~ 200hp w/o F/I?
Originally Posted by soros151
Originally Posted by SandMPerformance
theres still the fact that some of the minority still speaks up
Originally Posted by TCpete
Originally Posted by soros151
Originally Posted by SandMPerformance
theres still the fact that some of the minority still speaks up
What did ppl expect. Stupid questions get stupid answers. If u think something has already been covered in another post, which always happens, then SEARCH IT!
Well, I work at a car dealership w/ a bunch of grease monkeys (
), and the subject came up about building up my motor instead of going FI.
I have never seen a post about N/A numbers except for those with I/H/E, so that led to this post.
I was curious as to what kind of work I would be looking at. I like the idea of N/A over F/I, just as a personal preference.
I have never seen a post about N/A numbers except for those with I/H/E, so that led to this post.
I was curious as to what kind of work I would be looking at. I like the idea of N/A over F/I, just as a personal preference.
Hey pete bere with me im new to this whole 2az thing im use to building sr20det sr20ve etc, ive been doing some research on your car your setup is pretty damn impressive
. Now since you know the motor very well i was wondering if you think that the 2az would be a good high compression boost motor. the setup i was considering
10:0:1 compression
rods
apr head studs
port polish
valve springs retainers
equal length manifold
gt30r
trd lsd
3inch exhaust
10:0:1 compression
rods
apr head studs
port polish
valve springs retainers
equal length manifold
gt30r
trd lsd
3inch exhaust
why would you wana up the compression for boost? typically on built motors lower compression is the way to go...
your list is fine but defenitely either stay stock compression or go lower with a good sleeved block with a block guard. you wont need the LSD unless you really wana blow the money. head studs are a must for anything over 310-330+ whp daily...
waste your money more on the ems and not the lsd..
your list is fine but defenitely either stay stock compression or go lower with a good sleeved block with a block guard. you wont need the LSD unless you really wana blow the money. head studs are a must for anything over 310-330+ whp daily...
waste your money more on the ems and not the lsd..
well from my experience with high compression boost i yeilded high numbers at lower boost. i dont wanna run 90psi jk but i wanna make good numbers at around 10-11psi no more no less. ive been reading the compressor maps for the gt30r i should be able to reach my goal and far as ems im thinking maybe electromotive tech 3 or aem.
i suggest the AEM.. for sure.. ...yea HC will get you better numbers but arent you going to be increasing pressure to much and not so much volume to create the TQ u need to psh you along?...i mean i dunno im not a boost guy but i figure going from 9.6 to 10 isnt really a huge jump ...your better off just staying stock compression but with better pistons.. out piston rings are very very very high and are prone to blow and cause problem.. im think with a 9.0 or 8.5 compession it might be better. or even stock... u may want to jump into the FI section and ask..
well your right about the rings they are set kinda high. im thinking as long as i get a good tune i should be ok. The tricky thing about HC boost is that you have a damn good tune there is little room for error. Ive worked on similar setup with a sr20ve it yielding some insane number but thats a whole other ball game.
Originally Posted by TCpete
Originally Posted by weeloTC
is everyone serious, your telling me that it takes all that to make 200 bph, a complete motor rebuild, all that is needed is some decent head and intake work, a good i/h/e setup, and a re-map of the stock ecu and 200 at the craank is no problem, this site doesnt have that many guys that are really into racing, but if you go out there and search online, you'll see that there are guys pushing 200 with a stock bottom-end. unless you just want to go that route, theres no reason to do so unless you plan on pushing some serious hp, but 200 isnt that crazy
stock the motor is what 145-150 maybe actual WHP on a manual tc... ok lets add the basics... I/H/E your lookeding at what 165-175 on average with GOOD PARTS NOT EBAY SHIZ...ok so now u have 30+ on average more whp to gain.. your going to tell me your gonna gain 30+ HP on a 4 cylinder from just head work and tuning alone on this head and motor with its low compression 9.6 bottom.. YOUR FULL OF IT... your going to get around 10-15 maybe even 20 if your lucky whp from a FULL HEAD upgrade (p&p, new valves, retainers, valve springs all oversized to match) + if you tell me all i need after that are some cams THEN YOUR REALLY FULL OF IT... since our motor operates on timing and not lift.. ok so then what after a head upgrade your looking what a good 17X-194 (thats gracious IMO on my poart to say that) range and now you looking to make up another 10+ from adding timing and fuel on an engine thats low revving and maxed out SUUUUUREEEEE... theres only so much timing u can give before you here a nice PING and now ur screwed because your knocking and have to retard timing to get it back from PINGING... ok so after all that were are you going to scrounge up the left over whp to berak 200??? u cant.. you've already done more then enough to the top before your forced to break into the bottom.... and the only other thing left to do before breaking the bottom is either A) ITB setup or B) a new intake manifold with really long runners in which we have very little room to work with in case you havent checked the clearance from the firewall to the intake manifold which is why its shapped the way it is...
yea bro ok.. IM BEGGING YOU to show me stock bottom end tc's breaking 200 WHP.. on a tune and head upgrade with I/H/E ....






