I got an 06 tC with about 300whp and tq and has about 105,000 miles. I have had the Exedy Stage 2 clutch on the car for about 10,000 miles and it just FAILED on me! Supposedly it can handle 320 ft lbs of tq but I was told that is at the crank, but also heard it can handle alot more

Last week I had noticed the car was making a very high pitched sound and when I pushed in the clutch pedal it stopped. I could not figure out the problem. Than was driving to work monday and all of a sudden the clutch pedal dropped to the floor and I had no play in the pedal at all. Luckily my work was only a mile down the road and I managed to shift gears without using the clutch. When I pulled in I backed the car in reverse and heard alot of chatter and smoke billowing out under the hood.

I know how to drive a manual transmission and had the stock clutch on the car for 90,000 miles until I cranked the boost up to 12lbs and blew out the stuck clutch due to it now being able to handle the power. Anyone else have this problem with EXEDY stage 2 clutch??

I do take the car to the track occasionally, made about 10-15 runs last year. Is this clutch only for street and autox, and not recommended for the drag strip? Well it is no longer under warranty since EXEDY only has a 90 day guarantee and I bought it last June. I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on a new clutch and anyone have any idea what could have caused it to go out so soon.

BTW the performance shop I took it to has yet to take it apart to find out exactly what happened, I will update as soon as a find out. They did check the hydraulic lines and bleeded them out and discovered it was not the hydraulics that was defective. Anyone with any input feel free to chime in.

Thanks!

 

Hmmm strange sounded like a hydraulic problem. I have an Exedy stage II cerametallic clutch the regular thickness; do you have the thin one? I made nearly a dozen passes last season not to mention tuning with the clutch (12psi 13.6s @111) and I haven't had any problems yet. I'm interested to see what they find when they take everything apart.

 

sound like the throw-ought bearing.(the part that pushes against your pressure plate)

 

I was wondering if this could be the case.

OP, did you use the OEM throwout bearing or the one provided with the clutch kit? I used the OEM one purposely cause I have heard of aftermarket ones failing...

 

I have the regular thickness, according to their website it says...
Part # 16953A
Specs
Thin / Thick Thick
Disc Outer Diameter 240mm
Spline Teeth / Major Diameter 21T / 29.8 mm


Also for the past couple months I noticed a sound, whenever a pushed the clutch pedal in I could hear a loud noise like something was grinding, never thought it was anything major since it was like that for quite a while and everything was working fine. Not sure if that was a sign of something major.

 

I have the same clutch currently installed in my car. I've had issues with it once where I had to change out the throw-out bearing in less than 5k miles. Switched to an OEM throw-out bearing and haven't had problems since *knock on wood*, been driving with it for 15k miles now.

 

Were the issues you had similar to what Im having?? Where the pedal was down to the floor and you could hear a loud noise coming from the clutch.

Also, the clutch has been able to hold the power ever since I got it installed. The clutch never started slipping like the OEM one did, so would that typically mean that it is not the clutch and that it may be the throw out bearing? Im starting to learn alot more about how a manual transmission works, never done a clutch install and just dont have the time and tools to do the job. I just dont want the shop to try and get money out of me and tell me my clutch is blown and they have yet to take it apart to find out exactly what went wrong.

 

Ive had the same issues with my clutch. My throw out bearing went bad at 3k miles after the install. Before I could replace it the clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there right after I down shifted. The clutch slave cylinder push rod came out and the throw out bearing ruined the input shaft. I had to replace the transmission, slave cylinder, and throw out bearing (oem). The clutch and pressure plates were re-used and since have gave me no problems.

 

I hope this is what the problem is, I did smell some burnt clutch though and smoke was coming out so im hoping the clutch isnt toast. They were saying with a new clutch and flywheel its gonna run me about $1400, I do not have that kinda of money to drop right meow.

Did you swap out the throw out bearing your self or had it done at a shop, if so how much did it cost?

 

Total job cost me $2100.

refurb trans was $1300 misc parts was $300 and labor was $500

like I said earlier, I re-used the clutch and pressure plate.

 

Damn, hopefully I do not run into the same issues you had. Im waiting for the shop to take apart the car and find out exactly what went wrong, ill post back on here as soon as I find out.

 

If for some reason my clutch is toast, anyone recommened a different clutch to go with like ACT or Comp if they fixed their problems? Or should I stick with the Exedy Stage 2

 

How much TQ does the car make?

 

290 tq to the wheels on the dyno. The shop thats working on the car for me stated the torque capacity that the Exedy states are based on the crank torque? Is that correct, he mentioned that the tq at the crank would be well over 300 on my car.

 

Crank rated, correct. Check out this one for you.

http://www.dezod.com/pd_act_street_clutch_kittc_05.cfm

290 at the tire is about 330-340 on the crank.

 

Ill keep that in mind. Im still waiting for them to get back to me to find out what is wrong with the car.

I may have to make a trip out to your shop and get my car tuned from you guys since you deal alot with the tC's. My car is running kinda rich, and rpms go up and down at idle. I have the AEM F/IC on it as well and I see you guys are AEM certified.