clutch help
The problem started a few days ago. Sometimes it would be easy to get into gear. Other days I find myself forcing it into gear. Finally yesterday it just stopped going into gear. The clutch is all the way up, but when I try to go into first gear it acts as if I never pushed the clutch in. I'm hopeing its a minor problem. Any suggestions? And if possible give me kind of an idea of how much it would cost me to get it repaired. Thanks.
^^x2 How many miles are on the car.....if it's been more than about 80,000 miles of everyday wear and tear or even if its been fewer miles but you've done some hard driving/launches, it's probably time to get a new clutch.....Occasionally, it might be a transmission gear synchro that needs to be replaced as well (relatively cheap part)....but it's usually just that the clutch disk needs replacing......I'd recommend the TRD kit as a replacement.....here is the link with the best price from TRDsparks:
http://trdsparks.com/displayparts.ph...1&parts_id=430.
At this point, once you have the new clutch kit, you can replace it yourself....Ive done this before but only recommend it if you really know what you are doing.....or take it down to a local shop that you trust to do it for you......from what Ive seen most shops are gonna prob charge between $250 to $300 in labor for this job....
Also, once the job is done, I highly recommend using a fully synthetic transmission fluid like Redline MT-90.....much smoother shifting, longer transmission life.
http://trdsparks.com/displayparts.ph...1&parts_id=430.
At this point, once you have the new clutch kit, you can replace it yourself....Ive done this before but only recommend it if you really know what you are doing.....or take it down to a local shop that you trust to do it for you......from what Ive seen most shops are gonna prob charge between $250 to $300 in labor for this job....
Also, once the job is done, I highly recommend using a fully synthetic transmission fluid like Redline MT-90.....much smoother shifting, longer transmission life.
Wow, 116k miles on the stock clutch? That's pretty incredible lol....it's definitely time for a new clutch.....do yourself a favor and get the TRD kit I sent you the link to as well as a batch of MT-90 Redline trans fluid.
time for a new clutch....if you know nothing about cars,i would advise you not to take on such a big project like doing the clutch,you need a experience person who knows what there doing,its not a simple 15 mins job,could take 6-8 hrs with the proper tools...
I wouldnt recommend it unless you have someone with decent mechanical experience around to assist. Preferably someone with experience doing engine/trans work on a fwd vehicle. The one tool youll need, but is almost impossible to find without having it special ordered is an axle nut socket for our car. Its a 30mm 12 point. I ordered mine from Bluepoint(Snapon). Unfortunately all the ones they sell locally, and rent at Autozone, are 6 point.
check your clutch master cylinder and salve cylinders first. does your pedal have any pressure? if you have little to no pressure chances are that your clutch master cylinder or slave is or has gone out. i would inspect that first and make sure its that rather then going out and spending over 400 dollars in labor and parts for a clutch.
the clutch pedal doesnt necessarily have to be stuck on the floor like in most cases where that happens and the clutch master cylinder or slave has gone out. there is a spring tensioner to keep it up and prevent it from sticking.
check if your clutch fork is and is having pressure and builds enough pressure to disengage your clutch also... if its not building pressure and easy to move left and right then again look to your slave and clutch master cylinder for faults. if it build and holds pressure and your clutch pedal still has a good amount of pressure THEN its your clutch.
a good sign if your clutch is gone is if the clutch has been slipping on you or laggy to grab and get you doing. if you've had to rev a little higher or wait longer for it to grab then yes your clutch and pp probably need replacing as well as the throw out bearing also
the clutch pedal doesnt necessarily have to be stuck on the floor like in most cases where that happens and the clutch master cylinder or slave has gone out. there is a spring tensioner to keep it up and prevent it from sticking.
check if your clutch fork is and is having pressure and builds enough pressure to disengage your clutch also... if its not building pressure and easy to move left and right then again look to your slave and clutch master cylinder for faults. if it build and holds pressure and your clutch pedal still has a good amount of pressure THEN its your clutch.
a good sign if your clutch is gone is if the clutch has been slipping on you or laggy to grab and get you doing. if you've had to rev a little higher or wait longer for it to grab then yes your clutch and pp probably need replacing as well as the throw out bearing also
Sorry if this is too off topic, but i dont think it warrents a new thread. I rebuilt my cylinder head and dyno'd at 375whp this week, and i was wondering if i 'need' (keyword) a new clutch. It has <20k miles and i recently started racing on the weekends (about 5k miles ago). It seems fine so far (DD) but i havent taken it to the track, because i cant afford throwing my clutch and lose my DD. Looking at being broke for a couple months.
long story short whats the most hp anyone (without problem) put on the stock clutch?
long story short whats the most hp anyone (without problem) put on the stock clutch?
Last edited by BleackOne; Mar 2, 2012 at 06:43 PM.
Sorry if this is too off topic, but i dont think it warrents a new thread. I rebuilt my cylinder head and dyno'd at 375whp this week, and i was wondering if i 'need' (keyword) a new clutch. It has <20k miles and i recently started racing on the weekends (about 5k miles ago). It seems fine so far (DD) but i havent taken it to the track, because i cant afford throwing my clutch and lose my DD. Looking at being broke for a couple months.
long story short whats the most hp anyone (without problem) put on the stock clutch?
long story short whats the most hp anyone (without problem) put on the stock clutch?
clutch flywheel install on my 2005 tc took 13 hrs, but we had to buy parts and a few beers were consumed, i had 100k miles on the car, but the clutch was fine, i had the s/c rebuilt and thought it was a good time to install a new spec stage 2 clutch, fidanza flywheel and rear mail seal and the starter, it runs like a champ now, that spec clutch is amazing
no joke though if your now experienced machanic dont try this in your garage
no joke though if your now experienced machanic dont try this in your garage
I replaced my clutch and flywheel without pulling the axles from the hubs, in such case, you don't need the special axle nut tool.. but you have to be CAREFUL!!
And for what all these guys above are saying, pretty much all true.. I would personally put my money on the throw out bearing and/or bad clutch.
And for what all these guys above are saying, pretty much all true.. I would personally put my money on the throw out bearing and/or bad clutch.
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