crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

just wrap those things back up and send em my way...lol

GUNNIST14

iTrader: (1)

WICKED MAN WICKED how much was the final price for wheels and lugs?

paul_dezod

Having been a former SSR owner of several years, I will bid you some warning Yev. SSRs are VERY light wheels. They are decent overall, but lack in a few fundamental areas. Let me explain further. My only recommendation is to order 1-2 spare wheels and I will tell you why......

I owned a set of SSR GT3s on my IS300. I had them for about 2 years and daily drove the car. The wheels are VERY thin in thickness which is how SSR boasts their huge weight reduction. What you compromise is the ability to withstand pot holes and bumps without bending. I am not a guy that hits potholes or curbs with his car at all. I had bent a wheel super easy. The finish also began to deteriorate after 1 year of owning too. The clear coat on the wheels began to flake and peel off. For the damn near $3K I spent on the set of 6......I was VERY disappointed and vowed to never own another set of Speed Star Racing wheels again. I figured I would pass this on a friend Yev.

On a side note, SSR is now owned by Tanabe whom bought the assets out of bankruptcy. I am fearful to see what the quality has come to now that they own the brand. Good luck Yev!!!!

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

those are nice wheels yev and lugs too! but yeah ive heard some ssr wheels are kinda weak but not all.. My SSR type C are holding fine so far, never heard durability issue on those wheels too.. but then I have few sets of wheels so they havent got much mileage yet

RusWolf

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the feedback guys !
SSR's look awesome I can't wait to put them on the car!
Paul thanks for the warning, I did some research on these wheels and did not find a single bad feedback so hopefully I won't run into bending problems!

Total price of the wheels AND lugs shipped at the end of the day came to $1450!

AAAAMMMMMAAAZZZIIINNNGGG right ?

my brother and I popped my valve cover open to check out the head and we think that timing chain tensioner broke or something happened. I made a video of that issue, maybe someone will help me out with how to fix it. At least I know that my block and most likely head is good. Car starts right away with no problems at all.

UPDATE:

Here is the video we made.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D40OZJFM9b0

GUNNIST14

iTrader: (1)

THat's the life of a tuner always something to fix eh. Hope you get it fixed soon Rus. By the way was that Russian I heard.

RusWolf

iTrader: (3)

I know right, this tuner life sucks lol, but i love driving this car because it's a beast when it's alive !

on a side note to answer your question yes it was in fact Russian that my brother spoke to someone on the background.

thendawg

iTrader: (2)

Definitely a bad tensioner. The tensioner has an anti pushback device that should allow it only to extend further, never retract, it appears that part is broke. (its a little tab on the bottom of the tensioner)

RusWolf

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for your reply,
I've never changed that part or even know what it looks like, do i have to pull the engine out to swap it or can it be done from the top ?
does it take long to swap ?
Do i have to align timing after changing it ?

crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

yev there is two nuts that hold the tensioner on, its fairly simple, unbolt the old, pull it out, take the new one and compress it. there is a little hook that you will use to old the tensioner compressed while you bolt it back in. once its in take a long flat head to flip the hook out of the way...now most of the time you can get away with just rotating the cam back and forth (without the chain slipping...be very careful of that) and that will push the tensioner back far enough to push the hook out of the way. good luck yev!!...btw if timeing marks are aligned then this process shouldnt require you to reset the timeing...but be careful, without a tensioner timeing may be off...so triple check it.

crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

RusWolf

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Chris ! Man i wish you were here so we can do it right now !

Chris do you have a picture of how tensioner looks like installed ? I'm trying to find a diagram that will tell me location of it so i can get an idea of how to get there the best.

Is there a way to verify that my cams are not stock ?

EDIT: Damn Chris you are a true G ! you posted those pics as i was typing this message to you !

crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

ima ninja in real life...lol

TJKASS

Being a previous owner of bc cams i can tell you definitely have a pair of them. BC is the only company i have known who doesnt chamfer the edges of the cam lobe, i.e. the lobe edges are perfectly square. Stock cams, and all regrinds of stock ones will be chamfered at least somewhere along the profile. Also lift on both cams looks about the same so Im assuming stage 2 FI cams. While you have the VC off you may want to check and make sure the lifters are the correct size for the new cams. Just use a feeler gauge between the back of the lobe and the lifter. Intake clearance should be between .007 and .010 inches, exhaust should be between .010 and .013. Very important that you are in these ranges to ensure longevity of the valvetrain. Best of luck with the tensioner.

Degreeing the cams isnt too hard, but very necessary. The factory repair manual does a good job of explaining it.

crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

^^ great post there

trd07tc

iTrader: (-1)

bad tensioner for sure

RusWolf

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all the replies !

I looked around for tensioners and found different brand going from $20 to $32.
Will it come with required spring ?

take a look at this link here, i'm not sure which brand to purchase.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...tensioner.html

tom0613

iTrader: (2)

Were are u located

RusWolf

iTrader: (3)

I'm not too far rolling/dollins diner or something like that.

brett561tc

for something as important as that, i would only buy an oem toyota brand part. i went through 4 or 5 master cylinders before buying one from the dealership, and haven't had a problem yet. all the aftermarket brands, like beck/arnley, broke within weeks. if you get a crappy tensioner that brakes and messes up your timing while under load, it could get expensive.