ic, i thought it was something like that but i mean isnt it worth the pistons being able to hold more boost? or its just not worth it until i decide to up boost to 14? because id start at 6 and it would be a long time before id go to 14

 

ok one more question so what does getting the engine turbo ready include? exept for changing the piston compression what else would be good to do? and what are the rest of the options? I mean i know you should upgrade suspension and clutch in the long run but what else gets strain from turbos ppl talk about tranny not handling boost what does that mean? and axles

 

Lower CR lets you up the boost a lot more...you are limited in how much boost you can dial in with a higher strting CR. So a tC with stock internals at 6 PSI will make more HP than a tC with lower CR (8.5:1)at 6 PSI.

 

Exactly. Its not always about how much boost you can run. Who cares if you hit 20 psi when you can make the same power with a better DD setup on 15 psi.

Charles.

 

but you guys said you should always get the engine turbo or f/i ready before you run stuff so what would getting an engine turbo ready include doing if i want to run eventually about 10-14 psi

 

Primarily you'd want to strengthen anything that has anything to do with the extra boost.

Gotta look at things like the transmission and internals.

If you're going to replace the pistons with the low CR pistons than you should also replace the connecting rods too. They're extra beefy for stock parts but I believe they're not forged steel (right, Charles?)

About transmission, of course you'll need a new clutch and while you're at it you might want to install a new flywheel. Axles............................... when your car becomes a serious race car.. for regular street driving these might be overkill but won't be harmful. In fact, that'd be pretty cool to be running beefy axles too.

Things like suspension aren't absolutely necessary but you know, power is no good without something to direct it eh?

 

The rods are forged and its under debate on whether or not they will hold any substantial amount of power without fault. I've had my stock rods cryo treated and shot peaned and we shall find out.

On another note, Drive shaft shop says the axles are good for 500 wheel. Im not sure as to how some people have broken theirs and would be curious to see a pic of the breaking points. I know cars have gone low 12's high 11's on the stock axles without incident.

Charles

 

1. bump up intervals
2. timing, e manage can take some of the timing issues away.
3. complete turbo kit, do NOT run without intercooler after you upgrade the 0 to 10-14psi.
4. Cam should be upgraded
5. Ignition should be upgraded
6. Rods need to be built to withstand
7. Upgrade clutch
8. Strengthen tranny
9. New head, since you are going with ZPI ZPI head.
10. ZPI pistons (comes with rings, don't worry)
11. Be sure to upgrade your suspension, coilovers would be best. Otherwise, 2+ drop with springs, new shocks.
12. Turbo exhaust. 2.5''+ after you reach your 10-14psi goal. HKS exhaust works great, add the zpi S-pipe and you'd be pretty set.

All of this i would recommend. Why? You want a strong motor for a daily driver, and these mods are all important to keep the motor running strong for a few years with that much boost vs. a year.

Be sure to get boost gauge, fuel gauge and temp. gauges to keep an eye on things.

Cya

EDIT: Stock axles will be fine for a while, but down the road i wouldn't be surprised if something comes up.

 

thanks thats what i wanted to know a list