Turbo Install (ZPI Stage 0)
#1
Turbo Install (ZPI Stage 0)
Tools Needed
Open Head Wreches
Socket Set
Jack
Jack Stands
Screw Drivers
Scissors
Supplies Needed
Thread Locker
Optional
Copper Gaskets For Wastegate
^ I really suggest these
Aswell as I suggest using a ssq bov, as tials under low boost tend to cause compressor surge. (I hear ZPI has now switched to SSQ's)
"Your Crew"
Before we start with the DIY lets get down some basics. I found this information very well worded...
( Yeh im also lazy )
Whats a BOV?
Whats a Wastegate?
A turbo by itself does not know how to regulate boost levels. Basically, a turbo system is a positive feedback loop meaning that the engine's exhaust spins the turbo which, forces more air into the intake making more exhaust which, in turn spins the turbo even faster. Without a way to regulate boost levels the turbo would keep producing higher pressures until the engine exploded. This is where the waste gate comes into play. The waste gate attaches onto the turbo header before the turbo. When you begin accelerating exhaust gas pressure builds inside the manifold and is forced through the turbo. This pressure continues to increase as the turbo spins faster (remember the positive feedback loop). When the desired boost level is reached the waste gate opens and vents pressure from inside the manifold so the turbo won't spin any faster.
So how does the waste gate work exactly?
Above is a diagram of a typical external waste gate. Inside the waste gate is a diaphragm, which creates a seal, and a spring, which holds the waste gate, closed. Spring rates vary depending on the amount of boost you want to run, typically they are given in a "bar" value for example 1 bar would be 14.7psi. This would mean that in order to open the waste gate you would need to excerpt a greater pressure than the 14.7psi spring holding the waste gate closed. In order for the waste gate to work you must have the compressor reference port hooked up to the compressor side of the turbo, if you don't have this vacuum line attached than the boost pressure will not be limited to the set spring pressure; it will build unlimited boost pressure until your engine is destroyed.
Normally pressure from a spooling turbo pushes against the diaphragm (though the vacuum line attached to the compressor reference port), which in turn pushes against the waste gate spring. When the pressure from the spooling turbo exceeds the spring pressure the waste gate’s plunger opens releasing the excess pressure through the dump tube into the exhaust after the turbo or to open atmosphere. Typically, if you use the waste gate to control your boost levels you will experience a decrease in power and spool times. Why? Although the spring fully opens at its set spring pressure it tends to begin opening before reaching the set spring pressure. This "pre-opening" leaks boost pressure through the dump tube before max boost pressure is reached resulting in a decrease in power mostly toward the top end. This can be corrected by using a boost controller.
Boost controllers serve two functions; increase boost levels beyond the set wastegate spring pressure and reduce the "pre-opening" of the wastegate-controlled boost pressure.
A manual boost controller will allow you to increase boost levels beyond what the wastegate spring is set. How does it work? Below is a diagram of a manual wastegate.
In order to run a manual boost controller we need to tee off of the vacuum line which runs from the turbo compressor housing to the compressor reference port. The manual boost controller works using a spring and check ball, by screwing the adjusting screw into the boost controller you put more pressure on the spring which reduces the amount of airflow through the boost controller and into the boost controller port. Less airflow means less pressure will be assisting the spring to keep the waste gate plunger shut. The pressure in the vacuum line going to the compressor reference port will equal the pressure the turbo is producing. A boost controller will allow you to direct some of that pressure to the top of the wastegate diaphragm creating two opposable forces. By adjusting the spring pressure of the boost controller you can vary the amount of boost that the turbo will make before opening the waste gate’s plunger. If you want to run a higher boost level than the waste gate spring allows you will need a boost controller.
The manual boost controller is a very simple device that can help you make more power from your turbo setup. Here are three additional things to keep in mind about waste gates:
Without a line running from the compressor housing to the waste gate’s compressor reference port boost pressures will keep increasing forever. This will quickly destroy your engine!
Run a waste gate as close to the desired boost pressure as possible this will help the boost controller handle the pressure better.
You can't reduce your desired boost pressure lower than the spring rate.
Removing Stock Parts
Removing Header
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=56520
Removing Air Box
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=51411
Turbo Prep
The Turbo Prep is work that can be done inside the house (Yeah my kind of work!)
We are going to connect the following parts.. The Turbo to the Manifold, The Waste gate to the Manifold, The Down pipe to the Turbo and if it calls for it the Waste gate to the Down pipe. (All of this sounds a lot harder then it really is) Then we are going to install the Blow Off Valve onto the Charge pipe. This will save us some time when we go outside to install this bad boy
Start off by getting everything unpacked and checked for packing peanuts. Check all pipes, Manifold runners, etc for peanuts as they can find there way inside. Look for any dirt of grime clean as needed.
First thing first get everything out of the boxes and unpacked and go wow!
First we are going to clock the turbo. To do this we need to remove the alignment pin by unscrewing this clamp.
Remove the cartridge slowly to expose the pin.
Remove the pin and replace cartridge and clamp
Now grab your charge pipe, bov, bov fittings etc
Place the BOV'S clamp onto the charge pipe (You may need to strech it out a little)
Grab your BOV'S rubber o-ring
Attach it to the BOV (Note there is a lip on the flange from the charge pipe make sure the o-ring sits around that lip, If it hangs over when you blow off your going to pinch it and rip it)
Tighten down using your Allen key
Don't forget to install your vacuum plug, use a washer on the top and bottom of the barb fitting to prevent leaks
Now grab your waste gate
And install it on the manifold
Using the supplied gasket and bolts of course
Time to place the turbo onto the manifold so grab your gasket
And place it on the manifold
My sexy white legs, Tans are sooo over rated...
Turbo Installed
Now we are going to install the outlet flange for the charge pipe
Make sure to use the gasket
Now we will install the Down Pipe
Using the gasket of course
All set now tighten everything up
On the top of the turbo housing you will see this red cap remove it and install your barb fitting for the oil feed (Make sure to remove all red caps as they will melt under heat.
Oil feed fitting
Tighten your fitting and your oil supply line down tight you do not want leaks. I don't know if teflon tape would be safe to use here being this area gets hot, Id say don't use anything if you can get away with it
Now grab your oil pan and "L" fitting
And screw it in tight you may want to use plumbers tape or some other compound on this...
Install
Now you can install your oil return line ( I choose the clamp mine down)
Now Its time to remove the oil pan (This is the scary part) Toyota does a great job sealing their oil pans witch means its going to be a pita to get off so with that said I had to call in some back up support...
I present to you DJ "BOOSTED DSM" LAPAN
Tada! It took some torch heating a screwdriver and a hammer to get it off. If you do choose to use a screwdriver be careful not to chip anything (This is proof that it will come off with enough time and effort of course lol). Be sure the clean the case from any old sealent. *Note I suggest you remove the S.Pipe as it gets in the way.
Grab your new pan (with fitting installed) and spread your sealant around (use a good amount) Install the pan using the OEM bolts finger tight! Let this dry for about an hour and a half and then tighten down all the way.
Now we are going to run our oil feed. We will need to remove our stock oil sensor. But first drop in the whole manifold,turbo,wastegate setup and tighten the head huts down to spec.
Now place our T fitting in the place of the old sensor, Pluging the sensor back in at the end of the fitting. Place your oil supply line on and tight down.
Place your coupler on the turbo outlet
And place a coupler on the Throttle Body Then Place your charge pipe into both couplers (Have fun with this lol)
You may run into this problem witch im currently trying to find a fix for
Next we are going to clock the turbo as far back as it can go, while remaining in both couplers. Loosen your snap ring by loosening your 10mm nut and turn the turbo outlet as far back as you can. After that install the filter and Intake pipe *Notice the battery is out for this*
Filter and pipe on!
Check all your fittings and check them again make sure everything is nice and tight. Make sure to run your vac lines to the bov and wastegate, I didnt include how to do it in this DIY being people may want to do their own thing. Please use ZPI's install manual as a reference. Before you start up the car remember to put new oil in and a new filter use only fully synthetic motor oil. Do not start the car without giving the turbo a few oil primes. Do this by removing the EFI fuse in the engine bays fuse box. Get into the car and turn the key as if you were starting the car. Give it around 20 seconds or so to prime. Then replace the fuse and start the car..
Review
ZPI's customer care is good the ladies who answer the phone are very nice (even to me!) I say this because I’m a pain in the butt. I probably called ZPI 50 times during this whole order process Kenny is a very cool down to earth type of guy. The only downside to the whole process was the shipping end of things. I paid for the kit 12-30-05 because I was told it was ready to ship never got a tracking number so I called ZPI around 01-04-06 & Kenny said they were waiting on some parts and it would ship that Friday. Friday rolls along and still no tracking number!! ARG! So I call again 01-11-06 and am told there is a delay but Kenny is going to send the kit out to be coated for me out of his pocket (Nice guy) So I Was told it will ship by the end of the week. It is now 01-15-06 and I’m waiting on the tracking number. I called ZPI 01-16-06 and Kenny told me everything was back from the coaters and it was ready to ship! Sweet right!! Well it shipped out the 18th and I got it in on the 23rd. (Sickness)
ZPI’S business end of things is pretty good some things could be improved. I do wish they were a little clearer on when the kits are actually going to ship but I can't put all of the blame on them if they are waiting on the parts from another source who may be delaying their shipping. The Kit itself seemed to be great quality for the money, Welds are clean and solid and nothing looks rushed. I think the pipes weren’t polished that good being I could still see the lettering on them but oh well I’M not one for cosmetics anyways... kit fit together pretty well I had a few things go wrong but corrected them in a short time. Kenny has been helping me out as of now getting the car running right. I didn’t put any washers on the WG or BOV so I think i have a vac leak there. As well as I think my rubber ring is not sitting right in the bov. The car feels strong and pulls pretty damn good if I can say so myself. Turbo spool is fast and kicks you right in the face with a wow! Kit install time total took around 7 hours or so with a buddy and me. We also stopped to eat etc and saved the oil pan for last (Meaning we had to wait an extra hour or so for it to dry) Id say anyone with decent mechanical skills could install this. All and All Id say this is a great kit for the weekend racer and also a great starter kit. I think these turbo’s are good for around 20 psi check with Kenny on that to make sure.
Special Thanks To
Kenny @ www.thescionstore.com
For an Awesome Kit!
Open Head Wreches
Socket Set
Jack
Jack Stands
Screw Drivers
Scissors
Supplies Needed
Thread Locker
Optional
Copper Gaskets For Wastegate
^ I really suggest these
Aswell as I suggest using a ssq bov, as tials under low boost tend to cause compressor surge. (I hear ZPI has now switched to SSQ's)
"Your Crew"
Before we start with the DIY lets get down some basics. I found this information very well worded...
( Yeh im also lazy )
Whats a BOV?
Originally Posted by Dezod_Boosted_STi
Pressure release valve or more commonly known as a "Blow Off Valve", releases turbo pressure when the throttle plate is closed. The turbo is still spinning and still creating pressure. The forced air will hit the throttle plate and return where it came from. When a BOV reads vacuum from the manifold, it either opens a valve, or softens the valve. Which lets the pressure escape from it's opening. In order to work correctly the air must go back into the intake before your turbo because the Air Flow Meter has accounted for it. If not you will have a temporary rich condition, which will upset your idle slightly. Proper tuning can get around this hassle. Most choose to vent to the air, as they love the sweet sound the air makes when it runs to the atmosphere. If the pressure release valve (as some call it) contains a horn or small holes/vents it will cause the air to make a louder/higher pitched sound depending on what is used.
The main function of a blow-off valve is to vent excess boost pressure when the throttle butterfly is closed. The lower chamber of the blow-off valve is plumbed into the intercooler front pipe while a small vacuum hose leads from the top of the valve to the inlet plenim on the engine. Inside the blow-off valve is a diaphragm (usually made of rubber) and a spring with a small insert to support the diaphragm where it seats against the valve body.
When the throttle butterfly is open, the boost pressure that enters the upper chamber above the diaphragm, via the small hose from the plenim chamber in the top of the blow-off valve, is equal to the manifold absolute pressure (MAP). Because the pressures are equal and positive, the spring holds the diaphragm on the valve seat and stops the pressurized air from being vented away. When the throttle butterfly is closed, the MAP is in vacuum and the diaphragm lifts away from its seat, allowing the boost pressure to vent to atmosphere
When the throttle butterfly is reopened, the pressure in the blow-off valve becomes positive once more, the spring pushes the diaphragm onto its seat reventing boost pressure from being vented away. There are a number of reasons why a blow-off valve is a good idea. When the throttle butterfly is closed, the spooled-up boost pressure cannot escape and subsequently puts tremendous stress on the turbo by stalling the compressor wheel, compressor shaft, and turbine wheel.
The blow-off valve vents his boost pressure allowing the turbo components to spin freely in a vacuum. This prevents significant turbo lag and allows the turbo to spool-up more quickly. Over time, the blow-off valve can help to minimize stress on the turbo components and prolong the turbo's life.
A blow-off valve helps to keep the turbo spinning when the driver lets off the throttle.
Without a CBV, the throttle plate would close, creating a wall to the pressurized air whooshing out of the turbo. The air would crash into the closed plate, then air behind it would pile up, and eventually a wave of pressure would travel back to the turbo. Besides being a shock to the turbo, it would basically cause the turbo to come to a stop.
Then when you wanted to get back on the gas, you'd have to wait for the turbo so spin up all over again. With a CBV, the turbo can free-wheel for a while (like when you're shifting), because the intake pressure is relieved.
The main function of a blow-off valve is to vent excess boost pressure when the throttle butterfly is closed. The lower chamber of the blow-off valve is plumbed into the intercooler front pipe while a small vacuum hose leads from the top of the valve to the inlet plenim on the engine. Inside the blow-off valve is a diaphragm (usually made of rubber) and a spring with a small insert to support the diaphragm where it seats against the valve body.
When the throttle butterfly is open, the boost pressure that enters the upper chamber above the diaphragm, via the small hose from the plenim chamber in the top of the blow-off valve, is equal to the manifold absolute pressure (MAP). Because the pressures are equal and positive, the spring holds the diaphragm on the valve seat and stops the pressurized air from being vented away. When the throttle butterfly is closed, the MAP is in vacuum and the diaphragm lifts away from its seat, allowing the boost pressure to vent to atmosphere
When the throttle butterfly is reopened, the pressure in the blow-off valve becomes positive once more, the spring pushes the diaphragm onto its seat reventing boost pressure from being vented away. There are a number of reasons why a blow-off valve is a good idea. When the throttle butterfly is closed, the spooled-up boost pressure cannot escape and subsequently puts tremendous stress on the turbo by stalling the compressor wheel, compressor shaft, and turbine wheel.
The blow-off valve vents his boost pressure allowing the turbo components to spin freely in a vacuum. This prevents significant turbo lag and allows the turbo to spool-up more quickly. Over time, the blow-off valve can help to minimize stress on the turbo components and prolong the turbo's life.
A blow-off valve helps to keep the turbo spinning when the driver lets off the throttle.
Without a CBV, the throttle plate would close, creating a wall to the pressurized air whooshing out of the turbo. The air would crash into the closed plate, then air behind it would pile up, and eventually a wave of pressure would travel back to the turbo. Besides being a shock to the turbo, it would basically cause the turbo to come to a stop.
Then when you wanted to get back on the gas, you'd have to wait for the turbo so spin up all over again. With a CBV, the turbo can free-wheel for a while (like when you're shifting), because the intake pressure is relieved.
Whats a Wastegate?
Originally Posted by Titan@TurboSaturns
A turbo by itself does not know how to regulate boost levels. Basically, a turbo system is a positive feedback loop meaning that the engine's exhaust spins the turbo which, forces more air into the intake making more exhaust which, in turn spins the turbo even faster. Without a way to regulate boost levels the turbo would keep producing higher pressures until the engine exploded. This is where the waste gate comes into play. The waste gate attaches onto the turbo header before the turbo. When you begin accelerating exhaust gas pressure builds inside the manifold and is forced through the turbo. This pressure continues to increase as the turbo spins faster (remember the positive feedback loop). When the desired boost level is reached the waste gate opens and vents pressure from inside the manifold so the turbo won't spin any faster.
So how does the waste gate work exactly?
Above is a diagram of a typical external waste gate. Inside the waste gate is a diaphragm, which creates a seal, and a spring, which holds the waste gate, closed. Spring rates vary depending on the amount of boost you want to run, typically they are given in a "bar" value for example 1 bar would be 14.7psi. This would mean that in order to open the waste gate you would need to excerpt a greater pressure than the 14.7psi spring holding the waste gate closed. In order for the waste gate to work you must have the compressor reference port hooked up to the compressor side of the turbo, if you don't have this vacuum line attached than the boost pressure will not be limited to the set spring pressure; it will build unlimited boost pressure until your engine is destroyed.
Normally pressure from a spooling turbo pushes against the diaphragm (though the vacuum line attached to the compressor reference port), which in turn pushes against the waste gate spring. When the pressure from the spooling turbo exceeds the spring pressure the waste gate’s plunger opens releasing the excess pressure through the dump tube into the exhaust after the turbo or to open atmosphere. Typically, if you use the waste gate to control your boost levels you will experience a decrease in power and spool times. Why? Although the spring fully opens at its set spring pressure it tends to begin opening before reaching the set spring pressure. This "pre-opening" leaks boost pressure through the dump tube before max boost pressure is reached resulting in a decrease in power mostly toward the top end. This can be corrected by using a boost controller.
Boost controllers serve two functions; increase boost levels beyond the set wastegate spring pressure and reduce the "pre-opening" of the wastegate-controlled boost pressure.
A manual boost controller will allow you to increase boost levels beyond what the wastegate spring is set. How does it work? Below is a diagram of a manual wastegate.
In order to run a manual boost controller we need to tee off of the vacuum line which runs from the turbo compressor housing to the compressor reference port. The manual boost controller works using a spring and check ball, by screwing the adjusting screw into the boost controller you put more pressure on the spring which reduces the amount of airflow through the boost controller and into the boost controller port. Less airflow means less pressure will be assisting the spring to keep the waste gate plunger shut. The pressure in the vacuum line going to the compressor reference port will equal the pressure the turbo is producing. A boost controller will allow you to direct some of that pressure to the top of the wastegate diaphragm creating two opposable forces. By adjusting the spring pressure of the boost controller you can vary the amount of boost that the turbo will make before opening the waste gate’s plunger. If you want to run a higher boost level than the waste gate spring allows you will need a boost controller.
The manual boost controller is a very simple device that can help you make more power from your turbo setup. Here are three additional things to keep in mind about waste gates:
Without a line running from the compressor housing to the waste gate’s compressor reference port boost pressures will keep increasing forever. This will quickly destroy your engine!
Run a waste gate as close to the desired boost pressure as possible this will help the boost controller handle the pressure better.
You can't reduce your desired boost pressure lower than the spring rate.
Removing Stock Parts
Removing Header
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=56520
Removing Air Box
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=51411
Turbo Prep
The Turbo Prep is work that can be done inside the house (Yeah my kind of work!)
We are going to connect the following parts.. The Turbo to the Manifold, The Waste gate to the Manifold, The Down pipe to the Turbo and if it calls for it the Waste gate to the Down pipe. (All of this sounds a lot harder then it really is) Then we are going to install the Blow Off Valve onto the Charge pipe. This will save us some time when we go outside to install this bad boy
Start off by getting everything unpacked and checked for packing peanuts. Check all pipes, Manifold runners, etc for peanuts as they can find there way inside. Look for any dirt of grime clean as needed.
First thing first get everything out of the boxes and unpacked and go wow!
First we are going to clock the turbo. To do this we need to remove the alignment pin by unscrewing this clamp.
Remove the cartridge slowly to expose the pin.
Remove the pin and replace cartridge and clamp
Now grab your charge pipe, bov, bov fittings etc
Place the BOV'S clamp onto the charge pipe (You may need to strech it out a little)
Grab your BOV'S rubber o-ring
Attach it to the BOV (Note there is a lip on the flange from the charge pipe make sure the o-ring sits around that lip, If it hangs over when you blow off your going to pinch it and rip it)
Tighten down using your Allen key
Don't forget to install your vacuum plug, use a washer on the top and bottom of the barb fitting to prevent leaks
Now grab your waste gate
And install it on the manifold
Using the supplied gasket and bolts of course
Time to place the turbo onto the manifold so grab your gasket
And place it on the manifold
My sexy white legs, Tans are sooo over rated...
Turbo Installed
Now we are going to install the outlet flange for the charge pipe
Make sure to use the gasket
Now we will install the Down Pipe
Using the gasket of course
All set now tighten everything up
On the top of the turbo housing you will see this red cap remove it and install your barb fitting for the oil feed (Make sure to remove all red caps as they will melt under heat.
Oil feed fitting
Tighten your fitting and your oil supply line down tight you do not want leaks. I don't know if teflon tape would be safe to use here being this area gets hot, Id say don't use anything if you can get away with it
Now grab your oil pan and "L" fitting
And screw it in tight you may want to use plumbers tape or some other compound on this...
Install
Now you can install your oil return line ( I choose the clamp mine down)
Now Its time to remove the oil pan (This is the scary part) Toyota does a great job sealing their oil pans witch means its going to be a pita to get off so with that said I had to call in some back up support...
I present to you DJ "BOOSTED DSM" LAPAN
Tada! It took some torch heating a screwdriver and a hammer to get it off. If you do choose to use a screwdriver be careful not to chip anything (This is proof that it will come off with enough time and effort of course lol). Be sure the clean the case from any old sealent. *Note I suggest you remove the S.Pipe as it gets in the way.
Grab your new pan (with fitting installed) and spread your sealant around (use a good amount) Install the pan using the OEM bolts finger tight! Let this dry for about an hour and a half and then tighten down all the way.
Now we are going to run our oil feed. We will need to remove our stock oil sensor. But first drop in the whole manifold,turbo,wastegate setup and tighten the head huts down to spec.
Now place our T fitting in the place of the old sensor, Pluging the sensor back in at the end of the fitting. Place your oil supply line on and tight down.
Place your coupler on the turbo outlet
And place a coupler on the Throttle Body Then Place your charge pipe into both couplers (Have fun with this lol)
You may run into this problem witch im currently trying to find a fix for
Next we are going to clock the turbo as far back as it can go, while remaining in both couplers. Loosen your snap ring by loosening your 10mm nut and turn the turbo outlet as far back as you can. After that install the filter and Intake pipe *Notice the battery is out for this*
Filter and pipe on!
Check all your fittings and check them again make sure everything is nice and tight. Make sure to run your vac lines to the bov and wastegate, I didnt include how to do it in this DIY being people may want to do their own thing. Please use ZPI's install manual as a reference. Before you start up the car remember to put new oil in and a new filter use only fully synthetic motor oil. Do not start the car without giving the turbo a few oil primes. Do this by removing the EFI fuse in the engine bays fuse box. Get into the car and turn the key as if you were starting the car. Give it around 20 seconds or so to prime. Then replace the fuse and start the car..
Review
ZPI's customer care is good the ladies who answer the phone are very nice (even to me!) I say this because I’m a pain in the butt. I probably called ZPI 50 times during this whole order process Kenny is a very cool down to earth type of guy. The only downside to the whole process was the shipping end of things. I paid for the kit 12-30-05 because I was told it was ready to ship never got a tracking number so I called ZPI around 01-04-06 & Kenny said they were waiting on some parts and it would ship that Friday. Friday rolls along and still no tracking number!! ARG! So I call again 01-11-06 and am told there is a delay but Kenny is going to send the kit out to be coated for me out of his pocket (Nice guy) So I Was told it will ship by the end of the week. It is now 01-15-06 and I’m waiting on the tracking number. I called ZPI 01-16-06 and Kenny told me everything was back from the coaters and it was ready to ship! Sweet right!! Well it shipped out the 18th and I got it in on the 23rd. (Sickness)
ZPI’S business end of things is pretty good some things could be improved. I do wish they were a little clearer on when the kits are actually going to ship but I can't put all of the blame on them if they are waiting on the parts from another source who may be delaying their shipping. The Kit itself seemed to be great quality for the money, Welds are clean and solid and nothing looks rushed. I think the pipes weren’t polished that good being I could still see the lettering on them but oh well I’M not one for cosmetics anyways... kit fit together pretty well I had a few things go wrong but corrected them in a short time. Kenny has been helping me out as of now getting the car running right. I didn’t put any washers on the WG or BOV so I think i have a vac leak there. As well as I think my rubber ring is not sitting right in the bov. The car feels strong and pulls pretty damn good if I can say so myself. Turbo spool is fast and kicks you right in the face with a wow! Kit install time total took around 7 hours or so with a buddy and me. We also stopped to eat etc and saved the oil pan for last (Meaning we had to wait an extra hour or so for it to dry) Id say anyone with decent mechanical skills could install this. All and All Id say this is a great kit for the weekend racer and also a great starter kit. I think these turbo’s are good for around 20 psi check with Kenny on that to make sure.
Special Thanks To
Kenny @ www.thescionstore.com
For an Awesome Kit!
#3
i'm not sure about this but the blue fittings that connect the pipe to your throttle body can be trimmed down. i looked at a picture from sciondad's tC and his pipe doesn't go as high as yours does. but i could be wrong.
by the way it's a nice kit and i wish i could afford one from them. maybe i'll have one someday
great job on the DIY tho
by the way it's a nice kit and i wish i could afford one from them. maybe i'll have one someday
great job on the DIY tho
#7
Do you have any gauges hooked up? I'd like to see what kind of A/F and EGT's you're seeing. Congrats on getting the kit, and appreciate all your write ups. Do you plan on getting an IC down the road?
#8
A little update my charge pipe is still hitting the firewall and hood causing serious vibrations threw out the car. I also come to find out the Gasket for the WG is blown and is now leaking exhaust all into the engine bay. There is also a vacuum leak somewhere or atleast i think there is because my bov isnt working properly and now my WG is spiking and sometimes creeping to 8-9psi, Under WOT the car is now sputtering almost feeling as if it wants to die... Today has been a turn for the worst, I have alot of stuff to fix ahead of me. Biggest thing will be the WG because of my WG to DP route I have to remove the whole setup off the car and loosen all the bolts. If I don't do this I wont be able to get the flanges to line up right...
To be Honest right now Im just worrying about not blowing the car up and getting it to run right
Originally Posted by JT_Scion
Do you have any gauges hooked up? I'd like to see what kind of A/F and EGT's you're seeing. Congrats on getting the kit, and appreciate all your write ups. Do you plan on getting an IC down the road?
#10
Nice write up.
As they mentioned in the Dezod post by Paul and Kenny - the tial wastegates are known for blowing. You could either run no gasket - or I think ZPI has a copper gasket replacement on their site for cheap.
As they mentioned in the Dezod post by Paul and Kenny - the tial wastegates are known for blowing. You could either run no gasket - or I think ZPI has a copper gasket replacement on their site for cheap.
#11
Originally Posted by mattssi
Nice write up.
As they mentioned in the Dezod post by Paul and Kenny - the tial wastegates are known for blowing. You could either run no gasket - or I think ZPI has a copper gasket replacement on their site for cheap.
As they mentioned in the Dezod post by Paul and Kenny - the tial wastegates are known for blowing. You could either run no gasket - or I think ZPI has a copper gasket replacement on their site for cheap.
#13
It's worth trying without the gasket. It's only exhaust so if it leaks a little no harm done then you just get the gasket anyway. I drove the car home from the shop with snapped bolt on the wastegate (so only 1 bolt was holding it on) and the car was fine. It was still holding until I dismantled the car...
#14
Originally Posted by mattssi
Have you thought about no gasket? I've heard you can run that w/out issues. This is what I'm going to try so I don't have to uninstall a few days later
#15
Probably best not to drive it hard to avoid those boost spikes while you are workin out these kinks... as i'm sure you're probably aware.. just lookin out so your car doesn't get messed up Trouble shooting vacuum leaks seems tricky.. hope you get it hammered out though.
p.s. for some reason the turbo looks alot smaller than i thought.. used to looking at T-88's on supras haha
What part of florida are you in Kaeon?
p.s. for some reason the turbo looks alot smaller than i thought.. used to looking at T-88's on supras haha
What part of florida are you in Kaeon?