that with a turbo that there is tuning needed to work out some kinks liek idling and stuff, but if the kit has problems like pipes rubbing and gaskets blowing id rather get sc or wait for somethign else or until it gets the kinks wokred out of it. Or is it all just in the install?

SWEEEEET write up.


On the charge pipe, I ended up removing about 1.5" off the end that goes to the throttle body. My front strut bar was in the way. It dropped it to a perfect fit. Hack saw worked just fine. Make sure you clean any shavings if you do this.

Tial wastegate gaskets SUCK. they all blow out within days. Excellent wastegate and BOV...but the gaskets are cheap. Do a google and you will laugh. Go copper or you can go bare.

I would consider a vacuum block. Maybe Kenny can throw one your way for the nice pics and writup. :lalala: Using the plastic "T"'s is ok, but leaks are easier to happen with them. It took a few hunts myself to find a leak that drove me nuts. Crushed T from clamp. Rechecking all the couplers to make sure they didn't loosen up on ya is also a good idea.

You will also notice, if you launch it hard, your engine moves about 10 inches and this can hit the charge pipe to the firewall. Stiffy time :lalala: :rofl:

well no i mean i understand that with a turbo that there is tuning needed to work out some kinks liek idling and stuff, but if the kit has problems like pipes rubbing and gaskets blowing id rather get sc or wait for somethign else or until it gets the kinks wokred out of it. Or is it all just in the install?

Well, the gasket issue is just a bizzare issue with Tial. Not sure why. Top of the line products and expensive as heck, but their gasket department needs some help...bad

The charge pipe hitting the firewall....well this engine moves like 10 inches under launch. That needs to be brought under control. Some good torque going now. I lowered mine because I have a strut bar.

ic, would motor mounts help the issue with the firewall and the pipe?

You lowered you pipe that you trimmed right Sciondad?
That sentence almost made me think you lowered your engine.

Unless i am still reading it wrong.

Very nice write up! lets see some vids and pics of your gauges man!!

awesome right up

Oh yeah, on the vaccum T, how do you block the ports you don't use?

Oh yeah, on the vaccum T, how do you block the ports you don't use?
you could use a rubber cap

I know it seems stupid - you have an example / pic - I need to pick a couple up

I know it seems stupid - you have an example / pic - I need to pick a couple up

Here is one on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Golden-Eagle-Vacuum-Manifold-Polished-Aluminum_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36474QQitemZ8031146558QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V


Also unlimited77...yeah, I lowered the pipe down.

Right, Im getting the black one. I'm looking for the rubber caps or whatever you use to block unused ports

Right, Im getting the black one. I'm looking for the rubber caps or whatever you use to block unused ports

Ace is the place...

http://www.hosetechniques.com/catalog_products.tpl?cart=1099556577766787&category=Accessories

they have various sizes and different T fittings if you dont feel safe capping it

well no i mean i understand that with a turbo that there is tuning needed to work out some kinks liek idling and stuff, but if the kit has problems like pipes rubbing and gaskets blowing id rather get sc or wait for somethign else or until it gets the kinks wokred out of it. Or is it all just in the install?

Well, the gasket issue is just a bizzare issue with Tial. Not sure why. Top of the line products and expensive as heck, but their gasket department needs some help...bad

The charge pipe hitting the firewall....well this engine moves like 10 inches under launch. That needs to be brought under control. Some good torque going now. I lowered mine because I have a strut bar.

Thats funny because I also shortened my charge pipe to clear, swaped out the tial gaskets (POS) and used vacuum manifold. Great minds think alike...lol

I do remember that was another thing I really didnt' like - having to not use a strut bar, or having to cut engine cover to keep the strut bar, and then cutting the pipe to do so.
Sorry to hear about the WG n such..

ouch :doh:

ouch :doh:

Your telling me!, I think Im getting this bolt to come out ever so slightly. I may need to have this rethreaded. (Im sure I will), Kenny is going to send me a new outlet flange to see if it helps the charge pipe problem. Im going to have to order a Copper Gasket because using no gasket on the manifold side doesnt seem to work to well. I will keep you guys updated on everything that is going on.


PS. ZPI has been helping me out alot, So don't think Im bashing them or the kit, Im just in a very frustrated mood right now.

How did that break off? I mean, the down pipe has a flange welded on to the end of it that mates up to the WG. It's just holes and the bolt threads into the WG. I took mine off and on several times as I had to replace the Tial gaskets with copper. Everything lined up fine with the flange.


Do the holes on the flange line up?

As for the charge pipe, The charge pipe side of the turbo clocking, you can rotate that towards the front of the car and it will bring the charge pipe further away from the firewall.

If it's the height, remove about 1" of the pipe. Also, with the coupler on, does the charge pipe meet up with the throttle plate, or is there space within the coupler from charge pipe to throttle plate?

Paul,

I am sorry to hear about the issues that you are having. Like w talked about last night I believe the turbo outlet flange was made a little to tall which in turn is changing the angle of the pipe and making it interfere with the fire wall. Per our conversation last night I had planned on making this for you on Monday when I return to the shop. I believe this is the cause of the angle being off etc… You should not have to cut the charge pipe as they are all made the same and the only other issue thus far has been that with the strut bars. The out let pipe is still made by hand and although they are made in a jig they are kind of hard to do with there small size and only being bolted to one end. I think a ½ will solve all your problems.

As far as the bolt breaking the Tial bolts are pretty strong you must have got one cross threaded and that coupled with the heat weakened it then when you tried to remove it “snap”

I would suggest taking it to a local machine shop as I am sure they could remove that for you and re tap it. You may have to get a new bolt, just make sure it is a allen head.

Tial gaskets suck….we do have copper ones available in our online store…but two machined surfaces can go with out a gasket without failure. This is probably a better choice than the less than par gaskets that Tial includes in there Waste gates.

Well we look forward to seeing this project along….As always we recommend that our customers allow due time for the install as inevitable issue due arise…kind of the nature of the beast.

-Kenny

ouch :doh:

Your telling me!, I think Im getting this bolt to come out ever so slightly. I may need to have this rethreaded. (Im sure I will), Kenny is going to send me a new outlet flange to see if it helps the charge pipe problem. Im going to have to order a Copper Gasket because using no gasket on the manifold side doesnt seem to work to well. I will keep you guys updated on everything that is going on.


PS. ZPI has been helping me out alot, So don't think Im bashing them or the kit, Im just in a very frustrated mood right now.

Yeah, everyone completely understands the frustration. It will come together for you. I talked to Keisha a few minutes ago. I know they are getting the copper gaskets as this Tial thing is just way over the top. Mine ran about an hour before both gaskets blew. :tap:

How did that break off? I mean, the down pipe has a flange welded on to the end of it that mates up to the WG. It's just holes and the bolt threads into the WG. I took mine off and on several times as I had to replace the Tial gaskets with copper. Everything lined up fine with the flange.


Do the holes on the flange line up?

As for the charge pipe, The charge pipe side of the turbo clocking, you can rotate that towards the front of the car and it will bring the charge pipe further away from the firewall.

If it's the height, remove about 1" of the pipe. Also, with the coupler on, does the charge pipe meet up with the throttle plate, or is there space within the coupler from charge pipe to throttle plate?

Well being my WG is routed to the DP its a pita to get on or off, No the holes really don't line up all that well. As for the Charge pipe its the height, Im going to try this new outlet kenny is sending out. But I think I may have to cut that 1" off. We will see... As for the charge pipe and TB lets jusy say if they where any closer they would be inside of eachother :rofl:

As kenny said allow enough time to install/test it would be best to have a spare car handy. If you don't you may wind up like me, I had to take off work today and probably tomorrow because I can't drive the car. And I have no other cars to drive.

This is my current problem
http://www.palmbaystreetracing.com/images//100_3417.jpg
This is how it lines up, this is why its a pita to get tight. Im going to try to use smaller bolts that go threw the holes and nuts on the other end as it should give it more "play" room.

My pipe did actualy fit fine at its original length. I just wanted it to clear the strut bar. I did blow wastegate gasket twice so I reordered ones with steel rings around them. I also broke wastegate bolts inside the manifold. Turns out they were too long and once you put them in, thread gets damaged on the end of the bolt. This is the reason you can't take them out. This is a problem with Tial, not ZPI though.

Would you recommend stainless or copper aftermarket gaskets??? ZPI has copper that is $20, but I found stainless for $12. Any suggestions?

Would you recommend stainless or copper aftermarket gaskets??? ZPI has copper that is $20, but I found stainless for $12. Any suggestions?

I don't know if 1 is better than the others. I know the copper one is gauranteed to never fail and the whole gasket is copper. The steel ones I have seen in the past are steel rings within a regular gasket.

http://www.zeropointindustries.net/store/product_info.php?products_id=151&osCsid=38a78a75d86dbc28ae821e4e0d9bacc9

or

http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=5261&

Ooooh. I hope this is worked out now before my kit is sent. (Since it hasn't been yet.)

So I'm gathering that I won't be able to keep my DC strut tower bar on??

If you want to do the strut bar, I think you have to do what scion dad, etc did. There didn't seem to be a plan to change it when I had my order placed.

Copper vs Stainless - now that is the question! dun dun dun

Basically just have to work it huh. Hmm. It's the DC dual carbon strut tower bar.

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/images/dc-tccarbon.jpg

Hopefully not because that'll be about $450 worth of stuff (so far) that I'll have to remove in order to accomodate this kit. (I've been told the FMIC won't fit with the foglight option on :( )

As for the gasket... if you can get away with none, I don't see why one wouldn't just do that? Hehe - or use the same stuff that's used for the oil pan on these car! :silly:

^^I don't think there is ANY turbo manufacture that can fit an FMIC behind the factory fogs. You will need to relocate the fogs somewhere else with any FMIC out there.

im preety sure if your getting a stage 1 that the pipe will fit with your strut bar becuase it goes down and the stage 0 goes straight to the turbo so it comes up a little more. If you shave a inch or so it will get rid of the rubbing but you stlil wont be able to fit a strut bar and it may or may not hit the engine cover depending how much you cut off.

Another little update I just ordered the copper gaskets so we will see how well those work. I got the bolt out by drilling it out the best I could, There was no way I was going to twist it out. Now I need to get the hole rethreaded, Kenny says he can do this for me so I will have to send it back to ZPI. I hope I can find the right allen head bolt for it once its rethreaded and I hope what happened last time doesnt happen again. I really wish I would of gotten the wastegate dumped. That is whats causing the problem because only one side of the flange will really line up. If I didn't have the WG dump going into the DP the bolt never would of stripped. So I guess its my own fault for being picky


or use the same stuff that's used for the oil pan on these car! :silly:

Use a torch to get off the oil pan easy, we got it off in like 2 mins with a torch... We do it to Honda's all the time.

I just wish they'd send mine. Maaaan. It's taking a loooong time. However, I do hope they take these things into consideration, since it's still there.

Ooooh. I hope this is worked out now before my kit is sent. (Since it hasn't been yet.)


I hope so too, waiting for my kit too. Sux cause I leave for the desert next week till march, so all the waiting and impatience was for nothing cause I'll be gone by the time my kit finally gets in. All these problems people are having, especially kaeon really has me worried regardless of whether this kit is installed professionally or not. I've been waiting since november and once I get back from the desert I'll have to decide whether I wannna deal with all these problems after getting the kit installed or maybe just end up trying to sell my kit here on scionlife. Well at least I'll be getting 2 months of tax free and hazard duty pay. Maybe I'll just end up buying a fmic, then the charge pipe issue will cease to exist. Still worried about the wastegate though. Well, we'll see. Peace guys. Hope your luck changes Kaeon.

I just wish they'd send mine. Maaaan. It's taking a loooong time. However, I do hope they take these things into consideration, since it's still there.

I hear you man, I think we've both been waiting about the same amount of time. :rofl:

Maybe I'll just end up buying a fmic, then the charge pipe issue will cease to exist. Still worried about the wastegate though. Well, we'll see. Peace guys. Hope your luck changes Kaeon.

Correct if you get the FMIC you shouldnt have the charge pipe problem. Also if you dont get the WG Tube routed back into the DP you shouldnt have a problem there either. Like I said I guess I caused my own problem by getting that done, And Im regreting it right now. Thanks for the kind words I hope my luck changes to, Im using my grandma's car right now as she passed away a few weeks ago and left it to my dad. So atleast I have a way to get around for now.

Thanks for the tip on the torching the oil pan. Definitely going to try that out - I don't want to f up the pan w/ dents/scratches.

Yeah, I'm definitely getting this kit installed professionally, "if" I decide to keep it when I get back. There's just too many problems popping up for me to feel entirely comfortable doing it even with an experienced friend.

dang, i just read 3 pages of frustration. Do you even think its worth the money after all this ? what happend to bolt ons...

dang, i just read 3 pages of frustration. Do you even think its worth the money after all this ? what happend to bolt ons...

The power is there and for the 2 days I had it I loved it. :love: I just think being I had some custom work done, That it kinda messed up ZPI's normal flow of things. If I could turn back time I would of just had the Wastegate dumped to a tube, and I would of never of had that bolt strip on me. And I of went with a Intercooler if I did I would of not had the charge pipe problem. But yes I guess when the car gets running right it will be worth the money. Like I said to ZPI out of all people and during a review none the less, this had to happen to me, But hopefully it was just one of those goof ups. Ive seen alot of people with the zpi kit who are happy. So I wouldnt let this stop you from buying. ZPI has very good customer care, Kenny is going to fix my wastegate for me he told me just to send it back to him so he can rethread it. So atleast they are trying to help me out.

if you clock the turbo just right, you can avoid the hitting of charge pipe to firewall. i dont know how i got so lucky, but when i clocked my turbo the second time, i aligned it just right where theres like 1/4 inch of space between the two. now theres no rubbing noise whatsoever...but thats the least of MY worries.


We have come to the conclusion the outlet flange is to long. Because If I clock my turbo back anymore it will be inside the fans lol, Kenny is sending me a new flange like tuesday or something like that. That should help if not I will just cut a little bit off the TB end...

oh my bad. could you not cut the flange?

Anyone got a diff BOV on the stage 0?

dood good install procedure make sure all ur pipes r in ur couplers reall good ...if not it will let it hit the cowl ....n what ive seen no gasket sems to work best ..cuz of all the heat ..as well as everyone knows things tend to warp n if u dont have it reall good n tight i can blow them ...well man wish ya the best of luck gettin it runnin right ...now it takes a few miles for the ecm to change for the turbo thats on it ...wish ya the best ...rukus[/quote]

yeah nice

i was wondering what happened to the first O2 sensor that was connected to the header? is there a place in the turbo for it to be plugged in or what? if there isn't should you be getting a cell because of an unplugged O2 sensor?

i was wondering what happened to the first O2 sensor that was connected to the header? is there a place in the turbo for it to be plugged in or what? if there isn't should you be getting a cell because of an unplugged O2 sensor?

it gets plugged into the new downpipe that youre given with the kit. but be careful not to bang it while removing, you wouldnt want to do that. :eyebrow:

Doesn't the stage 0 kit get a CEL anyway?

Doesn't the stage 0 kit get a CEL anyway?

The stage 0 kit gets the same CEL as if you added a header. The antifouler mod I did when I installed the Megan header last February of 05, worked fine to prevent a CEL on the stage 0 install.

No CEL at all.

hmmm
so then
how much money do i need to stage 1 a auto??
even if i install it all myself....
how much do i need to spend on all the parts, (extra gaskets and so on)

p.s. for some reason the turbo looks alot smaller than i thought.. used to looking at T-88's on supras haha

What part of florida are you in Kaeon?

Im sorry I totally missed this post! Im from Central FLA, In the Melbourne Area.

ugh i get to attempt this thursday....were gonna have 3 people working on it 1 to get the oil pan off and 2 to work on the engine its coming pre asslymbed and think it has hoses and everything already so hopeuflly wont take us too long. We will get the oil pan/header/battery taken off wendesday. Turbo comes in thursday we will start working on it as soon as it comes if not at 615. Kaeon I im'd you on aim so if you dont mind me askin you questions as we do it my aim was twcpheranndez but itll probably be peteyd tC at home. ScionDad has been a HUGE help on on me gathering this up and what not. So big thanks to him!

We just got done w/ the oil pan part. We just used a pick tool and a small screw driver and went around the side. wasn't bad at all

We just got done w/ the oil pan part. We just used a pick tool and a small screw driver and went around the side. wasn't bad at all

Glad to hear it came off for you!!,

Just a little update for those who are following, I’m still waiting for my gaskets I ordered on the 27th to be shipped. I was told last Thursday they would be over-nighted to me but from what I hear the copper cutter crapped out or something, None the less when they arrive (If they do) I will have been waiting on them for 2 weeks, I wish I could post more on how the kit works for you guys, But I can't do that if the car isn’t running... Im out of a car right now because the one I was using my dad needs, I wish someone from zpi would of called me to let me know they wouldn’t be in on time, That way I could of maybe ordered from another company. But now being Monday Night even if I did order them I wouldn’t get them till Thursday or Friday, So I’m pretty much screwed for now, this is turning out horrible for me. I hope you guys have better luck with your Installs/Service then I have...

~ Kaeon

Sounds like my day so far!!! Pretty frustrated and so is my bro. Had to run to the store about 4 times so far to pick up misc nuts, bolts, clamps, tee's, bits, etc.

Right now everything is done, except I am short 1 coupler. So, I had a spare 2.5" that I cut in two but that didn't work. So, I'm going to see if a local shop can get me SOMETHING so I can get the car driveable - and then I'll order the rest of th items I need.

But, its looking good so far to spite all the friggin bumps

Just one question. Why is everyone running to the store to install more parts when they do your own install. Is it because you did the install wrong or is it because the kit is icomplete?

i would like to know too^^^^^

Sounds like my day so far!!! Pretty frustrated and so is my bro. Had to run to the store about 4 times so far to pick up misc nuts, bolts, clamps, tee's, bits, etc.

Right now everything is done, except I am short 1 coupler. So, I had a spare 2.5" that I cut in two but that didn't work. So, I'm going to see if a local shop can get me SOMETHING so I can get the car driveable - and then I'll order the rest of th items I need.

But, its looking good so far to spite all the friggin bumps
Are you talking about your Dezod turbo, or are you helping someone with their zpi stage 0 install?

Talking about my kit, feel free to IM or PM for more info. I'll have a full write up as soon as its up and running. HOpefully tomorrow - we'll see!

Just one question. Why is everyone running to the store to install more parts when they do your own install. Is it because you did the install wrong or is it because the kit is icomplete?

after 4 pages i think its

because the kit is icomplete?

^^hmm. You know not to bash zpi or anything seeing as to how everyone loves them and I do appreciate the vast amount of performance parts that they have made for our car but it just seems like there is a lot of things wrong with the stage 0. Pipes rubbing, gaskets blowing off even when installed correctly. people running to the store to get more parts. I mean what is going on with the stage 0?

Their other products do seem to be top notch though, and their service is undeniably great however why dont they just fix the stage 0 if indeed it is the kits problem not the cause of bad instalations.

READ THIS NOW (BECAUSE KAEON SAYS SO :P )

Ok this topic has grown way to fast and alot of comments people are making are incorrect, I think everyone is misunderstanding alot of things so let me clear them up right now. The kit comes COMPLETE (Yes they forgot a barb fitting or two but sent it out asap). The parts zpi uses are top notch, the welds are damn near perfect (If not perfect), Even Kenny's custom work on my downpipe is hella sick (Some of the nicest welds Ive seen), Alot of my friends have commented on how nice the downpipe is. The only problem zpi has is their customer care/shipping methods, and that is pretty much it. I can understand their deliema as they are a smaller business with such high demands right now. Being everything in the zpi kit is done by hand and inspected by Kenny this slows down their process of things. If ZPI gets a bigger warehouse with more staff, and more inventory. Id say these other turbo companys better step up their game because ZPI may just take over the tc turbo world!

As for the gaskets, those ARE NOT made by ZPI they come with your Wastegate from Tial, however I did suggest ZPI needs to include the copper gaskets in their kit being as they know the Tial gaskets blow easy. I think alot of this misunderstanding of things has to do with users comments maybe even some of my own, Yes Im having alot of problems but some of my problems are things like gaskets and couplers etc, Things ZPI doesnt make. So yes they should check these things but you can't place all the blaim on them as they didnt make these parts.


The only thing in my kit I sorta do blaim on ZPI is the fitment of the wastegate flanges. A buddy of mine had a few gaskets laying around so I tried to use those and the same thing happened I almost stripped the bolt inside of the flange, Becausae it doesnt line up the way it should. When ZPI sent me my kit, they sent me two manifolds by mistake. I tried the first one it didnt line up at all. The 2nd one (The one im using now) seemed to line up a little better but not good enough. As you can tell from the photo... I asked for a new downpipe and Kenny said to send mine back and he will send me one without the wg dump tube in it for free so that makes me very happy! So im going to have to the wastegate dump to atmosphere under the car. witch I hear adds around 20 hp sweet ! :clap:

The only problem zpi has is their customer care/shipping methods, and that is pretty much it. I can understand their deliema as they are a smaller business with such high demands right now. Being everything in the zpi kit is done by hand and inspected by Kenny this slows down their process of things. If ZPI gets a bigger warehouse with more staff, and more inventory.

Kaeon, I agree with you 100% on this specific "problem," because I really do think it is a big problem with zpi. Their customer support/ product quality seems to be top notch, but the wait time is just horrible. I've been waiting on my stage 0 since Nov. 7th. Even before I ordered my kit i asked how long it would take and I was told 3 to 4 weeks. All that i've been hearing for the last month is "it should be done next week, or we should be shipping your kit hopefully the end of this week beginning of next week." That line only works so long until people just stop believing what you say. Sorry to rant about my situation, but it somewhat ties into what you said about zpi's obvious problem with shipping.

Ok i attempt installing the stage 0 tomorrow with the help of this guide/scion dad/kaeon and my crew my goal is to have it installed and running in 4 hrs. I am taking off the stock exhuast manifold/oil pan/exhuast/s pipe/battery tonight. so wish me luck i will post pics once done!

Hi guys its nice to hear that everybody its getting their turbo kit
but i was wondering i went to zp1racing web page and they give you instruction on how to install the turbo kit wich its a great thing
I had an eclipse 4cyl with the turbo kit on it and now i own a 05 scion tc and i was thinking about reused the same turbocharger about the turbo manifold i will get the flange from zp1racing and i can get my friend to make one for me
intercooler and everything else i have you know piping flanges wastegate BOV dowpipe dumb tube pretty much the whole hardware for it but i was thinking about the MAF SENSOR i read on zp1racing web page about recalibrate it cause but of course they dont want to give that information to people who hasn't bought the kit from them
Now my question is for those who has the turbokit on their hands is it hard to recalibrate it
any information about this will be much apreciated it
:bow: :pray:

I'm not sure about recalibration - but my car stuttered on first start up and then finally ironed itself out after a few seconds.

Yo Kaeon,

I'm glad you just posted all that, because I was starting to have doubts.

Pleeeeeeeeeease ZPI pleeeeeeeeeease ship soon! Oh and I'd be extra special happy if you sent the whole stage 1 getup. 8)

ok round one...oil pan 1 us 0 :(......we cant get it out for the life of us were going to try the pick/hammer/screwdriver method tomorrow

Turbos are great,..... I myself like them better then superchargers,but a bad kit in a large group like this is a reason people dont get the turbo kits and feel turbos are bad

Is there anyone in your area with a turbo kit that can help?....someone farther into the timeline with there turbo kit....You need to find someone who has there car running GOOD and do what they say....maybe someone who goes to moroso park (great place ) down bye you.

also,when my car sputtered at the top of the track
(4000 pounds 10.4 e.t.@134mph) ........it was a bad set of spark plug wires,not the plug gap.

When you get it done,you might blow off the blue hoses(your pictures) between the intake pipes under boost......if you have cheap hose clamps ..head to the plumbing section of home depot and get nice chrome clamps that tighten down with a ratchet,you can crush the tube if your not carefull....VERY strong clamps.

I have seen a bad computer cause a sputter also,caused by aftermarket injecters,they hurt the computer but didnt kill it,causing a sputter.

And someone said a pyrometer....correct,they are god at the racetrack,the only way to know if your rich or lean when racing.start out with a rich fuel setting on a adjustable fuel regulater,then make a pass down the track,if the exhaust temp. is only 800 degrees lean it out untill you see1400 degrees at the end of the 1/4 mile pass.

Just trying to help out,sorry for the book

Have a good weekend

take a look at my buick if you like on my website [/url]www.tomscionxa.7h.com

shoulda waited for greddy to come out w a kit lol.....i have heard way to many probs w this kit being short parts, etc.....o well...when ZPI grows w the demand, they will get better :)

Ok kaeon after 10 hours of total labor...and cutting into my body kit so the fmic piping would fit I have a turbo...spools great....idling is very good....non issues as of yet although it is rally restricted right now cause im running stock exhaust.

Ok kaeon after 10 hours of total labor...and cutting into my body kit so the fmic piping would fit I have a turbo...spools great....idling is very good....non issues as of yet although it is rally restricted right now cause im running stock exhaust.

Glad to hear your car is running! As soon as I get my downpipe I will be up and running too! should be like next week hopefuly!

Arg just got word that ZPI wont have any downpipes till the end of next week! this really really sucks big time, My car has been ghetto rigged way to long and now its going to be another 3 weeks or so before I get the downpipe!

Surprise Surprise :crazy:

Surprise Surprise :crazy:

I know what that's all about. :rofl:

New Update,

I needed the car done asap so ZPI took off a downpipe from one of their own cars to send to me! :clap:

^they definitly prove time and time again on making things right even when they dont have to. Def going with this kit in sept. Plus how many other companies are so invloved with you by helping with install and doing things extra I can really only think of dezod in term of turbo kits and such involvement.

ok all i need to do is tune and the car will be done emanage on the way as is zpi harness and zpi polyureahtane motor mounts(whenever those ship)

hehe waiting for the mounts too :). Trying to little by litte get things that would get my car better for the turbo like mounts exhaust gauges

New Update,

I needed the car done asap so ZPI took off a downpipe from one of their own cars to send to me! :clap:

:shock:

Well, I guess I'm not THAT shocked. Wow.

New Update,

I needed the car done asap so ZPI took off a downpipe from one of their own cars to send to me! :clap:

I don't know what to make of ZPI. Their turbo's post some of the best numbers going. ZPI Good. Their distrubution system reeks of incompetence. ZPI Not Good. The seem to give great phone support to customers in need. ZPI Good. How much phone support should customers need for a "bolt on kit." ZPI Not Good.

All that crap aside-My hat's off to you for this one. :bow: :clap: :bow:

How much phone support should customers need for a "bolt on kit."

? :eyebrow:

How much phone support should customers need for a "bolt on kit."

? :eyebrow:

tHaNX 4 DA heAdS Upp EYE GeSSS YOr ehh EnGalISh TEchRRRR

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

actually, i was agreeing with you...

the ? mark was for me..lol..i didnt notice u didnt put one haha...i reiterate then

How much phone support should customers need for a "bolt on kit."

x2 ;)

get a tan. u live in fl ffs

those pasty white legs almost got me fired.

:lol: :bow:

New Update,

I needed the car done asap so ZPI took off a downpipe from one of their own cars to send to me! :clap:

:shock:

Well, I guess I'm not THAT shocked. Wow.


Surprise surprise.. :P

Ok now im having some major problems. Im assuming the gaskets are blown :(. The car is struggaling and dying everyonce in awhile and lettin out some nasty fumes, any ideas?

Ok now im having some major problems. Im assuming the gaskets are blown :(. The car is struggaling and dying everyonce in awhile and lettin out some nasty fumes, any ideas?

What gaskets are you talking about?

What fumes are you talking about?

Also, did you get the vacuum lines repaired? That will cause idle issues.

Also, did you check all the couplers for the FMIC to the throttle body.

Ok now im having some major problems. Im assuming the gaskets are blown :(. The car is struggaling and dying everyonce in awhile and lettin out some nasty fumes, any ideas?


Sounds like you require ScionDad expertise, as he has done Stage 0 Auto install too. ScionDad..Chime in sir. Or PM him.

Have you upgraded your spark plugs to a colder set? Heard that helps a bit with idle and what not. Denso IK22 seems to be the remedy of choice.

The car idles fine. It rides rough. Im assuming its the gaskets cause they have been on there for so long and I dont think they have ever been changed out. But im no sure how to descrpie the fumes but they are there. Yes im running ones step colder plugs.

lol peteyd. shoulda listened to munch and what he said about the turbo you have. :rofl: :rofl:

lol peteyd. shoulda listened to munch and what he said about the turbo you have. :rofl: :rofl:
wtf does that mean?? if you dont have something usefule post dont post anything at all!!

lol peteyd. shoulda listened to munch and what he said about the turbo you have. :rofl: :rofl:

Stop trolling

I PM'ed ya. Odds are, your Tial gaskets are gone...but that's a whole other story. Top shelf parts, 3rd world gaskets.

After some road time, you need to recheck all your FMIC connections, intake couplers, vacuum line conenctions, etc, esp the throttle body coupler. If you don't have an engine damper, you can knock that coupler off easy, but it looks on.

I've seen vacuum lines with holes rubbed in them because they were laying on some braided lines, plastic "T" leaking or crushed, BOV gasket not on right, blown waste gate gaskets and the list goes on. I know...cause I've done them all :rofl:

I'm sure Kenny might be able to help in more detail. He knows the history of that setup. It is a little different than the kits now...yours actually has more power.

As for rimjob2.....he trolls like a few others on here. Pay him/them no attention.

As for rimjob2.....

rimjob :rofl: :rofl: good 1 dad

^^+1 :rofl:

^^^ :rofl: :relief:

Well I got the car pretty much working, everything is pretty much done. Altough the charge pipe is still hitting the firewall. Im going to try these new couplers Kenny sent me! The car stalled out a ____ load on the first test drive, It mellowed out after a while... My bov is still causing compressor surge, just because tial bovs suck!! lol but other then that the car sounds nasty open wg and it pulls hard!!!

Well I got the car pretty much working, everything is pretty much done. Altough the charge pipe is still hitting the firewall. Im going to try these new couplers Kenny sent me! The car stalled out a poop load on the first test drive, It mellowed out after a while... My bov is still causing compressor surge, just because tial bovs suck!! lol but other then that the car sounds nasty open wg and it pulls hard!!!

My gaskets come in today...im hoping that fixes my issue and I can go back driving my car again! not driving my girls saturn or hitching a ride. Kenny did me good he sent me the gaskets free and 2 dayed at not cost to me with my pnp harness. So tonight ill install the new gasket and warp all the piping and hope the new gaskets fix the issue.

Did the blown gasket just cause a loss of power?

Did the blown gasket just cause a loss of power?

Yeh it could cause some power loss, Also before I was running the wg into the downpipe witch was restricking the flow. Now with the open WG dump it seems to haul a little more ___ lol, Its the throw you back in your seat type pull now... I need a SSQ bov as Tials suck, that should stop the stalling, The car is stalling around every corner even with colder plugs and proper gapping... DAMN YOU TIAL!

You can't just swap those 2 can ya. that sucks!

You can't just swap those 2 can ya. that sucks!


Well you can but its ghetto we did it on my buddys civic and it seems all ghetto and ____...

wont the Tial and HKS BOV have a diff mounting flange? u wont need to get a new BOV flange welded on your charge piping? i know i would have to on my civic if i switched from my Greddy Type S bov....

and i didnt know that the BOV could cause stalling, me thinks its a whole other issue Kaeon...just an FYI man, i wanna see sum success here!!!!'

GL bro

It'd fit in w/ my bumper fitment!

wont the Tial and HKS BOV have a diff mounting flange? u wont need to get a new BOV flange welded on your charge piping? i know i would have to on my civic if i switched from my Greddy Type S bov....


Well you can but its ghetto we did it on my buddys civic and it seems all ghetto and poop...

The SSQ and tial flangs are very close if you have a tial "clamp" you can make a SSQ work on a Tial flange but like I said thats ghetto...


and i didnt know that the BOV could cause stalling, me thinks its a whole other issue Kaeon...just an FYI man, i wanna see sum success here!!!!'

Being the car is MAF and the BOV vents to atmosphere yes it can cause stalling...

Dont think the HKS SSQV will help you out... it still vents to atmosphere like the tial..
but you can get a recirc. kit for the HKS unlike the tial.

I think it does help the problems - at least thats what ZPI's tests show

you can get a recirc. kit for the HKS unlike the tial.
Exactly my point!! lol

And yes the SSQ will take care of the surge problem even if it is vented to atmosphere...

I had the Blitz Dual Drive w/ my IS. that was pimpolicious.

FYI - random posts are sweet

It might cause you trouble later if you add a FMIC...
I own a vented SSQV on my DSM but have a GM Maf and translator...

But before I would get crazy compressor surge on low boost levels on my 16g.. Low boost and HKS didnt work for me.

Hopefully our tC is a differnet case. Keep us updated.

I would like to know how to combat the stalling as well. As I am looking to purchasing the Stage 0 in April.

I think zpi offers your choice of wastegates with the purchase which is why the price is lower. Ask them which one to get so to avoid the issue

I think zpi offers your choice of wastegates with the purchase which is why the price is lower. Ask them which one to get so to avoid the issue


Yeah, I was planning on asking Kenny what he recommends when I get up there on the 4th for my exhaust work.

I'll be there on the 3rd if you are close to the area. More people for beer, the better

I'll be there on the 3rd if you are close to the area. More people for beer, the better

If you are staying over till the next day (4th), then we will more than likely (usually) go out for lunch or dinner with Kenny and the gang. So, stick around if you can. Your right, the more people the better... :P I'm also bringing another local, he drives an xA.

I think zpi offers your choice of wastegates with the purchase which is why the price is lower. Ask them which one to get so to avoid the issue


Yeah, I was planning on asking Kenny what he recommends when I get up there on the 4th for my exhaust work.

I already called the grape smirnoff ice :) I mean buuur

GOT THE CAR RUNNING!!!! It does have a jerking issue now when it down shifts but im assuming once it gets tuned it will stop jerking and such.

Sweet!!!! The new couplers seem to be working well, The charge pipe is off the firewall. The bov sounds like its blowing off pretty good now and I don't hear anymore surge, everything seems to be going good *Knock on wood*

Glad to see both of you running at least 95% efficent.

Sweet!!!! The new couplers seem to be working well, The charge pipe is off the firewall. The bov sounds like its blowing off pretty good now and I don't hear anymore surge, everything seems to be going good *Knock on wood*

Are they the silicone couplers that zpi sent you?

Sweet!!!! The new couplers seem to be working well, The charge pipe is off the firewall. The bov sounds like its blowing off pretty good now and I don't hear anymore surge, everything seems to be going good *Knock on wood*

Are they the silicone couplers that zpi sent you?

Yep the ones from turbo hose..

So are you recirculating the BOV?? Because that's not good, it sure sounds great, but i can assume you are still experiencing stalling symptoms once you let-off of the gas then? I'd suggest some thin hose and just pipe it back in behind the MAF and you shouldn't have anymore liftoff stalling 8)

PS: Anyone know if the xA/xB's utilize the same bolt pattern as the tC? and is it essentially the same kit that is offered on turbokits.com?

How does the eManage setup all work, is it tying into a knock sensor of any kind? and got any new under the hood engine bay shots to show the install? ;)

So are you recirculating the BOV?? Because that's not good, it sure sounds great, but i can assume you are still experiencing stalling symptoms once you let-off of the gas then? I'd suggest some thin hose and just pipe it back in behind the MAF and you shouldn't have anymore liftoff stalling 8)

I think you mean am I venting to atmosphere? :lalala:

Because
thin hose and just pipe it back in behind the MAF
Is pretty much recirculating. BTW when you recirculate a BOV you barely hear it anymore... And you cant recirculate the tial...

hey whats the thread lock for?

hey whats the thread lock for?

??

??? lol you said for the turbo install you need threadlock. what do you use it for?

??? lol you said for the turbo install you need threadlock. what do you use it for?

Oh I thought you meant the thread was locked :rofl: To be honest I didnt use any at all. But it was in the install instructions.

oh lol, but they are used as loctite for the screws? because what if you mess up on the install and you put the threadlock and cant unscrew the bolt, lol that would suck

oh lol, but they are used as loctite for the screws? because what if you mess up on the install and you put the threadlock and cant unscrew the bolt, lol that would suck

If you torch or heat up thread locker it gets gooey again, I stick to RTV on most of my stuff...

o ok kool thanks. Also did you change your spark plugs when you installed it? which ones did you buy and where did you get it if you did?

ugh, that's a small ___ turbo

HOLLY Thread resurection!

:rofl: i was just about to say that too!

One question my friends is annoying me about...

If he ordered te ZPI Stage 0 Today, will it come with everything and will he be able to do the turbo prep and isntall that puppy within the time perioud. If all is done right will he have any problems with the kit? He will be using the Copper WG gastket also.

Just quick check so he will stafoo.

One question my friends is annoying me about...

If he ordered te ZPI Stage 0 Today, will it come with everything and will he be able to do the turbo prep and isntall that puppy within the time perioud. If all is done right will he have any problems with the kit? He will be using the Copper WG gastket also.

Just quick check so he will stafoo.

Theres no way to tell if he will have problems. I don't think new kits come with a bov anymore...

One question my friends is annoying me about...

If he ordered te ZPI Stage 0 Today, will it come with everything and will he be able to do the turbo prep and isntall that puppy within the time perioud. If all is done right will he have any problems with the kit? He will be using the Copper WG gastket also.

Just quick check so he will stafoo.

There should be no problems at all... it's quite easy and I did mine in like 6 hours... If you have more questions, just Give ZPI a call at (866) 845-1807, and they'll let you know when a kit can ship and any additional needs you may have...

Yea, new stage 0 kits don't have a BOV. Good that he got that copper wastegate gasket. Do yourself a favor and get some different screws to attach the wastegate to the manifold. Go to NAPA and get some head studs and use those instead... will save you problems later. (e.g. bolts that won't come out) The ones that come with the WG (from the WG manufacturer) are a different kind of metal that isn't right for the application. They only cost a couple of bucks for new ones.

Watch the routing of the turbo oil return line. If it goes under where the WG dumps, it may melt from the heat. Get a DEI Cool Tube Extreme or something else to insulate it from the WG heat if it's routed right under it.

Also there's always the possibility that your O2 sensor is cross threaded in the stock manifold. Just be aware there's a good chance you may need to have another O2 sensor ordered from Toyota (you can cancel if you don't need it) or get a universal one ready from NAPA and splice the wiring from the stock one onto that in a pinch. (I didn't have to do that, but I've *heard* that the only difference from a universal wideband O2 sensor and one from Toyota is the harness at the other end. You might want to verify that with someone.)

Make sure to follow the directions about clocking the turbo. If your chargepipe rubs against the firewall, it isn't clocked right because it will fit if it's done properly.

Oh, and FFS... check to make sure the internal wastegate flapper is not jiggling around because it will drive you f@$^&g batty. :crazy: If it is you'll need to send it back to get welded or do it locally.

That's a summary of any of the issues I've had - good luck!!

Well I get the turbo back today and once again turbochargers.com has told me nothing is wrong with the turbo. Im really lost for ideas ive redone the return line soo many times with no luck.


Question how high or low is your fitting in your zpi oil pan? If I remove my fitting oil comes out meaning its trying to return oil into standing oil, Shouldnt the fitting be above the oil so it can drain freely?

^^But wouldn't the oil pan be full, negating where you put the plug anyway. I can take a pic of ours real quick for reference for you, but I'm pretty sure EVERY kit's oil plug is in the same spot, unless you tapped it yourself (Stage 0 people). Let me see if I can get a pic real quick for you.


PS...thread is so old, I forget what your original problem was? Are you talking about white smoke? I get it from time to time, but only after an oil change. It will come and go, and then after a while it will go away until my next oil change. I have no clue and can't get any consistancy in the happenings, except for only happens after an oil change.

^^But wouldn't the oil pan be full, negating where you put the plug anyway. I can take a pic of ours real quick for reference for you, but I'm pretty sure EVERY kit's oil plug is in the same spot, unless you tapped it yourself (Stage 0 people). Let me see if I can get a pic real quick for you.


PS...thread is so old, I forget what your original problem was? Are you talking about white smoke? I get it from time to time, but only after an oil change. It will come and go, and then after a while it will go away until my next oil change. I have no clue and can't get any consistancy in the happenings, except for only happens after an oil change.

My original problem (besides fittment issues) was the same problem! and like you said it came i sent the turbo back and when i reinstalled it, it went away. Then it came back again! went away so on a so forth. The oil is somehow pushing its way pass the seals...


http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/2699/1004435io9.jpg

BTW My pan was shipped to me already welded.

^^But wouldn't the oil pan be full, negating where you put the plug anyway. I can take a pic of ours real quick for reference for you, but I'm pretty sure EVERY kit's oil plug is in the same spot, unless you tapped it yourself (Stage 0 people). Let me see if I can get a pic real quick for you.


PS...thread is so old, I forget what your original problem was? Are you talking about white smoke? I get it from time to time, but only after an oil change. It will come and go, and then after a while it will go away until my next oil change. I have no clue and can't get any consistancy in the happenings, except for only happens after an oil change.

My original problem (besides fittment issues) was the same problem! and like you said it came i sent the turbo back and when i reinstalled it, it went away. Then it came back again! went away so on a so forth. The oil is somehow pushing its way pass the seals...

BTW My pan was shipped to me already welded.


Then I'm pretty sure your bung is in the same place, so need for me to go roll on the ground and get a pic... :P

Do you have a turbo timer? If not, how long are you waiting before turning off your car after a drive? I have since set my TT to 1 min instead of the 30 sec. You might not be giving it enough time to cycle itself down. It could just be an inherent thing with the MHI 16G. Who knows, it's not a problem though, besides being a little embarrassed sitting at a traffic light and start smoke screening the cars around you... :rofl: But driveability is not affected.

Is it possible to purchase different seals, or does new seals mean new turbine? Wonder if there is a thicker, or more durable seal you can install.

Secondly, What type of oil are you using? 5w30, 10w30? As the weight of the oil can also have an effect as to why we experience this.

These turbos are not MHI turbo's, im using 10w30 motor oil and I normally leave it for 30-45 for normal driving and a minute or so if I just get off the highway. To rebuild the turbo for new seals would probabaly cost as much as buying a new turbo all together.

BTW, I currently live my life rolling around under the tC trying to figure this out!

These turbos are not MHI turbo's, im using 10w30 motor oil and I normally leave it for 30-45 for normal driving and a minute or so if I just get off the highway. To rebuild the turbo for new seals would probabaly cost as much as buying a new turbo all together.

BTW, I currently live my life rolling around under the tC trying to figure this out!


Try switching to 5w30 (Synthetic of course), and I was told by someone that they are MHI brand. Like the GReddy 20G and the 20G upgrade that ZPI sells, are NOT the same turbines.

Try switching to 5w30 (Synthetic of course), and I was told by someone that they are MHI brand. Like the GReddy 20G and the 20G upgrade that ZPI sells, are NOT the same turbines.

5w30 is kinda thin for a turbo charged car imo, and the turbo's that turbochargers.com sells are not a MHI turbos, The EVO 3 GT is a copy of a MHI turbo. MHI turbos will say MHI on them as they are made by Mitsubishi.

Try switching to 5w30 (Synthetic of course), and I was told by someone that they are MHI brand. Like the GReddy 20G and the 20G upgrade that ZPI sells, are NOT the same turbines.

5w30 is kinda thin for a turbo charged car imo, and the turbo's that turbochargers.com sells are not a MHI turbos, The EVO 3 GT is a copy of a MHI turbo. MHI turbos will say MHI on them as they are made by Mitsubishi.


Ok, sorry bout that, just asked Sean about it. I thought someone was trying to say that they were MHI, might have been the other way around.

Talked to Kenny. 10w30 he says, which is what I'm running anyway. I'm just taking a stab as to why this can happen, but not on a consistent basis. Oh well, I guess I'll just deal with it till a big 20G or even GT32R BB turbo is sitting under the hood.

I have been reading this post like a soap opera all morning. Im interested (tax time coming up) in buying either a turbo or s/c. There are a cople of people here that did the zpi kit. Now that a year has gone by since you all started, how did it play out? There will always be issues when doing car projects, but would you guys do it again? Would you buy a different kit or different options? Or go s/c if you could have done it over?
I appreciate any imput.

^^I wouldn't have it any other way. I'd do it Again, and Again, and Again. ZPI 4 life..

infact, Kenny will do me a Twin Turbo kit for the Z. (he just don't know it yet.... :rofl: )

after reading this entire post i *might* have a suggestion on the leaking turbos. i know on my supra the oil pressure is only like 40psi at cruise and 10psi at idle. works on a low pressure/high volume system.

i really have no idea what psi the tc operates but i'm guessing it's over 60psi. most n/a's have high oil pressure. i bet oil is blowing pass the turbo seals and that is why the turbo is still cheaking out good. i would look into a restrictor of some sort and maybe give it a shot.

i know i had to run one on my ITS turbo.

Well I sent it back to Kenny and ZPI who says they found a blown seal... Weird How Ive sent it back to turbochargers.com 3 times and 3 times they told me it was fine. I guess they never really looked at it... That kind of makes me mad because I said 3 times Im pretty sure it was a seal..

SO i oreder the stage 0 from zpi awsome deal i got i also baught the hks ssbov i live in miami .Just wondering anything i should be aware of .

Tickets....

flame resistant suit on**
where does the bov (hks) go on the zpi 0 kit?

You have to buy the flange and get it welded on, or I think that zpi will do it for you. it goes on the charge piping somewhere between the crank case and the compressor side of the turbo.

Talked to Kenny. 10w30 he says, which is what I'm running anyway. I'm just taking a stab as to why this can happen, but not on a consistent basis. Oh well, I guess I'll just deal with it till a big 20G or even GT32R BB turbo is sitting under the hood.
im getting the zpi stage 0 soon and i was wondering if i needed to add anymore oil than stock?

and one more thing,is the turbo in the stage 0 only oil cooled or is it water and oil cooled?

Turbo tC take the same amount of oil as stock tC. I run about 1/4 quart over the f-line on the dip-stick to bump up oil pressure a bit -but I haven't heard a lot of folks doing this.

The Stage 0 and Stage 1 and 1.5 ships setup for oil cool only -That's how most folks run it. You can purchase some AN to barb fittings and run water cooling as well if you want because the 16G turbo has the water inlet and outlet already on the center housing so It's a simple mod.

Turbo tC take the same amount of oil as stock tC. I run about 1/4 quart over the f-line on the dip-stick to bump up oil pressure a bit -but I haven't heard a lot of folks doing this.

The Stage 0 and Stage 1 and 1.5 ships setup for oil cool only -That's how most folks run it. You can purchase some AN to barb fittings and run water cooling as well if you want because the 16G turbo has the water inlet and outlet already on the center housing so It's a simple mod.
thanks alot
so if i decide to not use water do i just leave the water inlet and outlet open or should i plug them with something?

Leave them open. It's not going to hurt anything.

Leave them open. It's not going to hurt anything.
thanks eric

so then being a year aor so old now...is this thing safe to buy and put on a auto yet?

*Mixes some oil and fittings, iron cast, mandrel bent piping, couplers, and a hint of boost*

*POOF*

Back from the dead. Great write up, and appreciate all of the information. As far as clocking the turbo, just take the clamp off, take the pin out, and done? Thanks!

I'm tired now after reading all of that.. :relief: Great write up though.

you got z zpi kit?
used?

^^Soon if it ever gets here.. Lol

nice!
good luck with it.
it must be great to know you have the new manifolds being made for your kit too

Thanks, I will be the forth owner of this kit :nails: and one of the previous owners had the manifold resurfaced from some warping issues so that should be ok for now. Its a stage 0 kit.

4th owner? Thats gotta tell you something about the kit. Wow good luck and hope you dont have any problems

Thanks, i hope its all ok. I figure being the forth owner an all, that all the bugs are all fixed. Let's hope i'm right.

The Stage 0 was a lot of fun in my car. My stage (modified) stage 1.5 is getting tuned tomorrow!

I'm tired now after reading all of that.. :relief: Great write up though.
x2 nice write up :clap:. Now I could send the link of this thread to my cousin to help him out installing his.

just read this whole thing.

watching, might need this diy later down the road

i would never buy anything that zpi or kenny has touched

EVER

Thats nice.

well im from louisville and ive seen the cars that theyve "built" that blew up and it didnt happen one or 2 times.

the best was when they built(well tried) a turbo integra and dyno tuned it with an air fuel ration of 14:1

i will never run any of their parts even if i was paid to

Again, thats nice.

PLEASE stop raising this thread.... I just needed to watch it.

he is posting up something useful. i would be worried about that little kit you got. ZPI FTL!

2 much tc speaks the truth, maybe next time kenny gets outta prison, he'll make a better turbo kit

You guys are dumb. Do some research before posting stupid arse comments.

hahahaha do some research? as if seein my buddies car on a flatbed blown up wasnt proof enough? listen kenny stricklin is a lying piece of ____. and about the only thing he can do is sell parts, not make them of intstal them. i wouldnt trust any of the ZPI guys to even put air in my tires.

zpi is as worthless as a football bat

Your buddies car does not speak for the hundreds of Stage 0 kits running around does it? Yeah didn't think so. You think your buddies car is the only car to ever blow up on a turbo. RESEARCH and look back to how many other turbo kits have blown up cars, I assure you the Stage 0 will be the LEAST numbered. A failed Engine can be caused by ANY number of problems. It does not reflect the quality of the turbo kit. If that was the case, I would not have been boosted for nearly 2 years! There have been people installing GReddy kits that blew up less than 24hrs after installing. There have been Dezod kits that blew up someones motor less than 2 weeks after driving.

and about the only thing he can do is sell parts, not make them of intstal them

LOL....that comment FURTHER lets me know you have absolutely NO idea what you are talking about. I guess I must have had a vivid dream of driving up to ZPI in it's Hay days and having Kenny fabricate me a custom exhaust and build and install the turbo kit that's on my ride.

Dude, seriously, stop talking.

no idea what im talkin about? oh so you know kenny?

i have pictures of their work. examples of the ____ty work they did.

TWISTED wires on the injector leads and put ELECTRICAL TAPE ON THEM.

JB WELDED a turbo manifold crack so it wouldnt leak

all of their shop cars are ____in slow. zpi is junk if you woulda hung around louisville and went by some other shops and see what they thought about zpi, you prolly woulda left town before you even got near zpi. but congrats for buyin a turbo kit from a recently released drug dealer

no idea what im talkin about? oh so you know kenny?

i have pictures of their work. examples of the ____ty work they did.

TWISTED wires on the injector leads and put ELECTRICAL TAPE ON THEM.

JB WELDED a turbo manifold crack so it wouldnt leak

all of their shop cars are flippin' slow. zpi is junk if you woulda hung around louisville and went by some other shops and see what they thought about zpi, you prolly woulda left town before you even got near zpi. but congrats for buyin a turbo kit from a recently released drug dealer


Good for you bud. You have pictures, lovely. I have an entire car done by them.

all of their shop cars are flippin' slow

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Ok, on that note, I just realized this was going to go nowhere and FAST. No point in trying to argue with someone who has NO idea what he is talking about.


Recently released drug dealer...... :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Wait.....Wait.... :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

How about you call Turbochargers.com (800) 749-7111, and ask for Kenny Strickler. Let me know what they say.

and when i call him ill ask him why his old shop got closed and why he got arrested. . . Oh because they used to sell out of the shop. oh thats right i remember now because i lived in ____in louisville and knew alot of people. you laughing, was like everyone else in louisville when ZPI opened

^^yeah, have fun with that bro.

peace

hey ive got a used zpi stage 0 coming with a fmic upgrade and i was wondering where to run my vaccum lines to prevent stalling at idle and problems like that.

^^You prevent stalling at idle by running step 1 or 2 colder spark plugs as well.

alright but any detail on where exactly the vacuum lines run...like to and from?

Here how you should run the vaccume line.
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff194/tcchris38/Vacuum20lines20connect1.jpg

evap block??? what the heck is that

cool diy

I don't know if this has been covered yet, but I have a few questions about the zpi kit, the first one is with a stage zero, do you have to upgrade the fuel system..I.E.-injectors or a fuel managment system.... And the second question I have is what is the wastegate PSI set at, I mean how manay pounds of boost is it set to run in the pre-set form without a boost controller

no, im still on stock ecu and injectors

im at 5-6 PSI, but im having my gauge installed tomorrow to confirm.

bump for you homes ^^

so my other question is zpi still in business so I can order this? and if so does any one have a contact number

no...zpi went out of business because of some super shady dealings...ripping people off and whatnot, bad shipping, some parts that didn't work...etc.
seriously, consider your self lucky.

Why would you want that kit anyway? Just cause it's cheap?

check this out:
http://www.whyindustries.com/store/index.php?cPath=23_90_32_38

look at the "backyard Brawler" or the "simple" kit, but your best bet is contacting Todd though the "Contact Us" link on the website.

^^No, ZPI is no more. You want a Stage 0 then your going to have to either make your own, or buy a used one. There are some other kits out that are similar in price such as the Basik kit from Turbo Toyota's.

no...zpi went out of business because of some super shady dealings...ripping people off and whatnot, bad shipping, some parts that didn't work...etc.
seriously, consider your self lucky.


That's not why they went out of business Meaty. They went out of business because the owner and investor had a falling out. The investor bought the whole company, original owner wanted to buy it back, said investor made an outrageous demand, original owner throw up his hands and dropped everything to do with the company (in turn hurting the current projects that were on the table). The investor from that point, knew nothing of what to do, so he did nothing else with the company. It wouldn't surprise me that they are still in a legal dispute over everything.

But your synopsis is a bit off the mark Meaty.

...I was kinda shocked with your first response...was waiting on that second response! :lol: Thanks for not makeing me loose my faith in you, rhythm! :rofl:

in any event, it doesn't matter. ZPI is dead and there is no reason to defend the company anymore. You can defend their products as much as we want as they are still in circulation as used kits, but the COMPANY is dead.

oh, and that new kit he put out with that new company looks super clean, don't it?

...I was kinda shocked with your first response...was waiting on that second response! :lol: Thanks for not makeing me loose my faith in you, rhythm! :rofl:

in any event, it doesn't matter. ZPI is dead and there is no reason to defend the company anymore. You can defend their products as much as we want as they are still in circulation as used kits, but the COMPANY is dead.

oh, and that new kit he put out with that new company looks super clean, don't it?


You know me....I like to keep it as accurate as possible :P . People take things way out of context when they read them over the internet... :lalala:

The "new kit" isn't really a "new kit" to my knowledge though. I thought they were for the most part "one-off" kits (nonetheless bad ___ though, running the Turbonetics GTK turbines). I think that's my next turbo. One capable of pumping 550-600whp.

so that line you t-tap for the vacume lines is the one that comes off the TB and runs to that clicking block?

I still need help with the vacume line setup, if any one could post some pic's of there setup that would be great

the yellow circle on the right is one you could use...really good for yoru BOV.

The yellow circle on the left is where we all tapped our vacblocks into, so you can use that for WG and Boost Gauge.

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l88/PJLikins/PJs%20tC/Turbo%20Installed/VacLines001small.jpg

ok I'll try it out, are the vacume blocks worth using?

yup...their great.

do you have pics of one installed?

do you have pics of one installed?
a pic of what installed? a vacuum block?
um....yeah....I kinda just posted it....ya know...that big silver thing with all the tubes coming out of it an the big "TurboToyotas" logo on it?.....

:silly:

no, a picture showing how the lines are ran to it, like a top view

Well, in that top pic, the line on the bottom left is going to my WG...the middle to my Boost Gauge and the bottom right going to my BOV.

In the following pic, the arrow is showing the line coming off the right that goes into that yellow circle.

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l88/PJLikins/PJs%20tC/Turbo%20Installed/VacLines005small.jpg

The left side of my vac block is going to the other end of the left yellow circle in the first pic:

Basically, the vac block is teed into the break booster line (left circle in first pic, on the firewall with the hard line) and acts as 3 Tees for all your vac line needs.

do you have pics of one installed?
a pic of what installed? a vacuum block?
um....yeah....I kinda just posted it....ya know...that big silver thing with all the tubes coming out of it an the big "TurboToyotas" logo on it?.....

:silly:


:rofl: I was kinda going to say the same thing.

but doesnt the wastegate need a vacume port pre- tb, and the bov needs one post tb

um...i dont' think so. vacume is vacume, right?

well from what I have heard from all my friedns runging sr20 powered 240's, they siad you need differnt vacume ref points because the of what the parts are doing, the waste gate is only used when your at you correct bar psi, and the bov is only used when the throttle is closed

what is the most boost you can safley run on the stock ecu and injectors?

no where past 6.
(it should be none at all)

My vote is for 0psi.
It's really not a good idea to run a turbo kit with stock ECU, stock injectors and no IC.
Alot of the ZPI Stage 0 Guys ened up getting all those items eventually...

what about if I am only planning on running race gas?

one more question, what psi of boost does the zpi stage 0 run out of the box? because I understand that I need injectors and a piggy back, but I am only going to run stock tune and injectors for a few weeks.... finacal reasons... but I will be intercooled

I would suggest you ask whoever you are purchaseing the used ZPI kit from...you know that ZPI is out of business and you can no longer get their kits used, right?

Oh, and "Don't boost on a budget"

The Stage 0 ran on 6 PSI out of the box. There were people who ran them for months as is, before craving that extra power. So, as long as everything is in good working order, you should be good to go.

Yeah, but new, the wastegate came with like a 9psi spring and you had to swap out the 6psi spring during install, right?

That is correct. One of my freinds did the swap and i remember it was the biggest PITA!

so long story short, you can boost up to 6 pounds safely?btw i am not buying a used zpi kit, I am merly using them for reference, I want to run the turbotoyota basic kit

Yeah, but new, the wastegate came with like a 9psi spring and you had to swap out the 6psi spring during install, right?

Correct. You were given both springs.

firstly, if you have not already purchased the basik kit, Todd is planning to discontinue it. Secondly, The TT kits and the zpi kits are WORLDS different...NO WAY you could run that larger turbo and EL mani on stock injectors and no managemnet. Not all turbo kits are built alike, bro.

I have the TT standard stage 1 kit and was boosting 4psi for one or 2 weeks on stock injectors and no management...ran DANGEROUSLY lean.

firstly, if you have not already purchased the basik kit, Todd is planning to discontinue it. Secondly, The TT kits and the zpi kits are WORLDS different...NO WAY you could run that larger turbo and EL mani on stock injectors and no managemnet. Not all turbo kits are built alike, bro.

I have the TT standard stage 1 kit and was boosting 4psi for one or 2 weeks on stock injectors and no management...ran DANGEROUSLY lean.



Yeah, can't compare the two that easily. The ZPI Stage 0 kits did the opposite, they ran RICH instead of dangerously lean.

so who makes manifolds for the 16g turbo that you said will allow me to run rich?