Hey guys, it's me again. I don't own a tC so bear with me

We got pretty far in 4-5 hours-
1) All ancillary devices are disconnected (starter, battery, etc)
2) The halfshaft and CV joints are disconnected
3) The from roll resistor is disconnected
4) The shift cables are disconnected from the tower

Okay.

Here's my questions for you all-


1) HOW in the world do you unbolt the rear roll resistor? The transmission mount is super easy- but the rear resistor, not so much. I can't fathom how to even get a wrench back there. I don't want to take off the whole bracket assembly I am just trying to get the two bolts off that connect to the transmission housing. Help.

2) The shift cables- There is a bracket that holds them in. I used about 1-2 feet of extensions on the ratchet to get the front cable bracket bolt off, that worked nicely. Now, how do I get to the back bolt? I assume if I get the bracket off I don't have to take the cables out of the brackets.

3) Anything else I need to know? I think besides the tranny mount, RR's, and shift cable brackets we can unbolt it from the block and drop it down.

THANK YOU so much

 

Anyone? We are going back to work later today.

 

You didn;t even have to disconnect the shift cables on the shifter tower. All you need to do is disconnect the cable ends from the transmission and remove the bracket. I used a wrench to get those bolts out of the cable bracket. Quick question WTF is a rear roll resistor? Do you mean rear transmission mount? if so you will have to take the center bolt out with long extensions from the drivers side. There are three bolts that hold the mount in. You will have to unbolt the mount completely then get a pry bar and roll the transmission and engine toward the front bumper and you will be able to lift the mount out of the holes its mounted in. The mount will not actually come out completely just lift it up out of the holes and tilt it back towards the firewall and then comes the fun part. Finish removing the transmission top mount and the transmission front mount.

 

Yeah, we took the clips off the shift cable and pulled them out.

Roll resistors are the mounts on the front and rear of the subframe- they are not meant to carry the weight of the transaxle they are meant to resist the movements of lateral torque that the engine produces.

Anyways, we got the tranny out after about 2-3 more hours. 2 hours of it was just a hang up in the rear. I took about 6 feet of extension and an impact and disconnected tbe main bolt off the rear "mount."

Help me out one more time:

How do/where do you bleed the slave cylinder? I see where it runs to little thing that has 2 bolts, but I didn't see where to bleed it. I didn't look all that hard, though..

Also, how hard is it to get the P/S halfshaft back in the tranny? That looks like a huge PITA.

Thanks!

 

The bleeder screw is on the slave cylinder.

 

How do you bleed it then? I mean, if it is on the slave cylinder how do I bleed the clutch with the transmission back on?

 

The same as brakes.

1st make sure the fluid is full
2nd have someone pump the pedal several times and hold the pedal to the floor
3rd open the screw and wait to close it until all the air has come out or most of the fluid then close the bleeder valve
4th release the clutch pedal
5th repeat 1-4 until all the air is out of the system.

 

Okay, we are all finished.

The brake fluid never left the system, we just held back the pressure plate arm with a huge rod (that b1tch is stiff) and rebolted the slave. Worked fine, no bleeding needed. Refilled the tranny with fluid, packed the axles, and rebolted everything. I at first didn't ground the harness properly, but moved it around and it started right up.

Man, that clutch is grabby. Fun.

One question- when I did my motor swap on my cougar the CV joint boot clips were a bit easier to take off and I reused them. We cut the clips off on the tC's boot and replaced them with zipties. I know that is not the best idea, so where can I get just the new clips?