First time boost questions
06-15-2011, 11:43 PM
#102
i reset my ECU like DeAnzaJig told me to and still nothing AFR's are still 17.6-18.0 then to blank. I start the car they start at 14.8 then creep down to the red then go blank and stay blank. The car's wanting to stall out a bit.
06-16-2011, 08:52 PM
#107
FYI, it includes 9" of straight aluminum, with a CNC machined flange and hand tig welded onto the pipe. It's more than you may think for the $....
06-16-2011, 09:12 PM
#109
so new questions have come up...
1) i want to have a muffler shop make me a 3 inch exhaust, should i get it from the turbo back or from the s-pipe back? the downpipe and s-pipe are 2.5" and how many resonators? and whats the price range for a turboback or spipe back 3 inch.
1) i want to have a muffler shop make me a 3 inch exhaust, should i get it from the turbo back or from the s-pipe back? the downpipe and s-pipe are 2.5" and how many resonators? and whats the price range for a turboback or spipe back 3 inch.
Could be several places....Should be reading around 20" of HG
So i went to the shop today, since the pipe that wasnt clamping on right was bent after it had blown off, making it read like 11ingh on my boost gauge at idle and it was 12-13 before this happened so obviously i had a leak somewhere, we got one of those 3 inch MAF adapters from pep boys to mount the maf and put 3 inch to 2.5 inch reducer couplers and he put in new spark plugs (ngk) dont know the number but i will get it tomorrow, my plugs before today were ngk coppers and were gapped to 0.26, he gapped the new ones to 0.30 i dont think they were cipper but i might be wrong, anyways he redid the vacuum lines and told me i was getting a bad reading on vacuum because i was getting vacuum from somewhere that wasnt the best so now im getting vacuum from the back of the valve cover valve i think its the pcv valve and it gets t'd off to the vacuum block. Started it up and vacuum went to 20 ingh so normal there now, BUT now my afr's are reading nothing at idle or 17.8-18.0. But now in boost it reads the full 7 psi in full boost and before it was only readimg about 4-5 cuz of the leak, the afr's in boost were 10.7 today after i took it from the shop but read wat i said at idle. Any input? I need help? Should i disconnect the battery to reset the ECU? Wat should i do?
The MAF should never be in a transition pipe, at least 4" from BOV, in a bend or near ANYTHING like dryer ducting that can cause turbulence.
Sounds like you need to iron out all of your mechanic/install related items CORRECTLY, THEN invest in a quality tune.
06-17-2011, 07:27 AM
#114
I haven't seen anything that poorly designed and implemented since cburglb34 was allowed to post here.
06-17-2011, 05:47 PM
#115
Yea you kinda went overboard there buddy...I appreciate the constructive criticism but you went overboard. You haven't even seen my set up so you have no room to talk, it only started to run like ____ when the 3" Maf pipe got put on, i just ordered a 2.5" pipe from Dezod so i assume it will go back to running good even better now that the vacuum leaks are fixed. I made 273whp 269 ft/lbs on 7 psi on this "butt-ugly" set up so you have no room to talk, before you come in flaming people just stop and think -________-
on another note, you think the turbulence and running like ____ will be fixed since im going back to 2.5" MAF pipe?
on another note, you think the turbulence and running like ____ will be fixed since im going back to 2.5" MAF pipe?
06-17-2011, 07:00 PM
#116
It didn't sound so bad last night when I wrote it but then I was kinda drunk at the time... sorry dude. My bad.
What can be seen in the photos you posted is pretty messed up though. As Paul said, the BOV should be before the MAF. The MAF tube should be 2.5" ID and your PCV system should be connected or at least put a filter on there. I suppose what I meant to say is that there are some fundamental issues that need to be addressed before tuning it.
The 2.5" MAF pipe should help a lot but the MAF should be where the BOV is now and the BOV should be as far in front of the MAF as possible. The PCV connection should also be before and as far from the MAF as possible. All boost pipes should be bead rolled or at least have a bead welded on so they don't keep blowing apart. If you do it right the first time, you won't have to keep fixing things.
Good luck.
What can be seen in the photos you posted is pretty messed up though. As Paul said, the BOV should be before the MAF. The MAF tube should be 2.5" ID and your PCV system should be connected or at least put a filter on there. I suppose what I meant to say is that there are some fundamental issues that need to be addressed before tuning it.
The 2.5" MAF pipe should help a lot but the MAF should be where the BOV is now and the BOV should be as far in front of the MAF as possible. The PCV connection should also be before and as far from the MAF as possible. All boost pipes should be bead rolled or at least have a bead welded on so they don't keep blowing apart. If you do it right the first time, you won't have to keep fixing things.
Good luck.
06-17-2011, 09:28 PM
#117
Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 597
Sebby, you have the pipe on backwards. ive done this before with the ZPI kit. switch it around, and it should fit snugly and be in the proper order. i can tell because the crank case vent is on the oppisite side, meaning its backwards. flip it around with the old MAF pipe, and see what happeneds