Auto will produce less power so 260 at 5psi is out the window. Pulls trying to spool that thing all he way with an auto may never happen (correct me if I'm wrong).

We have an auto locally with a 16g and was pushing 9/10psi and was still getting only about 220 if I remember correctly.

What injectors are you running cuz you may want to look into upping those too.

Sell your car and buy an evo or a manual tc.lol

 

dude i made 242 at 6 psi ... 550cc's

cant sell .. LevelTen is building my tranny as we speak.

 

220 on what dyno..? if it was japtrix that reads mad low ..

 

to get a auto to get that power will be hard i dont think anyone had done it yet????

 

we shall see. with internals it wont be that hard. 242 at 6psi is a good start so well see what 14 psi gets me

Levelten said they build the torque converter based on what hp levels we are looking for so they made me one that would run GOLDEN somewhere near 350whp and is good for up to 400 whp

perfect shifts here we come

 

the slush box is a hard one what all are they doing to the tranny?

 

Bullet Proofing it.
Torque converter, valve body upgrades, hydro system, super oil pump.. etc etc.. basically it will be able to take punishment and make perfect shifts.. It wont be as good as VW's technology DSG but the shifts will be fast.

 

thats cool how big of a stall did you put in

 

No idea. I told them what i was looking to do with the car and they laid the map out for me.

 

hope its kinda high so you can power brake that bad boy at the line get some good spool

 

brake boost, hmm what is a good size stall to recommend to get put in?

 

well stock is probably somewhere around 2000 its usually the norm say 2500-3000

 

Not really... It will be hard to get an auto to hold that kind of power but not to get it there... As many have stated in the past, there are no differences between manual and auto motors, there is only added drive train loss due to the autos torque converter...

We built a manual tc that produced 380 hp on 16 psi with a 60-1 turbo and valve springs and retainers... The rest of the motor was stock... granted the car has an ebc and is not running 16 psi all the time, but the 380 hp was on pump gas... This car was build in the summer of 06.

We just finished a build friday night... another fully built manual tc less sleeves and cams. For now the rev limit is set for 5k to ensure a proper break in... Once the car has 500 miles on the new motor, we will have it dyno'd and I will post the results of the dyno along with a vid.

 

guy here did 380 drives every day might want to talk to him he is on the boards garybaldy

 

if im doin pistons, rods, bearings and head studs do i need valve springs and retainers aswell?

 

how many miles your car have and and dont take apart the head just take off the timing chain and pull the head off dont take out the cams or nothing like that

 

its gota bout 50k...

 

No.

 

k thats what i thought.
Calling japtrix 2morro to get a quote down. ill ask a few other shops aswell.

 

You have to remove the cams in order to take the head off... also if u do decide to do the work yourself, you will not be able to check the time accurately as the timing marks are between the chain and the sprokets and only line up when the car is first timed or if your lucky you pull the motor when the marks are due to line up again (highly unlikely)... Also keep the lifters in the same order... Number the inside of the lifters as you take them out and put them back in the same order. They may be set to different thinkness to help keep the cam in close contact with the valves... Taking these out of order will require that you check the clearance again before torquing the head down or you will get some lifter tick... The head should be torqued down to 54 lbs ft plus a 1/4 turn in a star pattern, and the 6mm cam bolts are to be toqued to 80 inch lbs and the 8 mm should be torqued to 22lbs.

I also recommend doing the head first before the block as that is where you make the most power... Building the head allows you to run a highier rpm with out the danger of dropping a valve... Building the block is going to allow you you run more power safer and will not make more power on its own with out raising the compression...