Thinking about putting in some K1 rods with the OEM pistons.
I know it is optimal to put in new aftermarket pistons while everything is torn apart. But will this work. Any thoughts welcome.

 

Like I mentioned in your other post, it doesn't seem like a good idea. Why put in the extra work to do this, then have the pistons crack later?

If you want to use stock pistons, just keep the stock rods. You're not replacing the weakest part of the chain here if you know what I'm trying to say.

 

I was also curious about giving the OEM pistons a good dose of shot peen?

 

i was told that this would work, but like b_real said, why put in the effort to have it fail later on....

 

You shouldn't shot peen parts that are finely milled and run against other metal parts at tight tolerances... Pistons are a prime example of something that shouldn't be shot peened.

Honestly, please save up for some pistons.

 

No need to save I already have a set but trying to make it as close to OEM as possible

 

If your pistons are low compression, then shave the head a little to make it higher again. Don't go too much.

 

get some piston with custom compression same as oem to get it close. but building and not replacing the piston, you are not building a stronger engine just a stronger rod.. though rods on our cars are the weakest, its not the only one that fails. it should work though for a moderate boost, reliable maybe 12-14psi. but once you rebuild you will be replacing some gaskets, studs and other stuff

 

i say keep the stock pistons....then push the motor till the pistons crack so we all know what our pistons will hold....cause we know the rods wont hold more then 350~....id be curios to see how much the pistons will hold

 

i can tell you how long the pistons hold with no rings #3 has been slapping the block for at least three weeks now. As long as i can drive it to work, it's still functional to me.

(btw, my other block is almost done, hopesfully end of this week)

 

소ㅑㄴ ㅑㅇㄷㅁ opps, Korean. This idea is ludicrous.

 

The ringlands on the oem pistons are to high for "high" boosted apps!

 

WAY TO HIGH OF A TOP RING LAND. The stock ring gap is also horrible to moderate boost applications(really anything over 8-10 psi daily) I think the stock top ring gap is only 4-5 thou? I cant remember right off.. as soon as you throw cyl pressure at it, the rings butt, and very very greatly intesify wear!

 

This brings me to what ive been wondering - ive got a crack ring landing on cyl 3 - luckilly the thing still runs fine - just a little bit of good ole blowby Ill be yanking the motor to fix it soon - so I have two options - replace shortblock - with new stock shortblock (with pistons, rods, and crank - they seem to be running about $500-600 in good condition) - Or bore this block out to 89mm and go with some wiseco pistons - all in all itd be about the same price. So what about the other way around, stock rods with aftermarket pistons (9:1 comp)? This way I wouldnt have to worry about the ring landing issue on the stock pistons - and i doubt id really be pushing what the stock rods can take - i never plan to push it past 300-320whp anyways - and yes im poor so an extra $400 for rods will make or break the deal unless i win the lotto sometime soon lol

 

dont risk it, go with a second shortblock and then sell your old block or sleeve it. im in the same boat, so i got a full motor from a junkyard for $100, and now im boring it while i drive mine which is got bad rings on #3 too.

 

i also got a new motor to work on, didn't trust the old one. Don't boost on that much of a budget thendawg, it only takes a little bad luck to be SOL big time, i have a just incase fund of a few hundred bucks for the car at all times lol.

 

Sounds like a good idea to increase the ring gap on boosted applications
After doing some reading - I will be using the oem rings gapped to:

Top - .39mm
2nd - .67mm
Oil - .42mm

OEM Standard Specifications:

Top - .22mm to .32mm
2nd - .50mm to .60mm
Oil - .10mm to .35mm

It is recommended to replace the rings if the ring gap excedes:

Top - .89mm
2nd - 1.35mm
Oil - .73mm

 

full motors in junk yards by you cost $100? wtf?