amp power question......
ok i have a 600 watt mono amp for my subs (2 alpine 10's) and i want to but this amp,
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=2342
for my door speakers. so the question is can i use an 8g cable into a distribution block,
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=2773
then into both the amps?
p.s. dose anyone have any experence w/ woofersetc.com ? good/bad?
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=2342
for my door speakers. so the question is can i use an 8g cable into a distribution block,
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=2773
then into both the amps?
p.s. dose anyone have any experence w/ woofersetc.com ? good/bad?
If you are going to run subs, I would highly recommend finding a decent class d amp even if that amp is only 150W. The signal will be cleaner and not as sloppy making the bass sound tighter or more acurate. Here's a very cheap unit you can find (lowest price I've seen is $75 on ebay new in box).
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...facturerID=625
Another option would be to find a really good 3-channel amp and power the subs and just the front. Then you could save up some money for a great 4-channel amp to bi-amp the components in the front using the old 3-channel for the subs and rear. That will save you some money up front and give you a better system down the road.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...facturerID=625
Another option would be to find a really good 3-channel amp and power the subs and just the front. Then you could save up some money for a great 4-channel amp to bi-amp the components in the front using the old 3-channel for the subs and rear. That will save you some money up front and give you a better system down the road.
I disagree about the class D amp being cleaner they actually tend to have alot more distortion than a class A/B but they do make more raw power in a smaller package, thats why they are used for bass applications were distortion isnt as easily heard or recognized as distortion.
I have tested ( in a previos vehicle) a few different class D bass amps against an A/B of equal power and would take the A/B anyday...but i wasnt on a budget so that might make a difference
I have tested ( in a previos vehicle) a few different class D bass amps against an A/B of equal power and would take the A/B anyday...but i wasnt on a budget so that might make a difference
I like the class D amps better for low end. Yes you can do the A/B amps but you're more or less throwing away money for a section of frequency you will never use. Class D will be good from the bottom end to about 200Hz or so before distortion really kicks in. If you have a sub that is playing 200Hz, you need to reset your crossover points.
i all ready have the subs and mono amp hooked up with an 8g power cable they work fine my question was can i use the same 8g cable into a distribution block then to both amps with another 8g cable w/ Capacitor.
If you want to starve your amps of power or blow the fuse under the hood then use 8 g for both, but you would be better off using 4 g in to the distro block then running 8g to each amp, make sure they are short runs for the 8g, that is the minumum i would run. I know money does not grow on trees but your best bet would be to run a 4g to your mono amp and atleast an 8g, depending on the amp you get's power, to the mids and highs amp or get an 0 guage and distro to 4g so if you ever upgrade amps. Always better to plan ahead it will honestly save money in the long run. As for the amp you want to buy, name brands are always the best, customer reviews is allways a nice thing to read and guage facts on the amps and people that have owned them before, or consulting professional car stereo intallers like Violent B and i are and im sure alot of other guys on here are, cause we will never steer you wrong and we do this on a daily basis.
How is running 8g in and 8g out going to blow a fuse?
I agree though should always plan ahead. I would always start with atleast 4g wire leading to my battery. That usually allows for growth in time.
I agree though should always plan ahead. I would always start with atleast 4g wire leading to my battery. That usually allows for growth in time.
Well if he is trying to pull to much current threw his fuse it will blow,melt etc., unless he puts a bigger fuse in then he could melt his power wire and open a whole other can of worms. Dont do it at all is my advice, spend the money and do it right. Or your vehicle could pay the ultimate price.....
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