Your telling me!, I think Im getting this bolt to come out ever so slightly. I may need to have this rethreaded. (Im sure I will), Kenny is going to send me a new outlet flange to see if it helps the charge pipe problem. Im going to have to order a Copper Gasket because using no gasket on the manifold side doesnt seem to work to well. I will keep you guys updated on everything that is going on.


PS. ZPI has been helping me out alot, So don't think Im bashing them or the kit, Im just in a very frustrated mood right now.

 

How did that break off? I mean, the down pipe has a flange welded on to the end of it that mates up to the WG. It's just holes and the bolt threads into the WG. I took mine off and on several times as I had to replace the Tial gaskets with copper. Everything lined up fine with the flange.


Do the holes on the flange line up?

As for the charge pipe, The charge pipe side of the turbo clocking, you can rotate that towards the front of the car and it will bring the charge pipe further away from the firewall.

If it's the height, remove about 1" of the pipe. Also, with the coupler on, does the charge pipe meet up with the throttle plate, or is there space within the coupler from charge pipe to throttle plate?

 

Paul,

I am sorry to hear about the issues that you are having. Like w talked about last night I believe the turbo outlet flange was made a little to tall which in turn is changing the angle of the pipe and making it interfere with the fire wall. Per our conversation last night I had planned on making this for you on Monday when I return to the shop. I believe this is the cause of the angle being off etc… You should not have to cut the charge pipe as they are all made the same and the only other issue thus far has been that with the strut bars. The out let pipe is still made by hand and although they are made in a jig they are kind of hard to do with there small size and only being bolted to one end. I think a ½ will solve all your problems.

As far as the bolt breaking the Tial bolts are pretty strong you must have got one cross threaded and that coupled with the heat weakened it then when you tried to remove it “snap”

I would suggest taking it to a local machine shop as I am sure they could remove that for you and re tap it. You may have to get a new bolt, just make sure it is a allen head.

Tial gaskets suck….we do have copper ones available in our online store…but two machined surfaces can go with out a gasket without failure. This is probably a better choice than the less than par gaskets that Tial includes in there Waste gates.

Well we look forward to seeing this project along….As always we recommend that our customers allow due time for the install as inevitable issue due arise…kind of the nature of the beast.

-Kenny

 

Yeah, everyone completely understands the frustration. It will come together for you. I talked to Keisha a few minutes ago. I know they are getting the copper gaskets as this Tial thing is just way over the top. Mine ran about an hour before both gaskets blew.

 

Well being my WG is routed to the DP its a pita to get on or off, No the holes really don't line up all that well. As for the Charge pipe its the height, Im going to try this new outlet kenny is sending out. But I think I may have to cut that 1" off. We will see... As for the charge pipe and TB lets jusy say if they where any closer they would be inside of eachother

As kenny said allow enough time to install/test it would be best to have a spare car handy. If you don't you may wind up like me, I had to take off work today and probably tomorrow because I can't drive the car. And I have no other cars to drive.

This is my current problem
http://www.palmbaystreetracing.com/images//100_3417.jpg
This is how it lines up, this is why its a pita to get tight. Im going to try to use smaller bolts that go threw the holes and nuts on the other end as it should give it more "play" room.

 

My pipe did actualy fit fine at its original length. I just wanted it to clear the strut bar. I did blow wastegate gasket twice so I reordered ones with steel rings around them. I also broke wastegate bolts inside the manifold. Turns out they were too long and once you put them in, thread gets damaged on the end of the bolt. This is the reason you can't take them out. This is a problem with Tial, not ZPI though.

 

Would you recommend stainless or copper aftermarket gaskets??? ZPI has copper that is $20, but I found stainless for $12. Any suggestions?

 

I don't know if 1 is better than the others. I know the copper one is gauranteed to never fail and the whole gasket is copper. The steel ones I have seen in the past are steel rings within a regular gasket.

 

http://www.zeropointindustries.net/s...821e4e0d9bacc9

or

http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=5261&

 

Ooooh. I hope this is worked out now before my kit is sent. (Since it hasn't been yet.)

So I'm gathering that I won't be able to keep my DC strut tower bar on??

 

If you want to do the strut bar, I think you have to do what scion dad, etc did. There didn't seem to be a plan to change it when I had my order placed.

Copper vs Stainless - now that is the question! dun dun dun

 

Basically just have to work it huh. Hmm. It's the DC dual carbon strut tower bar.



Hopefully not because that'll be about $450 worth of stuff (so far) that I'll have to remove in order to accomodate this kit. (I've been told the FMIC won't fit with the foglight option on )

As for the gasket... if you can get away with none, I don't see why one wouldn't just do that? Hehe - or use the same stuff that's used for the oil pan on these car!

 

^^I don't think there is ANY turbo manufacture that can fit an FMIC behind the factory fogs. You will need to relocate the fogs somewhere else with any FMIC out there.

 

im preety sure if your getting a stage 1 that the pipe will fit with your strut bar becuase it goes down and the stage 0 goes straight to the turbo so it comes up a little more. If you shave a inch or so it will get rid of the rubbing but you stlil wont be able to fit a strut bar and it may or may not hit the engine cover depending how much you cut off.

 

Another little update I just ordered the copper gaskets so we will see how well those work. I got the bolt out by drilling it out the best I could, There was no way I was going to twist it out. Now I need to get the hole rethreaded, Kenny says he can do this for me so I will have to send it back to ZPI. I hope I can find the right allen head bolt for it once its rethreaded and I hope what happened last time doesnt happen again. I really wish I would of gotten the wastegate dumped. That is whats causing the problem because only one side of the flange will really line up. If I didn't have the WG dump going into the DP the bolt never would of stripped. So I guess its my own fault for being picky


Use a torch to get off the oil pan easy, we got it off in like 2 mins with a torch... We do it to Honda's all the time.

 

I just wish they'd send mine. Maaaan. It's taking a loooong time. However, I do hope they take these things into consideration, since it's still there.

 

I hope so too, waiting for my kit too. Sux cause I leave for the desert next week till march, so all the waiting and impatience was for nothing cause I'll be gone by the time my kit finally gets in. All these problems people are having, especially kaeon really has me worried regardless of whether this kit is installed professionally or not. I've been waiting since november and once I get back from the desert I'll have to decide whether I wannna deal with all these problems after getting the kit installed or maybe just end up trying to sell my kit here on scionlife. Well at least I'll be getting 2 months of tax free and hazard duty pay. Maybe I'll just end up buying a fmic, then the charge pipe issue will cease to exist. Still worried about the wastegate though. Well, we'll see. Peace guys. Hope your luck changes Kaeon.

 

I hear you man, I think we've both been waiting about the same amount of time.

 

Correct if you get the FMIC you shouldnt have the charge pipe problem. Also if you dont get the WG Tube routed back into the DP you shouldnt have a problem there either. Like I said I guess I caused my own problem by getting that done, And Im regreting it right now. Thanks for the kind words I hope my luck changes to, Im using my grandma's car right now as she passed away a few weeks ago and left it to my dad. So atleast I have a way to get around for now.

 

Thanks for the tip on the torching the oil pan. Definitely going to try that out - I don't want to f up the pan w/ dents/scratches.