needle spiking? cel?
#1
needle spiking? cel?
So i was driving the other day and i had a CEL so i stopped at auto zone and they said it was the MAF sensor, So i went home and unplugged my negative and let it sit there over night so when i plugged it back in today, my passenger window doesnt roll down by the driviers side so i have to lean over and use the passenger side. MY car at a cold start idled at 2550 RPM and when i drive and put it in neutral, it idles at 1500. and the needle starts to spike? why does it do this?
i have a fujita f5 CAI
i have a fujita f5 CAI
#2
The power window thing is normal - it'll get back to normal soon. Technically you're supposed to initiate the power windows.. I'm not sure how.. but there's a way to do it. Mine just comes back working like normal in a day or so.
I'm not sure why your idle is like that though.. sorry.. perhaps your MAF is just bad. You can get one a Advanced Autoparts for $80+ and core charge.. you get the core charge back after you give them your stock MAF.
I'm not sure why your idle is like that though.. sorry.. perhaps your MAF is just bad. You can get one a Advanced Autoparts for $80+ and core charge.. you get the core charge back after you give them your stock MAF.
#4
my intake did this at first and they said to let the car idle for 5 minutes for the comp to remap the air amount or something. But i was thinking about putting on my stock intake and taking it into the dealer to get it serviced uinder waranty and then swap it back with the CAI when iu get it back.
#5
Originally Posted by FKasperkhan
my intake did this at first and they said to let the car idle for 5 minutes for the comp to remap the air amount or something. But i was thinking about putting on my stock intake and taking it into the dealer to get it serviced uinder waranty and then swap it back with the CAI when iu get it back.
How to fix the window is in the manual. Supposedly you got to let your car idle for 10 minutes or so.
#7
RTFM for the windows.
The CEL codes dont mean "Sensor bad".. have them tell you which code is set. It could mean a bad sensor, or something causing it to read the wrong thing. For example, if you install the wrong year model intake you will end up with MAF codes even if the MAF is not bad. The worst thing to do is to go swapping out parts until you fix it.. that just costs you more money than it should. At least find out the code and maybe we can help you figure out what is going on. What year model is your intake from, and what year model tC do you have?
The CEL codes dont mean "Sensor bad".. have them tell you which code is set. It could mean a bad sensor, or something causing it to read the wrong thing. For example, if you install the wrong year model intake you will end up with MAF codes even if the MAF is not bad. The worst thing to do is to go swapping out parts until you fix it.. that just costs you more money than it should. At least find out the code and maybe we can help you figure out what is going on. What year model is your intake from, and what year model tC do you have?
#11
1) Read manual, reset windows. Reset sunroof.
2) Get the code from autozone. Reset CEL, see if it comes back. If it does, then research it... try cleaning MAF sensor first (if it's shot, it's shot)... then buy a new one. Very easy to replace yourself.
3) High Idle from a cold start is actually normal, and can be exaggerated with a CAI. The idle then changes under varying load conditions (when you put it in drive, neutral, etc.)... and is also changing based on the "warmup state" of the motor.
If your MAF sensor is truly broken, then you'd be running open-loop all of the time. Note if you get a huge drop in power and gas mileage. This could also explain the janky idle.
2) Get the code from autozone. Reset CEL, see if it comes back. If it does, then research it... try cleaning MAF sensor first (if it's shot, it's shot)... then buy a new one. Very easy to replace yourself.
3) High Idle from a cold start is actually normal, and can be exaggerated with a CAI. The idle then changes under varying load conditions (when you put it in drive, neutral, etc.)... and is also changing based on the "warmup state" of the motor.
If your MAF sensor is truly broken, then you'd be running open-loop all of the time. Note if you get a huge drop in power and gas mileage. This could also explain the janky idle.
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