My Manifold Cracked once again....
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Scionetics
KAD
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,936
From: Western NY
Stir that stew pot Mike? 
Just what this forum needs, more drama than it already has.....Don lashing out at Rob and now he is on written warning for his behavior.
Furthermore, good luck with it all Chad. I know that you had the manifold rewelded a few times. Metal does not like to be continuously welded and rewelded. It tweaks, pulls, twists and more weld does not make it stronger either (to dispell that rumor I read earlier in this thread).
"The welded area if welded properly in a perfect world with filler rod will be stronger than the base metals individually."--Frank R
Metal should be prepped (mechanically or chemically or both), cut and fit with tacks then finish welded with no contaminants. With that being said, welds typically will fail if for example one a few things happen:
1) No enough penetration occurs (not enough heat or filler rod or both)
2) Improper noble inert gas used
3) Not enough gas coverage
4) Improper or poor prep of material before it's been welded***
5) Improper filler rod used
Number 4 is my suspicion as to why when you had the manifold rewelded locally and it did not hold. If the person did not do one of the 4 properly or poor combo of all of the above, the weld WILL fail. Simple as that.
The material surface should be completely FREE of any and all dirt, grime, fluids etc. The proper way for something like that is to mechanically clean, then chemically clean prior to the welding process. The proper filler rod and noble inert gas is chosen. The proper tungsten is chosen and amps on the welding machine are chosen based upon thickness of the metal being welded. The tungsten is to be ground in a contaminant free environment and should never touch anything other than the tourch. Contamination of ANY item mentioned above leads to contamination of your weld, which makes it prone to failure.
We all know why the manifold failed the first two times with improper install of said parts, but why it failed after that..............Only the Lord knows.
End of lesson on TIG. Class dismissed.
Just what this forum needs, more drama than it already has.....Don lashing out at Rob and now he is on written warning for his behavior.
Furthermore, good luck with it all Chad. I know that you had the manifold rewelded a few times. Metal does not like to be continuously welded and rewelded. It tweaks, pulls, twists and more weld does not make it stronger either (to dispell that rumor I read earlier in this thread).
"The welded area if welded properly in a perfect world with filler rod will be stronger than the base metals individually."--Frank R
Metal should be prepped (mechanically or chemically or both), cut and fit with tacks then finish welded with no contaminants. With that being said, welds typically will fail if for example one a few things happen:
1) No enough penetration occurs (not enough heat or filler rod or both)
2) Improper noble inert gas used
3) Not enough gas coverage
4) Improper or poor prep of material before it's been welded***
5) Improper filler rod used
Number 4 is my suspicion as to why when you had the manifold rewelded locally and it did not hold. If the person did not do one of the 4 properly or poor combo of all of the above, the weld WILL fail. Simple as that.
The material surface should be completely FREE of any and all dirt, grime, fluids etc. The proper way for something like that is to mechanically clean, then chemically clean prior to the welding process. The proper filler rod and noble inert gas is chosen. The proper tungsten is chosen and amps on the welding machine are chosen based upon thickness of the metal being welded. The tungsten is to be ground in a contaminant free environment and should never touch anything other than the tourch. Contamination of ANY item mentioned above leads to contamination of your weld, which makes it prone to failure.
We all know why the manifold failed the first two times with improper install of said parts, but why it failed after that..............Only the Lord knows.
End of lesson on TIG. Class dismissed.
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,156
From: Orlando, FL
Stir that stew pot Mike?
Just what this forum needs, more drama than it already has.....Don lashing out at Rob and now he is on written warning for his behavior.
Furthermore, good luck with it all Chad. I know that you had the manifold rewelded a few times. Metal does not like to be continuously welded and rewelded. It tweaks, pulls, twists and more weld does not make it stronger either (to dispell that rumor I read earlier in this thread).
"The welded area if welded properly in a perfect world with filler rod will be stronger than the base metals individually."--Frank R
Metal should be prepped (mechanically or chemically or both), cut and fit with tacks then finish welded with no contaminants. With that being said, welds typically will fail if for example one a few things happen:
1) No enough penetration occurs (not enough heat or filler rod or both)
2) Improper noble inert gas used
3) Not enough gas coverage
4) Improper or poor prep of material before it's been welded***
5) Improper filler rod used
Number 4 is my suspicion as to why when you had the manifold rewelded locally and it did not hold. If the person did not do one of the 4 properly or poor combo of all of the above, the weld WILL fail. Simple as that.
The material surface should be completely FREE of any and all dirt, grime, fluids etc. The proper way for something like that is to mechanically clean, then chemically clean prior to the welding process. The proper filler rod and noble inert gas is chosen. The proper tungsten is chosen and amps on the welding machine are chosen based upon thickness of the metal being welded. The tungsten is to be ground in a contaminant free environment and should never touch anything other than the tourch. Contamination of ANY item mentioned above leads to contamination of your weld, which makes it prone to failure.
We all know why the manifold failed the first two times with improper install of said parts, but why it failed after that..............Only the Lord knows.
End of lesson on TIG. Class dismissed.
Just what this forum needs, more drama than it already has.....Don lashing out at Rob and now he is on written warning for his behavior.
Furthermore, good luck with it all Chad. I know that you had the manifold rewelded a few times. Metal does not like to be continuously welded and rewelded. It tweaks, pulls, twists and more weld does not make it stronger either (to dispell that rumor I read earlier in this thread).
"The welded area if welded properly in a perfect world with filler rod will be stronger than the base metals individually."--Frank R
Metal should be prepped (mechanically or chemically or both), cut and fit with tacks then finish welded with no contaminants. With that being said, welds typically will fail if for example one a few things happen:
1) No enough penetration occurs (not enough heat or filler rod or both)
2) Improper noble inert gas used
3) Not enough gas coverage
4) Improper or poor prep of material before it's been welded***
5) Improper filler rod used
Number 4 is my suspicion as to why when you had the manifold rewelded locally and it did not hold. If the person did not do one of the 4 properly or poor combo of all of the above, the weld WILL fail. Simple as that.
The material surface should be completely FREE of any and all dirt, grime, fluids etc. The proper way for something like that is to mechanically clean, then chemically clean prior to the welding process. The proper filler rod and noble inert gas is chosen. The proper tungsten is chosen and amps on the welding machine are chosen based upon thickness of the metal being welded. The tungsten is to be ground in a contaminant free environment and should never touch anything other than the tourch. Contamination of ANY item mentioned above leads to contamination of your weld, which makes it prone to failure.
We all know why the manifold failed the first two times with improper install of said parts, but why it failed after that..............Only the Lord knows.
End of lesson on TIG. Class dismissed.
what i ment was he's trusting a 100.00 manifold to take his car to 500whp..
Over a dezod manifold..
Kinda of like a , You really think a 100.00 manifold is better than a dezod manifold.. I know were not always on the same page paul.. But i give you credit were credit is due.. Just like the injector thread..
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Scionetics
KAD
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,936
From: Western NY
Maybe i should have been more clear...
what i ment was he's trusting a 100.00 manifold to take his car to 500whp..
Over a dezod manifold..
Kinda of like a , You really think a 100.00 manifold is better than a dezod manifold.. I know were not always on the same page paul.. But i give you credit were credit is due.. Just like the injector thread..
what i ment was he's trusting a 100.00 manifold to take his car to 500whp..
Over a dezod manifold..
Kinda of like a , You really think a 100.00 manifold is better than a dezod manifold.. I know were not always on the same page paul.. But i give you credit were credit is due.. Just like the injector thread..
No harm, no foul Mike....
It has been crazy on here lately between Rob and Don etc....just seemed like another poop storm forming.........trying to nip it at the bud.
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,156
From: Orlando, FL
The interweb is deceiving Mike and is difficult to read between the lines due to lack of non-verbal cues, tone of voice and facial cues as well....
No harm, no foul Mike....
It has been crazy on here lately between Rob and Don etc....just seemed like another poop storm forming.........trying to nip it at the bud.
No harm, no foul Mike....
It has been crazy on here lately between Rob and Don etc....just seemed like another poop storm forming.........trying to nip it at the bud.
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SL Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,893
From: Germantown, MD
as stated above i wouldnt go into saying its is better than the dezod manifold since dezods will last up to weather n corrosion much better, but i would say as for structual integrity the 100 dollar manifold comes out on top only cuz its a cast manifold, its been proven time after time cast is stronger, that being said if u ar eon a budget the ebay one is "bang for buck" but IMO if the money was no issue DEZOD FTMFW!!!!! dezod i love you guys i have used you guys for multiple turbo asscerories and brakes.
back on topic the ebay manifold slofo will be perfect in ur situation seeing as u donbt wanna dump mor emoney into something ur sellign and u wanna have it last till it sells lol
back on topic the ebay manifold slofo will be perfect in ur situation seeing as u donbt wanna dump mor emoney into something ur sellign and u wanna have it last till it sells lol
I agree with paul 100% on the welding info...its what all us welders learn from day one. surface prep is very important and without it you might as well hang it up cause your not doing anything but wasteing your time.
now if a weld looks like its thin you can weld on top of it (as long as you take heed what paul has just said) to add more material and this will help make the joint stronger. this doesnt mean you can sit there and keep on welding a "mound o crappy weld" and expect it to be strong. idk how to explain it anybetter than that, id have to show you.
now if a weld looks like its thin you can weld on top of it (as long as you take heed what paul has just said) to add more material and this will help make the joint stronger. this doesnt mean you can sit there and keep on welding a "mound o crappy weld" and expect it to be strong. idk how to explain it anybetter than that, id have to show you.
mike...a cast manifold is a cast manifold. end of story. im not saying one manifold is better then the other. all im saying is if chad gets the cast manifold he can see 500hp fine. its held 20psi for me with no problems. we cant all be fortunate enough to do the things you do. in a way....what im saying is...its his decision. stop sticking your head up p-tunings butt by pushing the ptuning kit. i hope there manifold has the same problems as dezod just to shut you up. now i am officially dipping out of this thread....chad man...you will be fine with the treadstone knock-off. just get it coated to prevent the rust issue i had.
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SL Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,156
From: Orlando, FL
mike...a cast manifold is a cast manifold. end of story. im not saying one manifold is better then the other. all im saying is if chad gets the cast manifold he can see 500hp fine. its held 20psi for me with no problems. we cant all be fortunate enough to do the things you do. in a way....what im saying is...its his decision. stop sticking your head up p-tunings butt by pushing the ptuning kit. i hope there manifold has the same problems as dezod just to shut you up. now i am officially dipping out of this thread....chad man...you will be fine with the treadstone knock-off. just get it coated to prevent the rust issue i had.
I tried setting him up with the guy who built my manifold for a dezod replica manifold.. but 400.00 was to much i guess...
not sure were you come off being a ___? i've always tried to help everyone on here. and dont push anything down anyones throat, [Unless she asks for it]
Banned
Scionetics
KAD
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,936
From: Western NY
I agree with paul 100% on the welding info...its what all us welders learn from day one. surface prep is very important and without it you might as well hang it up cause your not doing anything but wasteing your time.
now if a weld looks like its thin you can weld on top of it (as long as you take heed what paul has just said) to add more material and this will help make the joint stronger. this doesnt mean you can sit there and keep on welding a "mound o crappy weld" and expect it to be strong. idk how to explain it anybetter than that, id have to show you.
now if a weld looks like its thin you can weld on top of it (as long as you take heed what paul has just said) to add more material and this will help make the joint stronger. this doesnt mean you can sit there and keep on welding a "mound o crappy weld" and expect it to be strong. idk how to explain it anybetter than that, id have to show you.
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,024
From: Arvada, CO
I give this thread a a+ for most people acting like this forum is a soap opera we all need a group hug no homo of course manis crack plugs foul bearings go bad nothing is forever but the love we all share for turbos that being said every on chill
fu<k me....alright...i apologize mike. my lesson of the day, dont get high in the morning and try to post on scionlife. i make an ars out of myself. anyone.....that being said.....anyone down for some fluffy bunny cuddling? or some orgasmic turbo spooling? cept chad cause he has horrible luck.