Does anyone know of a bigger alternator that can be put in the tc?????? I am tryin to look for one and haven't been real knowledgeable on the subject.

 

for what reason would you want a bigger alternator?

You could also run the NST accessory pullies to get a 20% overdrive on your alternator...

 

Well i got a 1600 watt sytem, in my car and imy lights dim real bad everytime my subs hit, and eventually i wanna get an hid kit so i just wanna take care of the problem early, and wont the overdrive on the alternator put a strain on it and make it go out faster????

 

wouldnt an alternator the last option ?

im not a audio guro but do you have a capacitor ?

what size power gauge ur using ?

what type of battery ?

consider mounting more batteries in your trunk ?

 

the overdrive alternator is actually supposed to counter act this issue....

 

so how do i put it into overdrive mode then????

 

with the NST accessory pullies. I don' t know which belt you would use though :\ That would probably take a bit of research, unless NST, which probably would know.

Try NSTonAIM His name is Mike and he's always willing to help out.

 

sweeet man thanks, but just incase there is another option out there, anyone else feel free to input ur info

 

check the website www.4alterstart.com

I ordered one awhile back for my honda accord, 180 amp I think, when my factory one bit the dust. I also had one made for my 97 altima even though they don't have it listed as an application. They custom wound one with a smaller (overdrive) pully for about $240, but that was a few years ago. Email them and see if they can do the same for you. Also let them know that there is interest on this website. Maybe they'd be willing to do a groupbuy. Just FYI, many honda accord guys have ordered alternators from them with excellent results.

And one more thing, with that kind of power and if you listen to loud music, you will most likely need an alternator sooner or later. With both a 1500W rms and 200W RMS amp, my accord alternator dies in about 6 months.

 

As for the alternator being the last thing is exactly backwards. You always want to start with the main thing in a charging system. Now most people start with batteries, caps stuff like that because they are cheaper. They are bandaids as I like to call them. The alternator IS the charging system. The battery is there to start the car and have some back up. I use a company called Ohio Generator. I am going to call them and see what they can do with a tC alternator. I just havent had the time.
I am in the same situation on my car. The lights dim. But I dont beat on mine alot so that is fine with me for now. As for the rest of my system though. I am running a yellow top Optima battery, 1/0 wire, 100 farad cap and it still dims. So like I said before the alternator is the most important peice. They just cost the most.

 

yeah thats is what i thought and on top of that with more parts like an HID kit, and maybe cathodes down the way wont that even do more damage?????? Bigg J did u really mean to type a 100 farad cap??? or a 10.0 farad cap????Never heard of one being that big, i got a 4 farad but i want to get a big alt to make sure i don't have any more probs along the way

 

A cap serves to dampen transient current draw (current peaks). But remember, a cap is ANOTHER LOAD that you are placing on your alternator. It can help reduce dimming suring bass notes, but your overall current draw over a long period of time will actually increase slightly from a cap. Not extremely significant, but like it was said earlier, a cap will only mask the real issue. Another thing to note is that your alternator is not supplying its max current while idleing. Maximum output usually occurs at nearly 2000 rpm. This is why you usually notice dimming lights while stopped and not so much while moving.

Ohio Generator is very good BTW, but it ain't cheap.

 

First step ALWAYS, Big 3 upgrade. Remember the old rule about grounds always being as least as big as your power leads? Well, when you put in the blinging stereo with the power cable the size of garden hose, all of the factory wiring remained the same... meaning 8ga or 6ga for power and grounds.

On a completely stock electrical system, a capacitor will only serve to make matters worse.

 

I have went through and changed all my grounds. I redid all the ones off the battery, block and then added a bunch of 8 gauge grounds all over.
Yes mine is a 100 farad cap. here is the link to it.
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...0&locale=en_US

 

Im in if somebody can set up a group buy! Optima yellow top, big three and 0g power wire and the dimming is still pretty bad.

 

Just to chime in, on the HID kit most only draw 35 watts a side so that is less than your stock beams right now, you might want to check your local yellow pages too, I had a stock alternator rewound by a local shop to give me a boost, too many years back to remember the specifics on output or cost but it was when I was in high school so I know it was cheaper than buying a high amp model

 

don't forget, the shorter the power cable from the battery to the amp means the better. I had dimming lights in my camry couple years back when I first got into car audio. amps were in the trunk. upgraded alt, batt, and moved amps under front seats. No more dimming. EVER! of course the alt only lasted two years... booo