jayydm

iTrader: (2)

my CEL came back after 1000 miles and couldnt figure out why. When i put it up in the air the s pipe somehow started to unbolt but even since then its worked great. Thanks

ProjectGreen

So here is something along the same lines, but might be slightly different.

I have the Tusdo header and Mid-pipe going into the Dezod exhaust system. The car was running really rough and dying and the dealership said it is going into a safe mode because of the o2 sensors.

My mechanic, who is a good friend, told me to looking into a O2 simulator. However I am seeing a lot of talk about using the Anti-fowlers. My two questions are:

1) Which one is the best to use?

2) Where do I get said one?

I stopped coming to tC land on this site about a year ago because of fellow tC owners, it looks like the douches have left and people can post questions with out being flamed. Please do not let me down in this.

Kirby

engifineer

To clarify, does it continue to run poorly after a while? If you disconnected the battery for a while during install, it is perfectly normal for the car to run like crap for a bit. Drive it around for a while and the ECU will re-calibrate and it will smooth back out. I seriously doubt what your dealer told you. The second O2 has nothing to do with how the car runs. It is there solely to monitor the performance of the pre-cat in the header. When you run a header without the cat, it simply sets a code that means the precat is not doing its job. The AFR's are still taken from the primary O2. So as long as it is in tact, then the car will run fine. The anti-fouler is used simply to supress the code so the light wont be on all the time (so you will know if another code arises).

So:

1) If the light is on, check the codes and see which ones are set. If it is just the cat efficiency code then your car should run fine.

2) If you have not driven it much since you disconnected the battery, drive around for about 30 minutes or so (shutting off the car and restarting during that should help) and see if the idle comes back to normal.

If there are other codes set, tell us what they are and we can help diagnose them

This site is still filled with self-proclaimed know it all douche bag kids that know little more than to bolt on a part and call themselves a tuner, thus spouting out horrible misinformation. There are definitely less of them than there used to be though. I nearly stopped coming here altogether, but still know some cool people here. I still tend to go to other forums more though, since a lot of the more experienced people went there.

ProjectGreen

So the header has been on the vehicle for about a week and it is my Daily Driver. What is happening is when ever I stop the vehicle will sputter out and die.

I am not throwing a CEL, but the scanner at the dealership shows the ECU in a failsafe mode. When they started investigating it, they said, because of the header and the mid pipe, the O2 sensors were reading two drastically different numbers at idle and the engine shuts down to protect itself.

This is where my question about an o2 simulator comes in handy. My friend, who works at the dealership, said that he should be able to wire the front and rear sensor together on a simulator to read the same numbers. I would just need to upgrade my wide-band A/F gauge to a more advanced version so I can watch what is happening.

My other option is, I am getting 550cc injectors installed and the vehicle dynotuned. We can use the standalone unit to make the vehicle think it is never idling. However, I am not really liking that plan.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

engifineer

Well.. the primary and secondary should not read the same (that is what throws a code).. and one is used like a wideband while the other is not.. so I would not wire them together ;)

Your issue is not because of the header throwing the readings off. Like I said before, the system only cares that the cat is working.. it is not setting running parameters off the secondary reading (just telling you that the cat is not working), so they are not correct in what is causing your issue. Something else is going on.

kenshinta

I have my Fujita CAI, DC HEADER and Greedy Ti-c Exhaust. Was driving with Cel for the past 3 months, but its not happen anymore since yesterday. This antifouler works well... Let's see what happen in the future

jarvasdb1

Just out of curiosity, anyone here that has a 2009-up with aftermarket headers with this mod and it works? And yes I read all 12 pages. I guess it really doesn't matter what year it is. Just comfort for my brain. LOL!!!

jarvasdb1

Anyone have updates on this?

SpOkOmPtOn_TC

i have weapon r header/s-pipe, 2.5" exhaust, descendant manifold wit k&n filter and no cel issues. put evrything on around 18k and now have 47k on motor wit 2 trips back to az from wa state. oh and mines an 09' tc wit manual trans as well.

Puz06xB

The anti-fouler trick should work for any ODBII vehicle, this isn't just a Scion thing. But it's always good to know what code you're throwing first, P0420 is a good indicator that this fix will work for you. If you are getting a P0130, P2196, or P2195 then it's more likely you've got a bad 02 sensor. I was throwing the P0420, sensors checked out fine and the exhaust sys was/is solid (no leaks). SO, I cleaned the MAF, put in new plugs, PCV valve, cleaned K&N filter & cleared ECU, CEL came back. So, installed the anti-foulers on sensor 2 and no CEL for the past 300 mi. CEL usually comes back within 50 mi. Currently running stock exhaust on a 2006 xB but upgrading to a header and catback in about a week. Of course the cat could be going but there's no indication that it's cherry'd from getting to hot, sulfur/egg smell, or hard starts on mine.

psturm

Awesome info, I have done this to my dc sports header and it worked like a charm and has been for 2000 miles

sykotik616

My goes on and off all the time. I going with a weapon r fix.

jtazn728

i try that method and it didnt work, so i got rid of the headers

jtazn728

great write up i try a different method but it didn't work, now i going to try this

jarvasdb1

If you have the Megan header some people use additional anti foulers. I kept the original 2 since there's not much room to begin with. I just added a bunch of small washers I had laying around between the non drilled and drilled foulers. The idea is to restrict the flow to the sensor. The washers give it more obstacles for the air to go through. I've never had CEL pop up since day one of install. Hope this helps.

kyle28phillips

iTrader: (1)

I did this, however my check engine light cane back on after about a year. It's throwing exhaust related codes. Perhaps cleaning my O2 sensor will fix this?

Puz06xB

Sorry for the lag, haven't been on in a while, as you probably found out your O2's probably just need replaced. Cleaning the O2 sensors may work briefly but if you're running rich they'll just foul again. Or if they were new you got something else going on causing them to foul.

Update on my post from 2011 when I originally installed the Antifouler. I've run about 50,000+ miles CEL free since install, briefly ran the header I mentioned but it was a cheapo, cracked and never replaced so been running stock ever since. A week ago I popped a P0136 code, but the light went off on its own, then I cleared it from memory with the Torque App and it hasn't returened. Think at least sensor 2 is dying a slow death so picked up some new sensors off Amazon and will likely replace both in the coming weeks. I plan on installing sensor 2 back in the stock position without the antifouler just as a test to see if the original P0420 code comes back that led me to install the antifouler in the first place.

adam_ky

Anyone gave pics of the setup and drilled out antifouler