LOL, I love Stage4's. They're a lady when you want them to be, but a _____ when they NEED to be. Yeah, you will notice on anything wit higher friction and more clamping force if you lazy foot out of 1st or R it will do that. Now, the fun part, as you said, is the ability to let it rip...that's my favorite part .

Chris H.

 

competition clutch stg 4 clutch with upgraded pp and 12lb flywheel here..

its fine for NA and boost.. very very streetable clutch for daily driving atleast for me. clamps great, a little rough on reverse but nothing major but i think its because i have solid motor mounts all over.

i do notice a bit of a small chatter like b real said. it does go away after i give the clutch a small tap. i did grease the throwout bearing all over and on the spline when installed.. it use to be worse in the first 100 miles but its been going away slowly. that rattle should go away after a few more hundred miles.

B real. theres also another solution to end the chatter with the addition of an extended pushrod which im gonna install soon. and also did u adjust the play in the clutch pedal also? it takes some fine tuning but adjusting it will also take away that small chatter.

and is that tc ur talking about rick in a light silver tc with the full aem standalone?

 

Thank you for the info, I appreciate that. If you know who's making that extended pushrod, please let me know. I would be interested in seeing one.

Are you asking me about the silver tc? Or B real?

Chris H.

 

im asking Breal. speed source makes the rod.

 

TCpete,

Thanks for the info on the chatter.. So you think adjusting the pedal to be a little closer to the floor would help?

As for the TC I was referring to, it's the Unicorn.. I believe he was on a CM stage 3. He started with a Tnetics kit - and on that kit with a built motor and Motec, he made 440+ whp I think at 22 or so psi.

 

Ok cool, thank you. I'll be in touch with them.

Chris H.

 

yea man it should help... when i first got my clutch put in i drove it around the play was crazy before i actually disengaged. it was a super fast engagement and you literally had to push the clutch to the floor HARD to disengage. at this point the TOB did not chatter at all or atleast the small rattle from the clutch area did not rattle. after the clutch pedal was adjusted to a much better pedal feel and almost no play in the clutch pedal thats when the small rattle began. i still have to go back and so some more adjusting. Lets say on a scale of 1-5 (1 being super play and 5 being no play in the clutch pedal) its started at a 1 and now it at a 4 or 5.. so ill be taking it down to a 3 or 4 and that should solve that small issue...

but im going to do that after i install the rod. the rod should eliminate that hpoefully. ill let you know how it goes. and if u need help with adjustments LMK.

 

SPEC stage 3 on a fully built turbo engine.

It's a 6 puck clutch but has a VERY streetable feel with surprisingly smooth engagement. It's rated somewhere around 450 ft/lbs. I am not using a lightened flywheel. Highly recommended.

 

Highly recommend that you use a lightened flywheel? How's the pedal effort?

Chris H.

 

sorry, the clutch is highly recommended.

The pedal effort is also surprisingly light. If it means anything my wife is 115lbs and drives the tC everyday. You're not going to cramp your leg up at a stop light if you decide to hold the clutch down.

 

Right on, that sounds great. Thanks for letting me know man.

 

what i meant by my traffic situation is that after a alot of time of time in bumper to bumper traffic with constant 1st-2nd gear changes and contantly moving away from a stop, i seem to get out of sync with the clutch and have a hard time feeling when it is about to engage and feels like it is taking alittle longer to engage than it was before. not sure if it is a clutch issue or a driver fatique issue though because it isn't slipping or anything, just start having a hard time pulling away from a stop smoothly.

 

stop and go traffic is the ultimate killer of a clutch man.. it fades the grip 10 fold.. thats why upgrading to a larger clutch is such a must in high traffic places.. sure a stg 2 would suit you well but a stg 4 or 5 will give the the benefit of lasting longer...

 

I'm still undecided between the CC stage 3 or CC stage 4. I'd prefer the drivability of the disc style stage 3, but I keep hearing different opinions on how much tq it's good for, as I'm currenlty close to 300tq. I just think the stage 3 would be more dialy drivable then the puck style stage 4, mainly because there is a ramp with a gate at work, and I sit on my clutch and gas on the ramp as I punch in my code to open the gate...

 

^^ will be good with the stage 3, even stock will hold some around 230

 

Question for you comp clutch guys. I just purchased the stage IV through dezod. Is there a break in time for this clutch?

 

500 mile break in.


phil the stg 4 is very streetable.. i do have the same scenario with an uphill ramp and entering code .. i just roll up and throw it in N... when im done with the code put it back in 1st.. yea its a bit aggressive but nothing major... it really is a nice DD clutch once you break it in. the only problem u might have is what Breal and me have which is a bit a clutch adjusting that need to be made to take out the play in the clutch pedal.. but once thats done its all good. if your gonna push 300 TQ daily take the extra effort to keep the clutch going the extra miles u know.

 

sometimes the resins that come up when the material is hot will allow for a little oddity in how it engages (essentially the material swells and contracts).It is heat that causes. You're not doing anything wrong by any means. No sweat, how long have you had it again?

 

ace...when I was only pushing 250hp (i'd guess around 230tq) I would slip on any decent launch...the stock will deffinalty NOT hold 230.

pete...I thought only the S3 had the break in, not the S4...and could you do me a favor and see how that hill is if you modulate with the clutch and gas instead of the break?
My problem is if I use the break, I may roll back slighty as I'm engageing, and there is ALWAYS some JERK who pulls right up on my rear waiting to get in...

 

well they state no break in.. but after reading the direction on the package it does say 500 mile.. regardless you should break in every clutch for 500-700 miles no matter which it is just for safety ya know...

the incline is very steep and playing with the clutch and accel at the same time is definitely not like stock play where its easy to go back and forth.. maybe after some more mileage on the clutch i can do it but right now at 200 miles i probably cant.

its a small price to pay man i know the little stupid things like that do matter.. but in the end would you really wana replace the clutch again in the long run?? doing it once by yourself is a PITA lol.. i cant imagine doing it again and dropping atleast 600 bucks for parts and labor..thats ludacris! lol