meaty stage 3 is your best option to what you are looking for.. it will handle up to 350 too.. you dont race or track often anyweiz

 

ok, thank you sir

 

yeah...I think the kevlar:
http://www.dezod.com/pd_competition_...e_3_clutch.cfm
thing is...there is this hill at the gate to my office parking space that I sit at every morning. I need smooth engagement so I dont' stall out while waiting for the gate to open.

 

That's fine, Stage 3 Kevlar. would be fine for that.

 

anyone....anyone....

Bueller.....Bueller...

 

I just placed an order for the CC s2. I know absolutely nothing about clutches. Most of the info in this thread is on the higher up stages. I'm not much of an aggressive driver but get in the mood from time to time. What should I do when I first get in my tC with the new clutch? How should I break it in and for how long? Are there any precautions or things to keep in mind when driving?

my tC is relatively stock by the way. I plan on having a few moderate bolt on mods only. I/H/E that kinda deal.

Thanks guys. Awesome thread.

 

500 miles break in period.. just be easy on the clutch no quick engagements

 

Normal everyday driving. No heavy launches or burn outs. Do not slip the clutch or ride the pedal. Match the RPM's as best as possible when shifting and downshifting. Do not put the car on the dyno or take it to the track during the break-in period. Maintain this for at least 500 miles and you should be good to go!

If you have any other questions, let us know!

 

sweet. thank you so much.

STICKY!

 

well... one thing I have definitely noticed about my CC stage 2 is that it absolutely HATES maneuvering to park (parallel parking for instance), or pulling out from a cramped parking area. it heats up to the 'smelling point' under that kind of use much more quickly than when driving normally, or even in heavy stop-n-go traffic.

matter of fact, I have smelled the clutch several times since I got it installed back in january, and EVERY time has been during a parking operation.

I've also noticed that when I rev past say 1200rpm before I let the clutch out, the engagement point feels like it shifts higher off the floor compared to when I do not rev. this may be a hydraulic issue with the clutch slave cylinder, but that was replaced at the same time as the clutch.

 

You may have to do a pedal adjustment. Give us a shout here at the shop and we'll help you diagnose what may be going on and see if we can get this thing smoothed out. :D

We're here to help guys! If you need anything, don't hesitate to give us a ring!

 

what about a CC clutch stage 5 i think its sprong the guy said there is springs in the middle.. i should be putting down 280-300 whp once tuned i can get a rele good deal on the stage 5.. also will be useing a 9.5lb flywheel... think it will hurt anything or wear out fast?

 

go with 4!

 

x2

You'll be good to go with the Stage 4 - six puck sprung. The drivability will be smoother and you'll actually get more life out of the clutch than the Stage 5. I wouldn't worry about the flywheel either - its 4140 Forged Steel which IMO is stronger/more reliable than the stock and aluminum flywheels.

 

what is the recomended engagement point on your CC4 ... i have chatter on mines which from what i have head is very normal. but ive also adjusted it to engage very low and other ive seen change the engagement point very high... my TOB was greased very well and sometimes it tends to stick depending on the day... any suggestions? .... im pretty happy with it.. not fully but its been pretty good to me thus far.

 

Typically you want your release point to be somewhere in the middle of the throw of the pedal if not toward the top. This allows full disengagement of the clutch and also allows you a little room for error as far as you know the clutch will be released if you go to the floor with the pedal. Now as far as you greasing the bearing this might be a problem. In today’s clutch bearings they all come pre lubed ready to go. There is no packing of the grease into the bearing and if you do you will have problems. Also the sticking you are referring to I’m assuming is the clutch not going into or out of gear? By having the pedal at the floor you are not putting enough fluid through the hydraulics of the car and therefore it’s not releasing enough to get it into the next gear.

Give us a call if you have any more questions!! 1-800-809-6598

 

ok that would explain a few things. Im sorry the grease i was reffering to before was greasing the actual spline from the tranny.. mines was semi rusted (florida weather humidity is not friendly) which is why ive always opted for the extra protection from rust with some grease since all my cars ive done it and it work fine.

Ill try adjusting the clutch pedal more towards the middle... even though ive grown use it being very close to the floor making launching and driving around pretty quick i dont mind trying that out. thanks for your reply =)

 

Im dropping off my clutch tommrow to cft there shipping it back for me!

Let me know what you guys find out with it!

 

Hey guys i'm looking for a clutch that will hold 400WHP and be drivable in the city traffic ( NYC )
because after i deploy in september i will send the car to NY so brother will look after it and drive it sometimes.

what would you guys reccomend ?

for example Stage 4 sprung 6 puck clutch how is it in traffic ? parking and all that stuff ?

another example how about this ACT clutch ?

http://www.dezod.com/pd_act_street_clutch_kittc_05.cfm

 

http://www.ptuning.com/html/Item-Des...L&ModelDesc=tC

I'd recommend that. Ill be rocking that when my turbo comes in.

I live right by NYC, so i know how much traffic sucks. Lol my leg sometimes cramps up when im stuck in traffic on the west side highway. So im guessing my leg is going to cramp up a little bit more with this new clutch LOL. Oh well things we do for boost.