hello,

not sure if this has been discussed yet. but my 08 tc has ashakey idle running about 6-700rpms at a stand still idle. anyone know why that is? i took the stock airbox out and put in a cone filter.

please help

 

Have you cleaned the MAF? If not try going to a local parts store and asking them for a can of MAF cleaner. My tc idles around 600-700 rpm as well

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

 

No I haven't and thought about doing that. However my obd2 reader says nothing's wrong. But when I look at the readiness DTCs it says miss fire and some other codes show up like a total of 20 codes. And it will also say coolant is low but I looked at it and it is full.

 

Would spark plugs result in this?

 

Ok so I cleaned the MAF RPMs are running better not much but better. however i discovered that my emissions light on my CANOBD II Reader is yellow. For me this is not good at all as i am OCD and have to do inspections here in oregon. so there is this readiness DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) thing I have not the slightest clue what the hell that is but its throwing these codes:

P0300 Random misfire detected
P0171 system too lean (bank one)
P0172 system too rich (bank one)
P0100 mass or volume air flow circuit
P0102 mass or volume air flow circuit low input
P0103 mass or volume air flow circuit high input
P0125 insufficient coolant temp for closed loop fuel control
P0137 circuit low voltage (bank one, sensor 2)
P0138 circuit high voltage (bank one, sensor 2)
P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1)
P043E Catalyst temperature sensor circuit low (bank 2, sensor 2)

there are 8 more to go but the CANOBD II Reader froze up. can someone please tell me if this is past memory or if its meaning my car needs major work? too my knowledge it drives great. quick responses and shifting is the same as before from what i remember. again i went from stock to stock plus cone filter to SRI bak to stock plus cone. I reset the ECU each time.

 

Those may be old codes since some of them don't make sense. If the o2 is reading too lean, it shouldn't also read too rich. Only explanation I can think of is that they happened at different times. Try unplugging the battery for 30 mins, then plug back in to clear the ecu. Don't forget to let it idle w/o touching the throttle for 10-20 mins. Drive for about 100 miles then scan again.

 

I will try this out and post an update. According to some website I viewed last night the obd2 readers have several monitors that need to show up under certain driving conditions most of which I have done. So ill see what happens once I hit the 100 mile mark. But I do think your right it doesn't make sense and they are more than likely codes that showed up in the past. Again it could be just me over reacting which I have the tendency to do about my cars. Because I take good care of them and treat them like family haha so yeah I think it's all go e to my head. But like I said I'll post an update.

 

best way to approach this would be to ask , what else did you do before these codes appeared, did you jump battery,, did you unplug some thing,, or did these code appear after cleaning maf sensor, how did you clean it, how dirty was it, how does the maf sensor look like from the inside, did you damage the maf sensor by bending the elements inside.. have you checked your fuses.. because all of your codes contradict them selves.. ,, but from my history in dealing with some of your codes,, ive seen blown fuses like AM1 fuse blown or AM2. ECU-IG blown that have created same codes. but also seen a/f sensor stuck in open loop..creating 5 of those codes. p0125 code is just letting you know that total temp for closed loop has not been met.. .. reset light and check what codes are present and start from there too determine fault code not just codes that are present due to fault code..

P0300 Random misfire detected
P0171 system too lean (bank one)
P0172 system too rich (bank one)
P0100 mass or volume air flow circuit
P0102 mass or volume air flow circuit low input
P0103 mass or volume air flow circuit high input
P0125 insufficient coolant temp for closed loop fuel control
P0137 circuit low voltage (bank one, sensor 2)
P0138 circuit high voltage (bank one, sensor 2)
P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1)
P043E Catalyst temperature sensor circuit low (bank 2, sensor 2)

there are 8 more to go but the CANOBD II Reader froze up. can someone please tell me if this is past memory or if its meaning my car needs major work? too my knowledge it drives great. quick responses and shifting is the same as before from what i remember. again i went from stock to stock plus cone filter to SRI bak to stock plus cone. I reset the ECU each time.[/QUOTE]

 

Maf is good no harm was gentle with it. Did not jump battery. And there has been no cel/mil showing up. I think that maybe the codes will disappear once I drive it more. Ill update later on once I hit 100 miles right now I'm at 50 or 80 not sure

 

Vladislav- yeah the OBD-II needs about 100-200 miles before it says the emissions system is "Ready". It will show that yellow until it completes its tests. Glad that someone else said to disconnect the battery since the computer re-learns the air flow after the MAF is cleaned. I've had it where I'd clean the MAF but not reset the computer (disconnect the battery) and the idle would be funky, resetting made it smooth again.

and 600-700 rpms is normal for our engine, but you might have been feeling a rough idle when the MAF was dirty.. Typical problem but an easy fix.

 

Thanks!!! Now I feel a little less smart hahaha jk. But yeah I thought about what u said and then read ur post. So this means I could have left the Sri in my car. Damn I feel stupid. I had the green light and all from the trd intake from an 06 on my 08. What do you guys think should I put it back? Or sell it like I was trying to do

 

you could probably sell it, some of the cold air intakes/short ram intakes can cause issues with the MAF sensor because of contamination due to the oil they use on the air filter. It spits up onto the sensor and poof check engine light. Plus if that intake doesn't have a baffle it can suck up water into the engine during a rain storm. not fun! I'm one for performance, but not if it's going to cause me more problems trying to get that performance but hey it's up to you want you want to do, the TRD stuff was probably engineered correctly but if you need the money sell it..

and hey you don't have to feel stupid, we all started somewhere and learned all the stuff we now know.. and then you can pass on all the knowledge you soak up onto the people after you.. that's what's cool about this forum just keep passing it forward

 

It's kool figured my problem in a way it's the 3" cone filter not wanting to stay on getting a new one now that's 2.5" as I'm typing this

 

Thank you for the kindness and understanding. Not many people are that way towards me. Usually they just say random stuff to keep me from asking questions too much. But I learned ye dumbest question is the one you don't ask. I wounded up modding the intake buly taking another part of the CAI to make it extend to where that black hose thing is on the fender well which I took a rubber piece and put it behind the filter and made it look neater and without a huge gap between the filter and fender well. I am going out to eat now to test this ill post up a pic to show what I did for those who run into the same situation when I get the chance.

 

hey you're most welcome, yeah i've been to those kinds of sites where the people don't care to hear what *THEY* already know. Not a lot of understanding on those sites. We all started somewhere, and hey there are always newbies to the scion scene. Gotta welcome everyone, well at least that's my motto. And you're right, the dumb question is the one you never ask. I remember back when I was 16 and just started to work on cars, I walked into a parts store to get some parts. happened to be a NAPA dealer, they knew I was a kid but that didn't stop them from explaining all about what I needed to replace on my EGR valve back then. To this day I don't forget how helpful NAPA was and is today. nope not a commercial for NAPA, just remembering how someone respected me for trying to fix it myself and didn't treat me like an idiot.. lol

and yeah glad you're able to re-do that intake, I think that baffle is still in place in the fender? If not maybe you could modify that to work with the sri/cai? definitely don't want any chance of it sucking up water during a strong storm! that would definitely ruin your day!

a pic would be great to see, easier than asking a million questions..

 

A Simple DIY for the those who are broke like me

Ok so here is how I started:

Step 1: Remove air box place spectre coupler and MAF adapter and cone on stock housing

Before:


After:


Step two: Purchase TRD Cold Air Intake from SL member 60$ :D

NOTE: I had to buy an adapter to make it fit as it was from a 2006 tC.
you can get the flange adapter from Dr. Isotope. 25$-50$ your choice on where to go. ( DO NOT GO TO CUSTOM TC i made that mistake )

Step 3: I did not like the way it looked and how there was a huge gap between filter and fender... so I used another part of CAI to make the SRI look better and more complete.
(WARNING buy a 2.5" cone filter a 3" will fall off unless you do this setup)



So in this last step I had to take the part of the CAI that connects to the filter anyways in the fender well leaving the other longer pipe in my garage used the other two pipes connected them added filter and removed the black tubing that goes inside the fender so that the cone will fit. if you look right where the con filter is there is a black rubber piect attached to it. I used that to hold the filter in place and to keep it on the tube until my new filter comes in tomorrow. where the two pipes connect is where filter use to sit. I do suggest getting a bracket to keep it from rattling. I lost 100 WHP by not putting the stickers on it sorry guys.

But hey this works and I think its better this way because the filter is further from the MAFS and closer to the fender well and no water can get in unless i go through a lake.

All together i spent:
TRD CAI: 60$
Spectre Filter: 30$ i think
Spectre Coupler: 8$
Vibrant Cone Filter I'm picking up tomorrow: 27$
Labour Cost: Self Satisfaction of doing it on your own

Grand Total: 115$ and self satisfaction is not bad for work done over a years time just on the intake. but i took it one step at a time.

Post opinions and suggestions for improvement are always welcome!

 

yeah i see what you did, hid the intake into the fender well, and you're right unless water comes up over the hood/down into the hood side into the engine bay you're good! good deal!

just didn't want you to hurt your engine because of an add on, glad you were able to reposition that! oh and how dare you give up 100 whp.. where are your stickers!!?? jk!

keep us posted!

 

So now I have a question. Is it suppose to hiss when I shut off the car? Also when I shift it does a hiss sound it's loud enough to where it sounds like I got a turbo kind of lol I like it tho just want to make sure this is normal

 

i told ya bro.. you gotta take the bacon off the engine BEFORE you turn it off, that's where the hissing is coming from! no cooking on the engine! jk! lol

joking aside.. the hissing is from the intake, with a cold air intake or short ram intake it makes the stock intake manifold louder so you can hear that. It was designed to sound like that. yup, they really did want it to sound like a turbo blow off valve!

the hiss when turning off the car, is probably just the intake. if you wait about 4-5 hours with temps above 40 or 50 degrees I think it is, you'll hear a whirring and hissing from under the car, that's the emissions doing a pressure test on the system. really freaks people out when your car is making noises on its own and no one is around!

 

But bacon ist kreig! Hahaha good to know this! I was about to worry phew! Now to find a rubber like front lip....

Ok so I got the new cone filter here is what she looks like now :D





The cone filter is a Vibrant 1921C Open Funnel Performance Air Filter (5 Cone O.D. x 5 Tall x 2.5 inlet) they sell for 20 bucks online depending where you go. I went with this one as another tC1 owner has the same intake as I do and this is what he suggested not as loud as a spectre but it sounds good! Funny thing is that I do not have a bracket for the intake and there is no rattle at all. And I my green emissions light is now on!!!!