PC vs Professional Detailing
I've been reading some stuff about a PC and all, and I just don't think it'd be safe for me to get ahold of one. Knowing my luck, I'd make things a million times worse. So, I was gonna' go get my car detailed by a professional. Do you think that'd be a good idea? I wanted them to buff out the swirl marks I have, but I'm still kinda' afraid that they'll make the paint look worse.
So, which would you suggest?
So, which would you suggest?
bleh, #80 isnt strong enough to do really anything even via rotary.
In all seriousness, the only way you're going to damage your paint with a porter cable is if you stand back and chuck the machine at the car. i've taken the PC and used the most aggressive pad and polish combination that I own and just let the machine run on its fastest setting on one spot. It took almost an hour and several reapplications of polish to finally wear down through the clear and into the color coat.
PC + poorboy's polishes + decent pads = no more swirls! besides, toyota paint is easy to play with.
In all seriousness, the only way you're going to damage your paint with a porter cable is if you stand back and chuck the machine at the car. i've taken the PC and used the most aggressive pad and polish combination that I own and just let the machine run on its fastest setting on one spot. It took almost an hour and several reapplications of polish to finally wear down through the clear and into the color coat.
PC + poorboy's polishes + decent pads = no more swirls! besides, toyota paint is easy to play with.
Porter Cable 7424/7336 Polisher

The Porter Cable 7424 Basic incorporates a random, swirl-free polishing action that will not scratch or burn the paint or clear coat. An electronic variable speed control allows you to adjust the speed from 2,500 to 6,000 OPM. A heavy duty, 3.7 amp motor supplies plenty of torque and the machine is double insulated against shock. The hand grip can be screwed into either side making the polisher adaptable for right or left handed operators.

The Porter Cable 7424 Basic incorporates a random, swirl-free polishing action that will not scratch or burn the paint or clear coat. An electronic variable speed control allows you to adjust the speed from 2,500 to 6,000 OPM. A heavy duty, 3.7 amp motor supplies plenty of torque and the machine is double insulated against shock. The hand grip can be screwed into either side making the polisher adaptable for right or left handed operators.
This thread is from one of our other sponsored forums concerning the Porter Cable buffer.
http://ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72661
It is our most ordered item from the Tropi-Care website.
http://ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72661
It is our most ordered item from the Tropi-Care website.
Kimmy,
I've used both rotary and random orbital, as well as done
everything by hand for years now.
It's true it is difficult to hurt even the cheap azz Scion paint
with the PC, but what you really should be asking yourself is:
Are you willing to put in the hours needed to do the job yourself?
You spend a couple a hundred on gear, research for days how
to do it all, and take your time the first time you do it...
4-6 hours later you're like "I'm never fraken doing THAT again".
Or, 4-6 hours later you might be like "wow, what a workout,
Grab the camera!"
With some practice you can get the work down to a couple of
hours. But there is a reason detail shops charge in excess of
$125 for a full detail. It's because the washing, claying,
cleaning, polishing, waxing, detailing, vacuuming, shampooing,
and final touches takes about 6-8 hours even at an experienced shop.
I *love* detailing my box, but it does wear on you.
Are you prepared for that?
I've used both rotary and random orbital, as well as done
everything by hand for years now.
It's true it is difficult to hurt even the cheap azz Scion paint
with the PC, but what you really should be asking yourself is:
Are you willing to put in the hours needed to do the job yourself?
You spend a couple a hundred on gear, research for days how
to do it all, and take your time the first time you do it...
4-6 hours later you're like "I'm never fraken doing THAT again".
Or, 4-6 hours later you might be like "wow, what a workout,
Grab the camera!"
With some practice you can get the work down to a couple of
hours. But there is a reason detail shops charge in excess of
$125 for a full detail. It's because the washing, claying,
cleaning, polishing, waxing, detailing, vacuuming, shampooing,
and final touches takes about 6-8 hours even at an experienced shop.
I *love* detailing my box, but it does wear on you.
Are you prepared for that?
Originally Posted by Lonely_Raven
Kimmy,
I've used both rotary and random orbital, as well as done
everything by hand for years now.
It's true it is difficult to hurt even the cheap azz Scion paint
with the PC, but what you really should be asking yourself is:
Are you willing to put in the hours needed to do the job yourself?
You spend a couple a hundred on gear, research for days how
to do it all, and take your time the first time you do it...
4-6 hours later you're like "I'm never fraken doing THAT again".
Or, 4-6 hours later you might be like "wow, what a workout,
Grab the camera!"
With some practice you can get the work down to a couple of
hours. But there is a reason detail shops charge in excess of
$125 for a full detail. It's because the washing, claying,
cleaning, polishing, waxing, detailing, vacuuming, shampooing,
and final touches takes about 6-8 hours even at an experienced shop.
I *love* detailing my box, but it does wear on you.
Are you prepared for that?
I've used both rotary and random orbital, as well as done
everything by hand for years now.
It's true it is difficult to hurt even the cheap azz Scion paint
with the PC, but what you really should be asking yourself is:
Are you willing to put in the hours needed to do the job yourself?
You spend a couple a hundred on gear, research for days how
to do it all, and take your time the first time you do it...
4-6 hours later you're like "I'm never fraken doing THAT again".
Or, 4-6 hours later you might be like "wow, what a workout,
Grab the camera!"
With some practice you can get the work down to a couple of
hours. But there is a reason detail shops charge in excess of
$125 for a full detail. It's because the washing, claying,
cleaning, polishing, waxing, detailing, vacuuming, shampooing,
and final touches takes about 6-8 hours even at an experienced shop.
I *love* detailing my box, but it does wear on you.
Are you prepared for that?
i would ask around to see who did a good detailing job, and then go and talk to them....ask to see there work. I too have time issues and a good detail is woth the money in time savings. But make sure they have a good client list and is not some kid trying to make a buck on the side. they should steam clean the engine bay, even the bottom of the car, do the interior, and of course the exterior, ask them if they will clay bar the car prior to waxing it.
but in your situation i would say have it done, i spent 9 hours doing two of my cars, and still have another one to do.....
but in your situation i would say have it done, i spent 9 hours doing two of my cars, and still have another one to do.....
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