I was gonna use them as ambient lighting for my interior, but if someone wants to use them as fogs then that would take authority over mine!

 

how long are they?

 

9LEDs each

 

Ballpark length?

 

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...&postcount=596

so like 6"

 

46" TV fints in a lil tc just fine, 55 woulda fit as well




about to install the rotors!

 

Rotors and extended studs!

 

I wanna see em behind the wheeeeelz

 

Man those are nice. You didn't weigh them by chance did you?

 

haha stock wheels arent open enough but with nissan rays it looks awesome!


i weighed the new ones, but haven weighed the old ones yet

 

and now, treasure chest of DIYs!

 

hey, I know you've removed your emblems, but how do you take them off?

 

which ones?

front, rear, tC?

front and rear done by a shop, $600/$150 front/rear

tC debadged myself

front just pops off with a knife, tC just use a hair dryer and pull it off

 

all of them. I'm replacing them. How does the rear one on the garnish come off?

 

u have to remove all the hatch trim then you will see like 5 bolts holding the garnish in place. The emblem itself if attached with a double sided tape

 

Best. DIY. Ever!!!!!

 

why did you replace the wheel studs? nice diy

 

Gah! I hate my voice! Oh well I did have a sore throat, haha, I'm the one in the first video.

A few notes:

Part 2: Notice we didn't need to even remove the brake pads since we weren't changing them. If you pull the bracket off straight they can stay nestled into it; less to fiddle with when you put it back together.

Part 4: We used a dead-blow hammer, which isn't as bouncy as a rubber mallet, and also preferred over a steel hammer because it can't damage things easily and causes less shock.

Part 5: "But first we need to secure this... So it doesn't... ____." I suggest using a wrench you rarely use in case this method bends it slightly, we used a 13mm because they're not used on our Japanese cars. You don't have to use a wrench, it was just an easy option, and remember don't do both sides at once because you can't brace it like this. Using a washer between the nut and stud is highly recommended since we ran into an issue with one of them where the nut and stud actually started to weld to each other from friction--also be sure not to use power tool because the likelihood of that it much greater!

Part 6: It's also advisable to use brake cleaner on the braking surface because rotors often come with a thin layer of oil to prevent rust. These ones didn't seem to, but brake cleaner wasn't available to us at the time either. I'm told this is critical so as not to contaminate the brake pads, but other sources have said if it's just a small amount it'll get burnt off.

Part 7: I found the torque specs for the front brakes. They're from the first gen but the hardware looks identical. Caliper bolts 25 fl-lbs, bracket bolts 79 ft-lbs.

By the way, official lug nut torque spec is 76 ft-lbs.

 

ill be using a 5mm spacer and the new wheels are either thicker at the mounting point or have some unusable gaps that leave very little thread left to secure the wheel

 

Yet another set of awesome DIY's by Yuri!