shoot me a text when you get the time buddy we need you to get ready for opening day at the track!

 

I see there is an electric pump here, but I can't tell if it is for feeding or returning?

Sweet shoe box for sure!

 

I just drop 3k on my build, because of this thread. Having my head built, port and polished on BC parts.@Tom how those BC s3 cams run on your build?

 

the head on the car is messed up i can see the valve stem through the cam follower(Bucket shim) will have some idea soon on what let loose. just wouldn't recommend to rev past 7500 i did 8K+ and i think it was the cause of the damage.

 

but i think u should be fine the car with my turbo maid power till 8 so the cams definitely help.

 

Droped the car off last night to Mike at boostworks

 

I am just hoping no pistoncontact happened.

 

i think its safe to say that aftermarket buckets are an absolute must when running aftermarket cams. you're the third person in recent memory now that has worn through them.

 

I believe ptuning uses oem buckets on there head as well.

here a pic not the best but will have more soon.

 

Also brett how is your build coming along.

 

thought they used supertech? my build is chugging along btw.

 

Not to point fingers but when i was ordering the new shims two companies told me just to use the OEM ones, one even told me to call trd sparks toyota. so i am guessing they both use oem shims on there built head. Also this time around i will most likely use stock cams, just brought a condo spent a lot of what i had saved but its a nice lol. i just hope to make 500+whp on stock cams and i will stop at 7500 this time. Also i hope to make it to the track this year i would like to see low 11s. on a full body tc

 

Well let me state first off that if the head was not shimmed right from the get go with the new BC cams this can and will cause premature bucket failure.

 

I really don't think it was the cam follwers, I belive a lot of people use OEM ones all the time without issue. If it was just the cam follower I should still have good compression no? I don't have any compression and the leak down told me it was the exhaust side. I just think from me revving the car to 8k+ it did some damage. I really think I hit the valve with the piston.

 

Was told the sweet spot with the 2az is 7800rpms. Gushi and Rado both spoke that to me.

 

That's HEAVILY contingent upon the cam, turbo and complete setup as a whole. What's sweet for their cars with $100K into them and plenty of custom mods along with no stock components will not be the same for your ride. Just saying Trav...

 

Yea I would like to get double wound spring gs this time and stick with 7700

 

What custom mods in their fully built blocks are you referring to, as the fully built motor is what I'm referring to. How many different ways can you do a fully built long block. No stroker kit, as that may vary slightly. But from a general point of view, fully built, I would run somewhere between the range of 7500-7800rpms. PTuning if I recall runs 7800rpms as well. And that's a built motor like we would build a motor. Nothing custom needs to be done to run 7500-7800rpms.

It's a given that I'm excluding the turbo being utilized. Just talking about the 2az itself. Consensus I got was that anything over 7800 was not worth it.

 

bore size, compression, cam profile, intake setup - the list goes on.

 

Someone understands....Thanks Mike,

Pistons alone:
Compression
Bore Size
Brand
Ring design

Rods:
Brand
Stroke (possibly destroked some)
Rod bolt
Material
Design

Intake manifold design

Cam:
Brand
Profile
Lift
Duration @ .050

Valve spring:
Brand
Dual would? Single?
Seat pressure?
Open pressure?
Coil bind?

Shimming used with cam profile and such

Turbocharger:
Trim?
Brand?
BB?
Turbine A/R?
Boost?
Wheel design? Billet? Custom Billet? Cast?

Manifold details?

Engine management tune accounting for this?

Head port design?

I am sure you get the gist now Trav. Not picking a fight, just stating facts.