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My 2AZ Build

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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 07:13 AM
  #141  
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Any other reasons why it could be misfiring?
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 02:52 PM
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 04:42 PM
  #143  
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On the head studs, ARP has never made a stud for the 2AZ. We are simply re-purposing or using custom made studs. As far as I know the 07+ stud is custom produced for certain buyers, you will need to contact Dezod or Ptuning. As far as I know they are the only two that stock them.

As for management, I would def go with a standalone. I had way too many issues with FIC not being consistent pull to pull. Which one you should go with depends on what your tuner is comfortable with. Id def speak with him and see what he likes using, that way you end up with the best tune possible. AEM EMS seems the most common and I love mine, however Ive also had good experiences with Haltech and ProEFI.

As for injectors, what are your power goals? 550's arent going to get you far. Maybe 325whp on pump gas, if that. Id recommend 700's at minimum if youre sticking with pump gas, or 1000+ if going E85. 700's will get you well into the 400's on pump gas. Youll need at least a walbro 255 in the tank either way. Id highly recommend one of the Deatchwerks DW301 (300lph) pumps.

Finally, please dont take this the wrong way, the car looks great, however have you put much thought into how to put that power to the ground? Stretching a 225 tire on to a 9.5" wheel isnt going to help things at all. If you try you could prob set it up to fit a 265 or 275 tire which will really help with putting the power to the ground. Esp if you go with something like a Direzza Star spec, or something of that nature. With that current setup, even with only 300whp or so, youre gunna spin like crazy even from highway rolls.
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 05:24 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by thendawg
On the head studs, ARP has never made a stud for the 2AZ. We are simply re-purposing or using custom made studs. As far as I know the 07+ stud is custom produced for certain buyers, you will need to contact Dezod....
We have both 05-06 and 07-10 variants in stock and can ship today if need be.

http://www.dezod.com/cat_fasteners.cfm
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 09:15 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by thendawg
On the head studs, ARP has never made a stud for the 2AZ. We are simply re-purposing or using custom made studs. As far as I know the 07+ stud is custom produced for certain buyers, you will need to contact Dezod or Ptuning. As far as I know they are the only two that stock them.

As for management, I would def go with a standalone. I had way too many issues with FIC not being consistent pull to pull. Which one you should go with depends on what your tuner is comfortable with. Id def speak with him and see what he likes using, that way you end up with the best tune possible. AEM EMS seems the most common and I love mine, however Ive also had good experiences with Haltech and ProEFI.

As for injectors, what are your power goals? 550's arent going to get you far. Maybe 325whp on pump gas, if that. Id recommend 700's at minimum if youre sticking with pump gas, or 1000+ if going E85. 700's will get you well into the 400's on pump gas. Youll need at least a walbro 255 in the tank either way. Id highly recommend one of the Deatchwerks DW301 (300lph) pumps.

Finally, please dont take this the wrong way, the car looks great, however have you put much thought into how to put that power to the ground? Stretching a 225 tire on to a 9.5" wheel isnt going to help things at all. If you try you could prob set it up to fit a 265 or 275 tire which will really help with putting the power to the ground. Esp if you go with something like a Direzza Star spec, or something of that nature. With that current setup, even with only 300whp or so, youre gunna spin like crazy even from highway rolls.
Thanks lots of good info.

My power goals were 300-350whp, already got a Walbro 255 pump & I'll take a good look into injectors.

As for the wheels, it's all good, those are the tires I got the wheels with when I purchased them locally. I'm not driving hard or anything like that, main concern right now is to get the car running right.

I have already been looking into the AEM EMS, where would be a good place/vendor to buy one? I'm probably going to have to go with a universal or if anything maybe the xB2 one may work. The FIC I'm running right now is using a 08-10 xB PnP harness.

The engine is misfiring, shop told me codes shot out across from all four cylinders. They said it could be the maf sensor, but before I blew the pistons, the car hasn't misfired. I'm assuming it could be with the tune?

EDIT:

Also when I got the kit, it came with a 2nd set of injectors, the guy who sold it to me claimed they were 750 injectors. Being a noobie here, what's the importance of flow testing & cleaning them? I tried searching, but didn't have any luck finding anything about it.

Last edited by Dim; Dec 4, 2012 at 09:30 PM.
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 09:36 PM
  #146  
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I would recommend calling up Paul at Dezod for the AEM EMS. So here goes, intro to AEM EMS on the TC 101... There is no box for the tc, xb, etc. We basically use a Honda box, which is about as close to universal as it gets with the current EMS line. Several companies then made pnp harnesses for it. You can also use the EMS-4, but youll end up doing all the wiring yourself and it is NOT an easy task. Finally the new Infinity box is universal, however its extremely expensive, and same thing, would require you to handle all the wiring. If you were able to use an XB PNP harness for the FIC, you might be able to use an EMS with a PNP for the 08+XB, but no garauntees, there could be other issues, id have to see a wiring schematic and ECU pinout for both.
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 09:37 PM
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As for the injectors, Id recommend calling up Deatchwerks and having them flow/clean them. I believe the basic service is like $20/injector.
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 09:57 PM
  #148  
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Where could I find the schematics?
Old Dec 5, 2012 | 04:00 PM
  #149  
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I don't think the AEM EMS is in the budget right now..

You guys think if I get the FIC retuned, the misfire will stop? Or it could possibly be another factor?
Old Dec 5, 2012 | 04:08 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by Dim
I don't think the AEM EMS is in the budget right now..

You guys think if I get the FIC retuned, the misfire will stop? Or it could possibly be another factor?
How much boost are you running? What spark plugs? What gap? What fuel?
Old Dec 5, 2012 | 04:27 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by paul_dezod
How much boost are you running? What spark plugs? What gap? What fuel?
Tuned at 6psi low/10psi high, but haven't drove into boost at all since I got the car back.

1 step colder spark plugs, gap not sure at this moment.

Fuel is 93oct
Old Dec 6, 2012 | 03:22 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by Dim
Tuned at 6psi low/10psi high, but haven't drove into boost at all since I got the car back.

1 step colder spark plugs, gap not sure at this moment.

Fuel is 93oct
A simple re-tune should solve your issues.
Old Dec 7, 2012 | 06:39 AM
  #153  
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Shop I'm going to have it tuned at said I should wait after the break in period, which is 1500 miles they recommended. Is it bad if I have it tuned right away?

Or its fine the way its running until I hit 1500? Driving the car like a grandma would drive a manual Corolla, shifting every ~3k rpm and not driving over 70.
Old Dec 7, 2012 | 04:38 PM
  #154  
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Break in periods are pretty controversial. Id stick with what the shop tells you, that way if anything goes wrong, they cant blame it on you not following their procedure. Personally, once I put everything together, I fire it up, let it warm up all the way, insure everything runs smooth and there are no leaks, then I take it out on the street, do a couple laps close by the house to make sure theres nothing wrong, come back, change the oil, then take it out and beat the crap out of it lol. Now obviously this assumes the car already has a solid tune on it.

Also I guess I should clarify beating the crap out of it. Basically I do multiple 3rd gear pulls from about 3500rpm up to redline at wot. No shifting, simply letting off a couple hundred rpm before redline, then letting it engine brake down to ~2000rpm or so. I also do this at a lower boost setting, usually in my case running on wastegate pressure (like 18psi)
Old Dec 12, 2012 | 03:21 AM
  #155  
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IFO got a pic of my car at the show on Sunday.

Dim's Corolla Xrs Turbo
Old Dec 12, 2012 | 03:33 AM
  #156  
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did u take a pic of ur engine bay including the intake pipe? also were u able to buy bigger (new) injectors? Try scanning the car so u can see what codes you are pulling. and drive it normal until u can tune it and break it in fully on the dyno.

or send the "750cc's" to have them flow tested and cleaned and install those and have the shop just tune your closed loop/idle and cruise. just dont go into WOT cuz youll flood ur engine with fuel. with 750's you should be good to about 400-500whp. also get yourself a new fuel pump if that one was used.

excited for updates
Old Dec 12, 2012 | 04:12 AM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by sebbyxtc
did u take a pic of ur engine bay including the intake pipe? also were u able to buy bigger (new) injectors? Try scanning the car so u can see what codes you are pulling. and drive it normal until u can tune it and break it in fully on the dyno.

or send the "750cc's" to have them flow tested and cleaned and install those and have the shop just tune your closed loop/idle and cruise. just dont go into WOT cuz youll flood ur engine with fuel. with 750's you should be good to about 400-500whp. also get yourself a new fuel pump if that one was used.

excited for updates
Oops forgot about that, I'll try and get that soon for ya.

I'm gonna try and get those '750cc's' checked out, and I'll retune it once I hit 1500 miles, fuel pump will be coming later on.
Old Dec 19, 2012 | 05:21 PM
  #158  
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Short sound clip, will get more vids soon hopefully

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xXIi...ature=youtu.be
Old Dec 20, 2012 | 03:46 AM
  #159  
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You have one clean xrs.
Old Dec 30, 2012 | 06:08 PM
  #160  
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Went on a photoshoot with my bro while he's in town.

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(Yeah I know, the seals for the my headlights need to be done again)



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