purevision01 what do you charge for a built shortblock? or your shop. I have been trying to find a place to get one but have been unsuccessful

 

bumpidy bump need an answer :D

 

nvm.. the gasket is good to go. ill post pics of my block and transmission soon

 

race engineering in lake worth.

http://www.raceeng.com/p-9054-mls-ga...0mm027-ea.aspx

 

What rod and main clearances are youguys running? Is .0025" too loose for high boost?

 

Shouldnt hit the gasket unless the block was decked... The piston from the factory is supposed to stop even with deck. So you shouldnt have a problem. Now if the piston height is a lot taller you might have a problem but i doubt it. Putting an over sized head gasket in there might cause the head to lift when in boost. IMO you should just put it together as is. If you still question it... turn the motor to tdc and see if the piston comes highier then the cylinder wall. If it does youll have bigger problems. Youd have to measure each cumbustion chamber to ensure they are all the same in volume. After that youll have to try and calculate what your new combustion ratio is. Good Luck

 

this thread is awesome.. everything you need to know

 

Every car will have slightly different clearance.... That clearance should be maintianed when changing your parts unless you are going to a lighter weight oil... When going to a lighter oil you wont tighter clearances to maintain oil pressure. There are advantages and draw backs to running tighter clearances. 1 advantage is running a lighter weight oil which will reduce engine friction and netting a whp gain that can be seen on the dyno. But the one draw back is if the oil pressure drops for any reason, you are highly likely to spin a rod or main bearing.

 

bump from the dead i know

anyone know what socket/tool is used to remove the cylinder head bolts?

 

is it possible a shop can set my rings so that if i push a certain amount of boost that theyll blow? someone told me the shop i go to likes to make them really tight so i dont get smoke.. my tuner said he talked to the shop and the guys at the shop said something about not going to far past 16 psi.

im so angry right now.. wtf did i build my motor for if i cant pass 16 psi.

 

hmmm... ive never heard of that before. but they may have installed rings that can only take a certain amount of pressure/power...

about my question for the cylinder head bolt..

its a 12 point internal wrench bit, but i cannot seem to find out the specific size that it has to be. i think im just going to go to the dealer and have them tell me the size i need.

its something like this...



but im not sure on what size is supposed to be used

 

The tool is a 3 square M10 its similar to a torque but not exactly... Anyway you wanna get something really strong from SnapOn or Craftsman... You go cheap with the tool and it will strip and destroy the bolt, requiring an extractor... Also makes sure it is long enough to extend into the head... The bolts near the sprockets have very little clearance.

As far as your shop telling you how much boost they recommend... This can be a result of 2 things... Either the piston is not meant for turbo applications meaning the ring lands are set high ( for N/A apps) or they believe the fuel system will not supply enough fuel to keep up with the volume of air delivered by the turbo. Hope this helps

 

Setting piston ring gaps are specific to the application... Setting they too tight will result in excessive cylinder wall contact, which will polish the cylinder walls and remove the cross hatching... This will prevent oil from filming between the oil ring the and cylinder wall and cause premature ring failure and the engine will smoke and create blow by over time... Setting the rings with too much gap will cause a loss of compression and increase blow and may cause the engine to smoke... Either way unless the motor is built to exact tolerances and spec you will have a problem.

 

alright cool thanks. I'm gonna head out to sears and see what they've got. if they don't have anything I'll try snap on

 

great post... good job

 

what is a average cost if i am building my engine wih a shop and i have all internals. for example i have the bearings ans rods and pistons? so how much would a shop charge?

 

how much ring gap do you guys suggest?

would a machine shop provide you with that when you get it blueprinted?

 

Generally a shop will charge 250-300 for a head and 500+ to do a bottom end.

 

Ring gap should be determined by the application and measured and confirmed by the shop doing the work... As for blueprinting - anything that requires a measurement whether it is weight for rotating assembly, bolt size, torque, or tolerances should be noted.