AEM FIC Plain and Simple
#1
AEM FIC Plain and Simple
I've posted a few threads in the last few days trying to get my new setup working properly, ive recently gone from a drawn MAF setup where the MAF sits on an intake, routed to the turbo inlet. i now have a blow thru setup,
were my MAF sits on the charge pipe before the throttle body and after the BOV.
Now these points may have been made on another thread bu im going to post them for any1 that is changing their setup to blow thru or any1 that needs a base map and how to hook up your AEM uego.
This is my experience and how my current setup is for my blow thru MAF
1. find a welder or fabricator and have them build u a maf plate on your charge pipe and CONVERT TO A BLOW THRU MAF SETUP. this instantly and largely cleans up the way your tC performs, idles, goes into boost,
my car feels like it did when i first bought it smooth and consistant NO HESITATIONS OR STUMBLES.plus u can effectively use your atmospheric bov.
2. primary O2 sensor- this thing is a joke, u dont need that factory primary O2 sensor or the secondary o2 sensor.
What u do need is an AEM uego, u simply install the uego in your downpipe off your turbo. thats it.
3. AEM/FIC here's the link http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php?topic=19962.0
On that page you will see above the maf clamp pic, in small font a downloadable pdf. file Scion tC wiring diagram, that will tell you wire for wire how to install ur AEM/FIC
4. Buy a AEM uego, install it in place of ur OEM O2 sensor, U DO NOT NEED 2 BUNGS. just one for the uego. put the OEM O2 sensor away or sell it on eBay it doesnt matter.
5. I used the ignition and ground off my radio for the AEM uego, the free wires coming off the uego are red-power, black-ground, blue-not used, white-5volt input, now connect the white wire to the brown wire marked "AUX input" on the AEM/FIC.
This is how ur going to communicate to the ECU proper afrs.
6. PM me if u want the basemap, this is the same base map crush sent to me over a year ago, THIS BASEMAP IS ALMOST PERFECT. its way better than Dezods downloadable base map on there website
this is the same base map my tuner used to create my 269whp 255tq on 8psi on a tiny turbo.
7. once u have the AEM/FIC installed, your AEM uego, your blow-thru MAF setup, and the basemap from me.
Follow these simple directions:
open the AEM/FIC software.
ope file, DOUBLE CLICK ON THE BASE MAP U DOWNLOADED FROM ME, make sure ur laptop is connected to the FIC (follow AEM's directions on connecting to software)
the basemap already has the uego calibrated, and the tune is pretty on point in closed loop.
when u start the car the afrs might be a little lean 15-16.5
all u do to correct this is go into the boost pressure fuel map and make your adjustments there.
u will see where fuel is being taken away for different amounts of boost
u simply add a little more fuel in each cell 1 rpm breakpoint at a time till u get the desired afr shown on ur uego. its that simple
so if ur at 14psi-which is sea level and are pulling -42.00 fuel and ur uego is reading 16.3 try changing it to -38.00 and ur AFR will in turn grow richer
u continue these steps until u get desired AFR at whatever load, boost, rpm u want,
I didn't mess with the ignition timing yet because my afrs were always on point
even when going into 8psi, but this is just to get you driving normally and safely until u are able to get dyno tuned by a professional.
I will take some pics of my setup 2morrow and possibly add some Vids, i hope this helps the guy who is pulling out his hair right now because every1 keeps telling him different things to try, if u need further help, just PM me and i'll hit u back
GOOD LUCK!!!!
were my MAF sits on the charge pipe before the throttle body and after the BOV.
Now these points may have been made on another thread bu im going to post them for any1 that is changing their setup to blow thru or any1 that needs a base map and how to hook up your AEM uego.
This is my experience and how my current setup is for my blow thru MAF
1. find a welder or fabricator and have them build u a maf plate on your charge pipe and CONVERT TO A BLOW THRU MAF SETUP. this instantly and largely cleans up the way your tC performs, idles, goes into boost,
my car feels like it did when i first bought it smooth and consistant NO HESITATIONS OR STUMBLES.plus u can effectively use your atmospheric bov.
2. primary O2 sensor- this thing is a joke, u dont need that factory primary O2 sensor or the secondary o2 sensor.
What u do need is an AEM uego, u simply install the uego in your downpipe off your turbo. thats it.
3. AEM/FIC here's the link http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php?topic=19962.0
On that page you will see above the maf clamp pic, in small font a downloadable pdf. file Scion tC wiring diagram, that will tell you wire for wire how to install ur AEM/FIC
4. Buy a AEM uego, install it in place of ur OEM O2 sensor, U DO NOT NEED 2 BUNGS. just one for the uego. put the OEM O2 sensor away or sell it on eBay it doesnt matter.
5. I used the ignition and ground off my radio for the AEM uego, the free wires coming off the uego are red-power, black-ground, blue-not used, white-5volt input, now connect the white wire to the brown wire marked "AUX input" on the AEM/FIC.
This is how ur going to communicate to the ECU proper afrs.
6. PM me if u want the basemap, this is the same base map crush sent to me over a year ago, THIS BASEMAP IS ALMOST PERFECT. its way better than Dezods downloadable base map on there website
this is the same base map my tuner used to create my 269whp 255tq on 8psi on a tiny turbo.
7. once u have the AEM/FIC installed, your AEM uego, your blow-thru MAF setup, and the basemap from me.
Follow these simple directions:
open the AEM/FIC software.
ope file, DOUBLE CLICK ON THE BASE MAP U DOWNLOADED FROM ME, make sure ur laptop is connected to the FIC (follow AEM's directions on connecting to software)
the basemap already has the uego calibrated, and the tune is pretty on point in closed loop.
when u start the car the afrs might be a little lean 15-16.5
all u do to correct this is go into the boost pressure fuel map and make your adjustments there.
u will see where fuel is being taken away for different amounts of boost
u simply add a little more fuel in each cell 1 rpm breakpoint at a time till u get the desired afr shown on ur uego. its that simple
so if ur at 14psi-which is sea level and are pulling -42.00 fuel and ur uego is reading 16.3 try changing it to -38.00 and ur AFR will in turn grow richer
u continue these steps until u get desired AFR at whatever load, boost, rpm u want,
I didn't mess with the ignition timing yet because my afrs were always on point
even when going into 8psi, but this is just to get you driving normally and safely until u are able to get dyno tuned by a professional.
I will take some pics of my setup 2morrow and possibly add some Vids, i hope this helps the guy who is pulling out his hair right now because every1 keeps telling him different things to try, if u need further help, just PM me and i'll hit u back
GOOD LUCK!!!!
Last edited by MR_LUV; 01-10-2018 at 09:01 AM. Reason: typos
#2
Oh yea we did all this while monitoring the car with a $3k, OBD II Scan Tool from Mac Tools, that my brother got from his job, hes a Nissan tech.
we pulled no codes at all, other than the heated O2 code because the factory O2 sensor was missing,
no knock, no misfires everything worked perfectly so u will show a cell but who cares ur boosted!!!
no but if ur really that worried about showing a cell than get a scan tool or have Autozone do 1 for u for free and it should check out fine
we pulled no codes at all, other than the heated O2 code because the factory O2 sensor was missing,
no knock, no misfires everything worked perfectly so u will show a cell but who cares ur boosted!!!
no but if ur really that worried about showing a cell than get a scan tool or have Autozone do 1 for u for free and it should check out fine
Last edited by MR_LUV; 01-10-2018 at 08:56 AM.
#4
Yeah. I realize that if you have the wideband you don't technically need the factory O2 sensor, but I feel it's worth leaving it in just to keep a CEL off your cluster. An extra bung cost me $10 to have welded in and it took literally 15 minutes (which included getting it on and off the lift). For your quick tune to be able to drive to your tuner, however, this isn't a bad deal. Good write-up!!
#6
Interesting idea to remove the oem ND nernst cell wideband AFR sensor and replace it with the UEGO's Bosch nernst cell wideband AFR sensor. This will place the ECU in permanent open loop and the ECU will make no fuel trim adjustments based on AFR data. It should work quite well on a dyno. It probably won't work very well for daily driving or in the event that anything changes, such as altitude, ECT, IAT, etc. You'll also have a permanent CEL and fail every emissions test in every state that requires them.
On my car my combined LTFT & STFT varies by 25-30% from cold idle to hot idle. The primary AFR/O2 sensor allows the ECU to compensate for this. Removing the AFR sensor will force you to tune for either hot or cold or try to find a compromise that won't work very well for either. Good luck with that setup!
BTW, just to clarify, the FIC does not "communicate" with the oem ECU. All the FIC does is intercept and modify sensor signals to the ECU and drive the fuel injectors based on fuel pulses from the oem ECU with modified durations. When the UEGO is connected to the FIC it is only for logging purposes. The FIC has no logic that enables it to modify fuel pulse durations based on AFR feedback like the oem ECU does. The FIC is a static user-programmable piggyhack that crudely modifies dynamic data from the much more sophisticated self-learning oem ECU. If I could communicate with or re-program my oem ECU, I'd toss my FIC in the trash.
On my car my combined LTFT & STFT varies by 25-30% from cold idle to hot idle. The primary AFR/O2 sensor allows the ECU to compensate for this. Removing the AFR sensor will force you to tune for either hot or cold or try to find a compromise that won't work very well for either. Good luck with that setup!
BTW, just to clarify, the FIC does not "communicate" with the oem ECU. All the FIC does is intercept and modify sensor signals to the ECU and drive the fuel injectors based on fuel pulses from the oem ECU with modified durations. When the UEGO is connected to the FIC it is only for logging purposes. The FIC has no logic that enables it to modify fuel pulse durations based on AFR feedback like the oem ECU does. The FIC is a static user-programmable piggyhack that crudely modifies dynamic data from the much more sophisticated self-learning oem ECU. If I could communicate with or re-program my oem ECU, I'd toss my FIC in the trash.
Last edited by ScionFred; 03-24-2010 at 08:24 AM.
#9
gwopsta have u no idea what the factory o2 sensor is there for... you will never hit closed loop with out it, yes tuning in just open loop is easier/cheaper, but good luck trying to drive in canada right now on your tune, if u had closed loop it would compensate for altitude, climate ..ect
for you to go out and tell people they dont need something is completely insane
for you to go out and tell people they dont need something is completely insane
#10
gwopsta have u no idea what the factory o2 sensor is there for... you will never hit closed loop with out it, yes tuning in just open loop is easier/cheaper, but good luck trying to drive in canada right now on your tune, if u had closed loop it would compensate for altitude, climate ..ect
for you to go out and tell people they dont need something is completely insane
for you to go out and tell people they dont need something is completely insane
then dont use it, this isnt manditory..all my afrs checked out fine, but no i didnt test drive the car to canada last nite so i dont know what will happen to my afrs then lol
and im not the first to find or use this information i already posted the thread i found, that was written on scionlife where he said the factory o2 is not needed when running a aem uego wideband
BUT IF THIS INFO IS NOT USEFUL 2 U, THAN DONT USE IT...I COULD CARE LESS ABOUT ALTITUDE COMPENSATION BECAUSE IM NOT PLANNING ON DRIVING TO "CANADA" LIKE U SAID
#11
u bsaid i needed my o2 sensor in the other thread in order to get my car to run
ummmmmmmmmmm.....no o2 sensor installed....um 14.3-14.7 perfect idle afr
ummmmmmmmmmmmm.....no o2 sensor.....wow it must be magic because the great cburg cant be wrong right???
gtfo
ummmmmmmmmmm.....no o2 sensor installed....um 14.3-14.7 perfect idle afr
ummmmmmmmmmmmm.....no o2 sensor.....wow it must be magic because the great cburg cant be wrong right???
gtfo
#12
Aha, You might not drive to canada bud, but here are some other things to consider, We are in florida
Temps can get as hot as 100 degrees at 100% humidty. And then the next day be 60 and raining. You dont wanna carry your labtop around every time u drive!
Different gas stations, different qualitys of gas. The aem fic has the ablilty to control closed loop tuning.. So why not use it? and make life easier?
Temps can get as hot as 100 degrees at 100% humidty. And then the next day be 60 and raining. You dont wanna carry your labtop around every time u drive!
Different gas stations, different qualitys of gas. The aem fic has the ablilty to control closed loop tuning.. So why not use it? and make life easier?
#14
this setup has been way easier than anything ive tried b4
my car drives like it did when it was n/a. it took me 5 min to create a perfect afr ratio of 14.7, wth can be more easy than that
oh and i have a minitop so its not a problem
my car drives like it did when it was n/a. it took me 5 min to create a perfect afr ratio of 14.7, wth can be more easy than that
oh and i have a minitop so its not a problem
#15
^^ maybe you just wanna edit your post a bit, some sort of disclaimer.. You might convince new boosted guys to do this on their daily driver then later they mess up their car. Closed loop is a very important feature, using a piggyback or standalone.. yeah race boxes have closed loop so it can also be safe on the streets. You will need new tunes on multi climate locations or where there is significant changes in elevation.
#18
if u dont know how to take everything posted on here w/ caution than ur dumb
but i'll edit the title if it makes u guys happy, F_ it it, i'll just close the thread
i thought i was doing something nice by posting a write up on MY EXP. WITH MY BLOW-THRU SETUP. but 4get it
but if any1 needs a almost perfect basemap and not that crap u get from dezod, holla at me
GOOD LUCK!!
but i'll edit the title if it makes u guys happy, F_ it it, i'll just close the thread
i thought i was doing something nice by posting a write up on MY EXP. WITH MY BLOW-THRU SETUP. but 4get it
but if any1 needs a almost perfect basemap and not that crap u get from dezod, holla at me
GOOD LUCK!!
#20
so elevation what do u think the afr would change to, on say a 100degree day with a tune made on a 70 degreen day at 14.7??