Ideas for better cooling
Senior Member
Scikotics
SL Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,129
From: Houston, TX (Puerto Rico)
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom0613
so the koyo radiator that he is running is worst then stock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by draxcaliber
lol, the koyo radiator that dezod also sells! lol.
Come on now, I always look up for your opinion guys. I can't completely describe how well the over-sized Koyo setup has worked, instead of the stock rad. I mean, it was day and night difference (in a good way).
One thing I can agree on is optimal temp to slightly higher than, is better for fuel economy. Also there is less wear of the engine, I remember doing some research on that before I jumped the gun. Now I don't mind getting constant 175 temp, rather than 182 (lowest) to 230 or more all through out the day. I'm sure some might agree with me that keeping detonation in check might be more important that wearing the engine a whole 500 miles sooner (theory) for running too cool, which I'm certain I'm not.
Not being a butt, just my personal experience.
Originally Posted by tom0613
so the koyo radiator that he is running is worst then stock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by draxcaliber
lol, the koyo radiator that dezod also sells! lol.
This is true, but it's also true that most anyone who has a decent offering for the tC sells them as well. Or worse the Mishimoto.
Quote:
Originally Posted by draxcaliber
alright, so did some observations just now when i got home from work without letting the car cool off.
while sitting idle in the driveway with the hood shut and no a/c or fans on, but the dial set to max heat, the water temp would get up to 202 degrees, fans would come on and temps would go 204 and then down to 198 where the fan would shut off.
intake air temperatures however would continue to clime from about 15 degrees above ambient (76 degrees) to an astounding 147 degrees!
while the fans were on, i went and looked at the front of the car, my driverside grill is cool to the touch, while my passenger side grill is very hot, almost burning so.
so i popped open the grill, grabbed a long blade of grass and held it up to the fans. the driverside fan is pulling cool air from outside the engine compartment into the car, while the passenger side fan is blowing HOT air from the hotside of the turbo and downpipe through the radiator stupidly heating the coolant back up before going back into the engine. the plugs are one way, so i'm not sure how the polarity could be reversed unless we swap the wires.
anyway, then i let it idle with the hood completely open. water temps got down to 170 or so, never going over 180. and then the intake air temps dropped to 119. which is pretty good since the car was heat soaked. so a better vented hood seems like a good idea since the kaminari hood vent is just right over the radiator, and not the manifold and such.
However, I tell it like it is and I'm not going to recommend something I don't think will help a customer, but if you really gotta have it, I won't not sell it to you either.
These cars are designed to operate at temperatures around 200*F. Toyota and other manufactures do this for a reason, more heat in the engine = better combustion and thus better fuel economy.
A lower temp thermostat might help lower the over all temps but then again sometimes they just stay open longer and don't give the coolant enough time in the radiator to disapate the heat and then they start cycling open and closed more. Your best bet is a higher pressure rad cap and good fans.
Quote:
Originally Posted by draxcaliber
alright, so did some observations just now when i got home from work without letting the car cool off.
while sitting idle in the driveway with the hood shut and no a/c or fans on, but the dial set to max heat, the water temp would get up to 202 degrees, fans would come on and temps would go 204 and then down to 198 where the fan would shut off.
intake air temperatures however would continue to clime from about 15 degrees above ambient (76 degrees) to an astounding 147 degrees!
while the fans were on, i went and looked at the front of the car, my driverside grill is cool to the touch, while my passenger side grill is very hot, almost burning so.
so i popped open the grill, grabbed a long blade of grass and held it up to the fans. the driverside fan is pulling cool air from outside the engine compartment into the car, while the passenger side fan is blowing HOT air from the hotside of the turbo and downpipe through the radiator stupidly heating the coolant back up before going back into the engine. the plugs are one way, so i'm not sure how the polarity could be reversed unless we swap the wires.
anyway, then i let it idle with the hood completely open. water temps got down to 170 or so, never going over 180. and then the intake air temps dropped to 119. which is pretty good since the car was heat soaked. so a better vented hood seems like a good idea since the kaminari hood vent is just right over the radiator, and not the manifold and such.
However, I tell it like it is and I'm not going to recommend something I don't think will help a customer, but if you really gotta have it, I won't not sell it to you either.
These cars are designed to operate at temperatures around 200*F. Toyota and other manufactures do this for a reason, more heat in the engine = better combustion and thus better fuel economy.
A lower temp thermostat might help lower the over all temps but then again sometimes they just stay open longer and don't give the coolant enough time in the radiator to disapate the heat and then they start cycling open and closed more. Your best bet is a higher pressure rad cap and good fans.
Come on now, I always look up for your opinion guys. I can't completely describe how well the over-sized Koyo setup has worked, instead of the stock rad. I mean, it was day and night difference (in a good way).
One thing I can agree on is optimal temp to slightly higher than, is better for fuel economy. Also there is less wear of the engine, I remember doing some research on that before I jumped the gun. Now I don't mind getting constant 175 temp, rather than 182 (lowest) to 230 or more all through out the day. I'm sure some might agree with me that keeping detonation in check might be more important that wearing the engine a whole 500 miles sooner (theory) for running too cool, which I'm certain I'm not.
Not being a butt, just my personal experience.
Last edited by Carlanga; Jul 10, 2010 at 06:18 AM.
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 782
From: Buffalo, NY
No problem it's understandable. I think keeping the coolant temps down is great for keeping detonation down. You want warm coolant in the block and cooler coolant in the head but since you can't do that without hardblocking the cylinder block you are stuck with warm coolant everywhere. Again they do this to try to keep it as a constant which keeps the car running correctly (optimal fuel delivery and spark timing). Engines that get too cold make less power because they suffer from poor combustion and without fully burning the a/f mixture you get richer a/f readings which translates into less power. End of story.
Senior Member
Scikotics
SL Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,129
From: Houston, TX (Puerto Rico)
now that you say that, what about us running e85. Wouldn't that further affect the cooling thus less burning? Of coarse that's with upgraded cooling system added to the ecuation. Would 1 step hotter from current help with a complete burn? Last time I looked at the spark plugs they looked optimal, no sighs of rinnung rich nor lean. With that being said, I guess that everything is burning as it should right?
Only one looking a bit on the lean side was #4, but my guess is that it is because of the no-lift shift from the wot box. I don't use the 2-step though.
Only one looking a bit on the lean side was #4, but my guess is that it is because of the no-lift shift from the wot box. I don't use the 2-step though.
with the spal fans do you have them connected to a manual on/off switch? i been debating putting my 2 slim fans on a switch or just adding 2 extra fans and run those on a switch....today we finaly hit triple digits and damn my water temp gauge pretty much hits the 3rd notch after some stop and go traffic. its either this or go back stage0 and put the stock fans back on until i can find a place to make me a j-pipe...no one around here can make me one its sad!
____ NORIBILT!
i refuse to go there! and im tired of all these other pansy shops here who turn down my business and refer me to that ____ing place!
lol i went to a exhaust place and popped the hood the guy was either slow or just stupid cuz they wouldnt do it either! he didnt know wtf i was talking about!
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,024
From: Arvada, CO
xb have it tough there are no aftermarket radiators. when i first went turbo i put on 2 slim fans that didn't keep up couldn't run my ac and idling in traffic it would overheat. so i added two more and still didnt help it did a little but not much. finally i got sick of it i was on a mission to put my stock fans back in had to modify the housing but man i can run the ac and my water temps stay around 190-200 driving hard or idling in traffic. if i turn it off the fan relay isnt set till 204 so then the fans kick on for 30 seconds on a 100 degree day and cool it to 180 like that. try to put your stock fans back in they are about 5000-7500 cfm and can do that at large static pressure. at a static pressure of 2 iwc it was still flowing 8500 cfm together and with just my flow tent on it they were about 16000 cfm combined. i know the xbs have more room but maybe its possible on the tc
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
carid
Exclusive Sponsored Sales
2
Mar 30, 2015 07:08 AM
TheArrowOfGod
Scion tC 2G Owners Lounge
1
Feb 20, 2015 05:46 PM
