750 you might be close to maxing them out. Im sure others can chime in.

 

Here are some pics I took of the other day



Barely cleared it hehe


But the exhaust didn't You can see the scrape on the street


Off we go

 

Would you guys in general just upgrade the injectors to the 550 and the fuel pump to the walbro 255 since i got 'em?

 

Get more than 550 n get a fuel return kit (or make your own cheaper) n then go e85 n have 2 maps one for e n one for 93 n u will be kickin ___ in the roller!

Sidekick 4G

 

Motor getting ready to be sent off to the machine shop



Damage done to the 4th cylinder, very minimal scratching, a fingernail can't be caught in it.



and last but not least, the ring landings went out and chunks of the piston broke off as well, some of the bits and pieces were found in the oil pan.

 

How beneficial are ARP headstuds for the build?

Shop that's doing the rebuild is looking at ~$400 additional labor for install on it... what do you guys think? Trying to keep the build down to a minimum, but don't wanna cut corners as well.

 

Surprising news, when I stopped by the other day, I found out that where was a OEM clutch in the tranny, I was a bit confused because I had a buddy of mine put in a ACT clutch, I talked to him about it and he told me when he installed the ACT, it was to stiff for the clutch to engage.

I thought he fixed the problem, but I guess he went with OEM, in the end I didn't get ripped because I looked at my boxes and I do still have the ACT clutch.

But the problem at the time was that when the ACT clutch was installed, the car couldn't start in gear, but you can shift gears. When moved to neutral, the car can start but when trying to ____ into gear it'll grind.

Thing is, the current shop the car is at now said they would try and put in the ACT clutch for free since the tranny is dropped and give it a shot to see if they can figure it out, but if the same scenario happens again, I'd have to pay labor again to swap it back to the OEM.

What do you guys think?

I'm not sure how much the stock clutch can handle as well.

 

Same thing was happening with mine. Buy the extended push rod and it will fix the problem. Get a new OEM Toyota Throw Out Bearing as well, dont use the ACT one.

Any updates from the machine shop?
Oh and $400 seems kinda high just to install the ARP head studs, ask him why.

And yea u do need them..

 

ring land death...lol

 

I did buy a extended push rod, this one, http://speed-source.net/?wpsc-produc...clutch-pushrod

not sure if it got the job done. Oh and I did put in a new OEM throw out bearing when I got the clutch replaced.

As for the headstuds, I'm not sure about the procedure for the 2az, but he was saying something about how he has to remove the camshaft to do the work.

 

Well the shop finally got the block yesterday from the machine shop

They'll start assembling the block tomorrow! So hopefully I should be looking at getting the car sometime next week, but who knows :whatthe

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Ooh and I also haven't updated what I've been up to... I've been posting it up on IG (Instagram) though! :thumbup:

Test fitted on my buddy's 2009 Matrix, but they are for the Xrs :thumbup:

I made the photo B&W so you guys can't see the color of the new wheel setup :D

 

Made a stop by the shop yesterday, and they already started assembling the engine

There's gonna be a pushback because the ARP headstuds were too long, what's weird though was that the set was made for a 2az-fe block, but when they were installed they were hitting the cams. The shop tried telling ARP the deal, but they were just saying that it was the correct product, even though it didn't fit?

Were just going back to new OEM replacements.

Anyways, here are some pics



And my IG Post

 

There are two different ARP studs. One for blocks before 07 and different set for 07+. IIRC the pre-07 ones are longer, but I cant remember for sure. The threads and everything are the same but the stud and thread lengths are completely different.

 

What thendawg said. You probably ordered the 05-06 ones. I would highly recommend ARP head studs

 

Some new pictures

Manley Rods & CP Pistons




Oil Pan with the broken pistons pieces and ring landings.

 

Will get pictures soon

On the other hand, engine is good, but there's a few things.

Misfiring on each cylinder, they said it could be a number of things, maf sensor, ecu, just to name those off the top of my head. Also the slave cylinder went out, so my clutch will drop every now and then.

My folks are really pushing me back to get the turbo kit off and return it back to stock, but I'm getting stressed, because I just went through this engine rebuild with upgraded internals, and now go back to na? :disappoin

Well to fix the issue, they say the bracket for the maf sensor on the intake pipe is off, (custom intake pipe, they say it wasn't welded on there perfectly straight) therefore not giving a accurate a/f reading for the car. They said they can take my old CAI, rig it to use the maf sensor bracket and utilize that.

I also got the 550 injectors and walbro 255 pump used, they say that may be a issue to, might be clogged.

Also a full standalone would help, I'm looking into the AEM EMS at the moment and I already ordered a new slave cylinder.

I'm still thinking about throwing in the towel because everything still isn't good.

But if I do decide to keep the turbo, do you guys think replacing the intake pipe with my old CAI pipe modded, getting a new slave cylinder (will obviously fix the sinking clutch pedal), full standalone & new tune, and maybe new fuel pump and injectors will make the car run smooth?

Hope you guys can give me a good response, I'm already in about ~$6k into the turbo build.

 

Yes, it might be your MAF it might not be. Your probably misfiring cuz your lower compression now and your running off a tune you had with stock compression. Send the injectors to get flow tested and cleaned and get yourself a new walbro. You should never buy a used fuel pump. If you have the money get bigger injectors, sell your current ones. And yes once again, if u have the money you'll get the most power with an ems.

Post a pic of the maf pipe.

 

Alright I'll get a pic, one question though, the FIC I'm using, I'm using a 08-10 xB PnP harness, would that harness work on the AEM EMS? Will the EMS help with the misiring or just power/reliability?

Oh and another one, is it bad driving while its misfiring? I can't get it tuned on the FIC right now until I break the engine in. Currently at about ~110miles and the shop said they can do it at 1500miles.

 

just my 2 cents but the fic runs like dog crap on the xrs...I can get it to sorta work but I never could get it perfect. then again i was dealing with a hacked up harness, so idk.

 

What EMS would you recommend? I'm looking into the AEM one... you think the xB PnP harness would work (if they have one) since that's the one being used on my FIC?