Okey well I finally have all the parts I need to do my swap. Yes I realize I could've bought another car in a manual but I plan on keeping my tC for a long time plus I was going to find another 05 RS1 tCs have 37k. I tried to cut cost and go with as much low mileage stuff I could. I think if I went 100% the stock route it wouldve most likely cost $1500, I am turbo'd so I went a little further. Well here's stuff you will need.

Transmission-$400 (For Sale Now)

Pedals (31k)- $34.99

Shifter Cage and Cable Lines $34.99

Master and Slave Cylinder $30.99


ACT Clutch (You Will Need 6 OEM Bolts)


Fidanza Flywheel (You Will Need 8 OEM Bolts- Longer then the A/T


Stuff you DO NOT have to have but I wanted to do it like OEM
Left Driveshaft- $45.99


Center Console $39.99


$42 Well spent on Doc I's site for cable and cage bushing combo set.

With changing out the ECU ans Engine Harness you will not throw a code.
05 Engine Harness $200


05 MT ECU with 7k $59.99


Manual Gauges- $79.99 (Changing these gets rid of the 1-2-3-D-N-R, BUT
these have to be sent to toyota so they can put the right mileage on them if your going this route)

TRD Shift **** $45.99


Now I went a much further and bought a brand new built transmission by TPR in Ohio and had the Quaife LSD done by them.


Also went and bought the transmission mounts all the way around brand new with nuts and bolts.

Techna-Fit Stainless Steel Clutch Line


B&M Short Shifter


Energy Suspension Motor and Tranny Mounts



I went further then most people on parts I do realize. I ended up buy all brand new mounts all the way around and any nut and bolt to them also any other bolt or nut I was missing I bought such as for the slave cylinder, clutch pedal, throw out bearing, clips for the cable lines. So for stock parts it cost me about $500. If you went and did this just with OEM parts off eBAY, Craigslist, Junkyards you should have no problem spending $1000 - $1500.

A lot of people don't know how to mount the clutch pedal, it mounts right to the master cylinder for your clutch you just have to drill 3 holes into your firewall There is a spot thats already there for you on the automatic its just an oval shape next to your brake pedal.

Total build on my part is just under $3500

Koyo Radiator


Stant Radiator Cap


M/T Pedals

 

Obviously you have to take interior pieces out the shifter bezel, hvac, center console. In the engine bay take out your wipers and such Strut Brace if you have one. (If you need DIYS for these, probably should just stop on this thread)



The Brake Pedal unbolts at the top, your just switching the arm, and is a direct fit. (2 Bolts, 14mm each side)


The Clutch Pedal is a lot harder to mount it involves cutting 3 holes into the firewall, there is a place for it shown- your making the holes for the master cylinder to fit through







The shifter cable for the auto unbolts from the outside and inside the car- 2 10 mm bolts inside and a single bolt on the outside. 4 14mm Bolts Hold the shifter In Place. Run the cables to the manual transmission.

 

Getting the automatic transmission is the difficult part, obviously. Take out the Battery, Battery Tray, starter unclip everything that goes to the transmission. Brace the motor because 3/4 of the motor mounts are on the transmission. The whole subframe has to come out, the axle nuts you'll need a deep 30mm socket (expensive and hard to find), then both drive axles get punched out, and a good transmission jack will be your best friend as it is 2x as heavy as the manual. If you have access to a lift that is your best bet.

A/T Out



Flywheel In. (8 Bolts) Purchase from the dealership they are longer then the bolts from the automatic


Clutch In (6 Bolts) Purchase from the Dealership


Transmission up and In

 

Hold Spot

 

This is pretty legit. Makes me consider a 5 speed swap. But I really don't want to drive a stick shift in Cleveland, OH. Especially with the drivers here always pulling right up to you.

 

did u get this working with a MT ecu?

 

Sounds like you did it right!

One of my students at autocross school a couple weeks ago had a turbo tC w/o a limited slip diff. A waste of power. He kept spinning one wheel...

I'm glad you are not afraid of your dealership!

 

Sorry guys I'm being lazy and slowly updating this, if you follow me on facebook i have it all there. I haven't been able to start my car as I am waiting for my pipes and intercooler to come back from powdercoating and anodizing so it's been 3 weeks of waiting for the intercooler..... and they told me this week I should be able to come get them so that was a mistake by sending them out bc I could have started this weeks ago. O well.

And I work at my local stealership, so access to a lift and help from a tech was very useful in getting the transmission out.

The car lets me power up everything (windows, gauges, hvac) but as stated havent been able to start it w.o the missing parts and thats with a M/T Engine harness and M/T ECU.

 

did u do the weird immobilizer trick to get it with the mt ecu going.

 

didnt need to swapped the engine harness

 

didnt need to swapped the engine harness

 

anyone know the writeup for the imobilizer trick?

 

madd delay but u just put the key in turn it to accessories and let it sit for 35mins