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PC vs Professional Detailing

Old Apr 21, 2006 | 03:33 AM
  #1  
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Default PC vs Professional Detailing

I've been reading some stuff about a PC and all, and I just don't think it'd be safe for me to get ahold of one. Knowing my luck, I'd make things a million times worse. So, I was gonna' go get my car detailed by a professional. Do you think that'd be a good idea? I wanted them to buff out the swirl marks I have, but I'm still kinda' afraid that they'll make the paint look worse.

So, which would you suggest?
Old Apr 22, 2006 | 01:37 AM
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Useing a pc is very safe it wont burn through paint like a rotary buffer can
get a pc and some mild polish like meguiars #80 and a polishing pad and take your time you wont hurt it
Old Apr 22, 2006 | 03:13 AM
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bleh, #80 isnt strong enough to do really anything even via rotary.

In all seriousness, the only way you're going to damage your paint with a porter cable is if you stand back and chuck the machine at the car. i've taken the PC and used the most aggressive pad and polish combination that I own and just let the machine run on its fastest setting on one spot. It took almost an hour and several reapplications of polish to finally wear down through the clear and into the color coat.

PC + poorboy's polishes + decent pads = no more swirls! besides, toyota paint is easy to play with.
Old Apr 23, 2006 | 02:26 AM
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porter cable rocks
Old Apr 23, 2006 | 04:18 AM
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i gotta buy one of those...
Old Apr 23, 2006 | 10:02 PM
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Okay, I realize a PC is great and all, but I still don't trust myself with one, lol.

Do you guys think a professional could get the swirls out, without marring my paint to hell?
Old Apr 23, 2006 | 10:07 PM
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just get the pc its foolproof
Old Apr 23, 2006 | 10:15 PM
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What is a PC and how does it differ from a rotary buffer?
Old Apr 23, 2006 | 10:21 PM
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Porter Cable 7424/7336 Polisher

The Porter Cable 7424 Basic incorporates a random, swirl-free polishing action that will not scratch or burn the paint or clear coat. An electronic variable speed control allows you to adjust the speed from 2,500 to 6,000 OPM. A heavy duty, 3.7 amp motor supplies plenty of torque and the machine is double insulated against shock. The hand grip can be screwed into either side making the polisher adaptable for right or left handed operators.
Old Apr 26, 2006 | 12:33 AM
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This thread is from one of our other sponsored forums concerning the Porter Cable buffer.

http://ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72661

It is our most ordered item from the Tropi-Care website.
Old Apr 27, 2006 | 06:36 PM
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Kimmy,

I've used both rotary and random orbital, as well as done
everything by hand for years now.

It's true it is difficult to hurt even the cheap azz Scion paint
with the PC, but what you really should be asking yourself is:
Are you willing to put in the hours needed to do the job yourself?

You spend a couple a hundred on gear, research for days how
to do it all, and take your time the first time you do it...
4-6 hours later you're like "I'm never fraken doing THAT again".

Or, 4-6 hours later you might be like "wow, what a workout,
Grab the camera!"

With some practice you can get the work down to a couple of
hours. But there is a reason detail shops charge in excess of
$125 for a full detail. It's because the washing, claying,
cleaning, polishing, waxing, detailing, vacuuming, shampooing,
and final touches takes about 6-8 hours even at an experienced shop.

I *love* detailing my box, but it does wear on you.

Are you prepared for that?
Old Apr 28, 2006 | 05:44 PM
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Any monkey can use a PC ... but as the above post states, it's ALOT of work and some people just can't stand it.
Old Apr 30, 2006 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Lonely_Raven
Kimmy,

I've used both rotary and random orbital, as well as done
everything by hand for years now.

It's true it is difficult to hurt even the cheap azz Scion paint
with the PC, but what you really should be asking yourself is:
Are you willing to put in the hours needed to do the job yourself?

You spend a couple a hundred on gear, research for days how
to do it all, and take your time the first time you do it...
4-6 hours later you're like "I'm never fraken doing THAT again".

Or, 4-6 hours later you might be like "wow, what a workout,
Grab the camera!"

With some practice you can get the work down to a couple of
hours. But there is a reason detail shops charge in excess of
$125 for a full detail. It's because the washing, claying,
cleaning, polishing, waxing, detailing, vacuuming, shampooing,
and final touches takes about 6-8 hours even at an experienced shop.

I *love* detailing my box, but it does wear on you.

Are you prepared for that?
That's the thing- I don't have that much time. I have a job- I work between 12 and 16 hours a day, and I don't have an extra 4 hours to spend detailing my car. There's no way. That's why I was asking if a professional would ruin my paint worse than it is now. I've seen botched up detailing jobs and I'm kinda' iffy on going.
Old Apr 30, 2006 | 06:42 PM
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i would ask around to see who did a good detailing job, and then go and talk to them....ask to see there work. I too have time issues and a good detail is woth the money in time savings. But make sure they have a good client list and is not some kid trying to make a buck on the side. they should steam clean the engine bay, even the bottom of the car, do the interior, and of course the exterior, ask them if they will clay bar the car prior to waxing it.
but in your situation i would say have it done, i spent 9 hours doing two of my cars, and still have another one to do.....
Old Apr 30, 2006 | 08:03 PM
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I found a good detailer, so I'm hoping that he'll do an awesome job. Getting it done next weekend.
Old Apr 30, 2006 | 08:40 PM
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what did he charge? what does that price include..........j/k
Old Apr 30, 2006 | 08:41 PM
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Don't forget to post pix, some before and some after. And let us know if your'e happy.
Old May 1, 2006 | 12:26 AM
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i have used a craftsman for 10 years and never had a single issue....ill have to check out the p/c....
its probably time to get a new buffer anyways.
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