RoboTuner

Hey SL members/mods, I've been searching and searching through numerous threads and can't seem to find anyone having the same issue I have been having for a long time, and my OEM warranty runs out in 2,6xx miles.

Now for the problem, I have an 08 5 speed tC with 57,3xx miles on it, and I'm the 3rd owner, and bought it from Auction Direct in Victor, NY. When I bought it the CEL came on for emissions and they wanted to tear apart the engine and after I convinced them to have a Scion dealership check it, found out it needed a new gas cap. Needless to say they will never touch this car while in my hands.

I bought the car in Jan of 2012 with 38,xxx miles and in great condition, but since around march the clutch has been acting weird, after car has been sitting and not driven for a while (4+hours) and you start to drive, the clutch has almost no tolerance between engagement/disengagement and makes it almost impossible to start off the first 2-3 gears without either spinning tires (wet or dry pavement) or nearly stalling out. Now the really weird part comes in, after you drive the car for at least 10-15 miles the temper-mental engagement doesn't occur until the car sits again for 4+ hours, and this problem is more aggressive the colder the outside temperature when you start off.

I've tried adjusting to how I use the clutch when it is acting up, but I can't seem to find a work around, and I can't show anyone due to it only happening for such a intermittent time span. My uncle drove it, after it had been driven 50+ miles, and couldn't get the problem to occur and drove it hard and it had zero issues, and actually took the roughness like a joke and went all out.

If ANYONE has ideas that could cause these issues PLEASE reply as to how I might be able to approach this. I have read the issues with others having hydraulic system issues but they couldn't even use their clutch, and the fluid change with 75w-90 seemed to simple even though I'm tempted to try it soon. And just to remind people the colder the weather when you start driving (NY State) the worse it gets and I don't have the money to pay labor and parts if the tranny drops out while driving. The Toyota/Scion dealer said I have until 60K for my OEM to still cover it, except for the wear items (pressure plate, clutch disc, etc).

Sorry for such a long post but this is making me extremely nervous and I don't even have the money for and apartment, but my family is willing to help out if the car needs to be repaired/worked on, and it's STOCK with aftermarket wheels when I bought it.

I'm going to try a poll for possible problems for a convenience to members viewing the thread, hopefully it isn't a problem.

Thanks and have fun, I can't wait until I have money for my boost and the like.

my06tc

iTrader: (2)

can you feel the clutch engagement point,like if you slowly lift off the clutch,can you feel it grab..

for the cel.....did you have the computer check for codes and did it come back as a possible loose or bad gas cap,if so did you fix it....

its possible to have a bad clutch,i myself my stock went out at 55k,there was no meat on the clutch disc,preventing the clutch from grabing nicely,

RoboTuner

Well I guess I should have also mentioned that when I have the problem, as soon as I let out of the clutch it almost instantly grabs, but when it is done having its fit, I only get about 1/2 inch or so before the clutch starts grabbing from the floor. My friend who has an 07 with I.H.E. doesn't have this "instant" grab when normally driving (it feels like he has ~2 inches before his clutch even starts to grab) and he hasn't changed his clutch either.

And for the CEL, that was fixed just after it started. I was just stating that so members would have an idea that there may/may not have had anything else wrong with the car prior to purchasing, though I have yet to find anything else besides this trans BS. Though the aftermarket wheels the were on the car when I bought it make my speedo read higher than I'm actually driving (17" rims with 205/40R tires, came on the car)

athletefeet66

iTrader: (1)

Thats how my aftermarket clutch acted, I had the ACT street disk and it significantly changed the engagement point and feel. Does it slip at all when you are starting off in first gear or does it grab instantly? A stock clutch should slip easily when disengaging the clutch. Is it hard to shift it into gear when the clutch it depressed? Or is the clutch harder to push than your friend's tc?

Sounds like the previous owner just put an aftermarket clutch in it.

RoboTuner

I highly doubt either of the 2 owners before me had done anything besides the wheels (for the lower profile look) to this car, the wheels and a blue led in the rear seat where the only NON-FACTORY parts on the car visible, not even any signs of someone swaping parts anywhere (CAI, etc). The problem is that is doesn't always drive like this, only after it hasn't been driven for a few hours (4+) and in cold temperatures (<70). The pedal feel never changes (slightly stiff long throw, stock?) but the engagement changes during those weird scenarios. Another related question, do all stock tc clutches have the same pedal feel (one long throw, or a "two stage" feel like the 1st 1/2 is stiff then the 2nd 1/2 is very soft/easy)?

Roller_Toaster

iTrader: (1)

I removed a small hydraulic piece from my clutch system (it was bolted to the transmission itself) when installing my custom SS clutch line. Mine feels very similar to how you are describing.

Apparently, it helps the clutch act much more "friendly". I would check to see if there is an odd looking device attached to your tranny. Just follow your clutch line from your master cylinder, it will be easy to spot if it is there.

RoboTuner

I'll check that mod out after I figure out why this problem is only intermittent. Is the piece you are describing attached to the trans have a bolt with a (black) cap on its end facing toward the rad?

RoboTuner

BUMP!!!

Anyone?

That_Kid_Ju

Almost sounds like an upgraded clutch. Mine was tough as s%*t when I first got it. Stalled almost everytime in 1st or 2nd gears until I got used to the pedal feel and engagement point. There's no real way to tell if the clutch is stock or aftermarket without dropping the trans.

RoboTuner

Would a carfax tell me if any parts where changed (by a shop of course)?

That_Kid_Ju

Only if it was reported. Usually Carfax only reports accidents reported to insurance, dealer servicing and repairs, etc. Aftermarket items aren't reported in my experience.

Has the clutch always done that from day 1? Since you've been driving since January, you should have gotten used to the feel by now (assuming it is an upgraded clutch). If the feel varies everytime and under varying conditions, it may be worth getting it looked at. Better to be safe than sorry.

You can try contacting Toyota to see if they'll give you a detailed servicing report on the car since you're not the original owner. Maybe you'll find something there.

my06tc

iTrader: (2)

i know a stock scion tc clutch,it like almost 2-3 inches of play before engages,i myself have a act clutch,when i put it in,clutch was so stiff,i didnt wanna drive the car,but engagement was at the floor,but i ajusted the master cylinder rod,to where i have at least 2 inch of comfortable play,so i can drive the car easier,but ive also read that,scion cluth engagement points, seem to change by itself sometimes,usually a sign of a master cylinder going bad

RoboTuner

How do you adjust that, I cannot seem to find out a detailed how-to for that. Other users have reported that what you are suggesting can sometimes help or pin point the problem more closely.

Drey

iTrader: (4)

I have an 08 tC as well with Competition Clutch flywheel and stage 4 clutch installed at 18k miles. The only problem I had is MC went out @ 60100miles lol so I couldn't get it fixed under the warranty. But yeah it does sound like you have aftermarket clutch that needed to be adjusted. My stage 4 grabs about an inch off the floor. You can mess around with your push rod behind the clutch pedal. Set it to longest as possible , that should raise your engagment point a little. Check brake fluid level also. You never know what the car had done to it when buying used. Ive seen a lot of havy modified cars been returned back to stock. Clutch is just too much problem to swap it back to stock.

RoboTuner

BUMP!!!


I'm at 58,2xx miles and have an appointment with the dealer to get the MC/SC replaced, I told them I will NOT approve work done to the clutch itself or any "wear" items, I've been in before to ask questions on this subject and they just keep playing the dealer role "well it COULD be this or that, but to really find out we have to look at it.

I've been told the clutch is probably bad if it slips in 5th accelerating under 20mph, but it would just keep chugging along. Someone earlier suggested adjusting a piece near the hydraulic arm just outside the trans, or the rod behind the pedal. This is not just a engagement point issue alone, but a possible danger as of a few days ago (my computer got a virus and I finally got it off) when I am slowing down and push the clutch in and press the brake, sometimes (usually over any rough surface) abs activates and makes me slide/skid/etc. a few dangerous feet extra (almost rear ended someone in the rain one day).

Conclusion: I can drive like an old lady with minimal accel and have issues (great mpg), drive with moderate accel (city/highway) still have issues (moderate mpg), or drive is hard enough the wheels spin in 1st and 2nd and have those same issues (bad mpg), but the problem never actually becomes worse (when accelerating).

I think my baby hates me tuners and noobs.

RoboTuner

BUMP

So I took it to the dealer and they checked the master/slave clutch cylinder and found no leaks, or low fluids. They did say that the only other possible thing they could think of that could be causing it is clutch wear. They "think" that because I didn't authorize them to drop the transmission to check the clutch, so I'm sitting here at 58,4xx miles and wondering if I should just start saving everything for a new clutch?

If this is going to be the problem to be fixed, any recommendations or warnings on a clutch kit to buy/not buy? I want to be boosting in the near future but I basics before extras...and if I'm going to be replacing the clutch (2 previous owners), where can I find a e351 final drive syncro and a good LSD (hopefully under 1G)?

o TaGGeD o

iTrader: (2)

My money is on the clutch my tc is an 07 and my clutch went out at 46,700 miles had the car for two weeks these cars with minor mods eat stock clutches like candy man I replaced it with OEM because dealer agreed to pay half I'm sitting at 95k now and it's starting to do it again so today I'm ordering my ACT street series