RiversideS13

Hi I do not own a TC or any scion but i have a question for you guys. I have a 2000 toyota solara, 5sfe 2.2L with custom turbo. I keep have CEL came up on me with Code P1036 and it is "Heatd Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction". I replaced a new A/F sensor, it still wont fix. I know you guys are running same A/F sensor and i am wondering if you guys have same problem. If so, how do you fix it? Is it caused by high temperature?

my setup is
o Denso Iridium power spark plug IK22
o Custom Turbo kit from turbo-performance
o Polished T3 turbo with .58 trim
o Mandrel bent header
o Blitz super sound blow off valve
o Turbonuetics Deltagate Mark II wastegate
o Spearco polished front mount intercooler
o Custom Nicole plate piping and header
o K&N air filter
o 3SGTE MAP sensor
o Stainless steel oil lines, pressure pipes
o Full custom 2.5” exhaust all the way
o Magnecore 8,5mm spark wires
o RC engineering 310cc fuel injectors
o Greddy E-manage fuel computer
o Greddy oil catch can
o Greddy Profec E-01 boost controller
o Complete modification from return-less fuel system to return type, with boost dependent fuel pressure regulator 3SGTE
o Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
o modified valve cover vent by EL prototype

taek

i understand taht we share the same engine..but i don't think there is anybody that own a tC here has gone that far yet

Otocan

I have no idea about vehicle code errors on solaras but it sounds to me like there is a problem with your OBD II O2 sensor in your exhaust system, probably on your S-pipe. It could be caused by the turbo system running through the manifold too quickly carrying too much heat through the exhaust system damaging your O2 sensor.

** I RETRACT MY UPPER STATEMENT DUE TO IT ONLY BEING PART TRUE**

http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/counterp...v6_i1_2002.pdf

Third page, third paragraph under the phrase "Reaching Conclusions" it looks like their Subaru got the same error code and it was because the normal resistance value for the oxygen sensor heater element should've been set to 30ohms or less, and in that case it was set to infinite.

If your connector isn't fried I believe what would cause the error would be labeled as "C" in the following picture...

LED

That's the old toyota 4 cyl. I had it in my celica, and it came in camrys for about 10-12 years (more or less) until the last redesign. No Scions have your motor...........unless someone dropped in that 135 hp beast.

SupaWhiteTc

I would try to use the Spark Plug Anti-Fouler trick on the A/F Ratio sensor if that is the one heating up.

RiversideS13

Thanks for reply

althought we had different motor, but i believe we are using same heated A/F sensor that will cost you $190 to replace. and I suspect, if you guys boost you might run into similar problems.

Older celica and mr2 5sfe used ditributor cap and rotor, o2 sensor, return fuel system..that were easier to deal with boost.

what is Spark Plug Anti-Fouler trick?

Also, i already replace "C" (as in the picture) A/F sensor already

Can i post same topic in XA or XB forum? thanks

i20solara02i

you noob. he has a 5s-fe 2.2L not a 2az-fe 2.4L

ZPIracing

What kinda timing is the car running. It maynot be that the O2 is bad but reading an excessivbe amount of heat. The O2 placement is very important as it works off EGT and A/f unlike your standard wideband. I suspect that the car or who ever tuned it is not pullign enough timing under boost which is making the EGT's high and making the O2 read outside of it's range. This is not to say that the car is running a bad tune but the heat of a turbo is a lot more than your stock camry exhaust manifold.

If this is not it then I would check and see how clsoe the O2 is to the turbo unlike almost any other car this O2 needs to be correctly placed in the downstream so that again the egt probe inside the gauge sees the same as it did stock.

If you do move the O2 make sure you adjust your map on the e-manage prior to boosting as your A/f are going to change when the car is gettign proper feedback and you don't want a bad O2 to turn in to a bad motor/

RiversideS13

Hi Thanks for response. My Greddy EGT reads from 500 at idle and the major activites are around 500-800 degree. The prbob is about 2" away from the exhuat maniford gasket.

The A/F sensor was mounted on the custom downpipe, which was just a little bit lower then the oem location. The timing was remain untouched, the tuner said the car is running high heat and i live in desert area(summer 90-110 degree), it is a bad idea to advance the timing (i am not sure if this is true or he just want ot get it done quick so he can eat lunch).

any suggestions?

thanks for any inputs

spwolf

i suggest that you check with your tuner and ask them about it. They should be able to find an reason within 5 minutes.

You have custom piping done for your exaust header, which is where about your O2 sensors should be. It all depends on that placement so again, check with your tuner for quick and easy solution.