Ok now im nervous please read and input constructive critics
#1
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Ok now im nervous please read and input constructive critics
I JUST GOT MY TRACKING NUMBER FROM DEZOD!
This forum is bugging me out. I just turboed my vehicle, and it was tuned on a dynojet using a sniffer on my factory exhaust. My a/f gauge is on the way but the local shop claimed they tuned it to a safe afr, i believe he said the range was 11.8 to 12.5. I read in that forum many of different opinions for whats streetable. I notice when i drive my car without boost its a little jerky, and when im at a complete stop if i tap the gas my car usually will try to or manage to stall. now that thats out this is my first turboed car. i need to know a safe a/f ratio for street driving. i didnt buy the turbo kit for racing, although i want a little more power. I need to know whats safe for my motor. Kenny at zpi has offered to take a look at my emange tuning file and let me know of necessary changes but im trying to get an idea of where i should be at. im pretty sure my car shouldnt be trying to stall itself. another thing is when i start my car the emanage is green , good to go. it stays green until the car trys to stall itself and then the emanage flashes red. definitely not what i want to see. any ideas? keep this forum nice and dont bash each others kits, i just need to know a safe tune for my vehicle so i dont blow my motor up. another option i was considering was driivng to kentucky to visit the zpi family and allow them to tune it there, but im from around the beach area in virginia and im wondering what the difference will make in the tuning from being that far away. thanks for taking the time to read my book.
This forum is bugging me out. I just turboed my vehicle, and it was tuned on a dynojet using a sniffer on my factory exhaust. My a/f gauge is on the way but the local shop claimed they tuned it to a safe afr, i believe he said the range was 11.8 to 12.5. I read in that forum many of different opinions for whats streetable. I notice when i drive my car without boost its a little jerky, and when im at a complete stop if i tap the gas my car usually will try to or manage to stall. now that thats out this is my first turboed car. i need to know a safe a/f ratio for street driving. i didnt buy the turbo kit for racing, although i want a little more power. I need to know whats safe for my motor. Kenny at zpi has offered to take a look at my emange tuning file and let me know of necessary changes but im trying to get an idea of where i should be at. im pretty sure my car shouldnt be trying to stall itself. another thing is when i start my car the emanage is green , good to go. it stays green until the car trys to stall itself and then the emanage flashes red. definitely not what i want to see. any ideas? keep this forum nice and dont bash each others kits, i just need to know a safe tune for my vehicle so i dont blow my motor up. another option i was considering was driivng to kentucky to visit the zpi family and allow them to tune it there, but im from around the beach area in virginia and im wondering what the difference will make in the tuning from being that far away. thanks for taking the time to read my book.
#2
If you have stalling issues at idle, you injectors are either too large or too much fuel is being introduced from stock injectors. From what I do know, typical AFR for stock JDM Toyotas start from 15.5 down to 13.3 at WOT. The inj maps have to be re-tweaked based on a smaller numerical denominator at idling range (depends on which piggyback you're using though)
#3
Once the emanage goes to red does it go back to green once the engine recovers? Or does it begin to blink? If it goes back to green your're ok. If it stays red, then the emanage is throwing a code.
My car is tuned to run about an 11.8 or so at the boost level you're at. I run it with a few degrees of timing pulled back as well. Did ZPI pull your igition timing at all or are you still at 0 correction? That will make a big difference in what's safe and what isn't. If you're really nervous, tune it slightly richer than a 12.5 and you're ok. The 11.8 is good, but try to keep it more flat instead of moving too much more than that.
As for it being jumpy... Does the engine sound different when it happens? What are your A/F numbers like when it does that? Is it at WOT, partial throttle, or both?
It seems like it's not too bad, so I wouldn't be too nerveous. It's all about working out the bugs.
My car is tuned to run about an 11.8 or so at the boost level you're at. I run it with a few degrees of timing pulled back as well. Did ZPI pull your igition timing at all or are you still at 0 correction? That will make a big difference in what's safe and what isn't. If you're really nervous, tune it slightly richer than a 12.5 and you're ok. The 11.8 is good, but try to keep it more flat instead of moving too much more than that.
As for it being jumpy... Does the engine sound different when it happens? What are your A/F numbers like when it does that? Is it at WOT, partial throttle, or both?
It seems like it's not too bad, so I wouldn't be too nerveous. It's all about working out the bugs.
#5
I run RC550s in my tC with no issues. Mine has never turned red.
Are you using the anti-stall feature? If not, try calibrating that, you would need the support tool. If you have the support tool, you'll have the manual for it. In the manual it shows you the procedure for programming the anti-stall option which really helps out for a VTA BOV setup on a Maf car.
Are you using the anti-stall feature? If not, try calibrating that, you would need the support tool. If you have the support tool, you'll have the manual for it. In the manual it shows you the procedure for programming the anti-stall option which really helps out for a VTA BOV setup on a Maf car.
#6
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Originally Posted by Joe_Dezod
Once the emanage goes to red does it go back to green once the engine recovers? Or does it begin to blink? If it goes back to green your're ok. If it stays red, then the emanage is throwing a code.
My car is tuned to run about an 11.8 or so at the boost level you're at. I run it with a few degrees of timing pulled back as well. Did ZPI pull your igition timing at all or are you still at 0 correction? That will make a big difference in what's safe and what isn't. If you're really nervous, tune it slightly richer than a 12.5 and you're ok. The 11.8 is good, but try to keep it more flat instead of moving too much more than that.
As for it being jumpy... Does the engine sound different when it happens? What are your A/F numbers like when it does that? Is it at WOT, partial throttle, or both?
It seems like it's not too bad, so I wouldn't be too nerveous. It's all about working out the bugs.
My car is tuned to run about an 11.8 or so at the boost level you're at. I run it with a few degrees of timing pulled back as well. Did ZPI pull your igition timing at all or are you still at 0 correction? That will make a big difference in what's safe and what isn't. If you're really nervous, tune it slightly richer than a 12.5 and you're ok. The 11.8 is good, but try to keep it more flat instead of moving too much more than that.
As for it being jumpy... Does the engine sound different when it happens? What are your A/F numbers like when it does that? Is it at WOT, partial throttle, or both?
It seems like it's not too bad, so I wouldn't be too nerveous. It's all about working out the bugs.
#7
Is the kit tuned via throttle position or with the Map sensor that greddy offers as an upgrade? Email me your map of your emanage if you can, joe@dezod.com
#8
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Originally Posted by Joe_Dezod
I run RC550s in my tC with no issues. Mine has never turned red.
Are you using the anti-stall feature? If not, try calibrating that, you would need the support tool. If you have the support tool, you'll have the manual for it. In the manual it shows you the procedure for programming the anti-stall option which really helps out for a VTA BOV setup on a Maf car.
Are you using the anti-stall feature? If not, try calibrating that, you would need the support tool. If you have the support tool, you'll have the manual for it. In the manual it shows you the procedure for programming the anti-stall option which really helps out for a VTA BOV setup on a Maf car.
the guy at the tune shop dabbed in that area. any throttle with a load on it going more then say 5mph im usually pretty good. but say i have to edge my car up, like to a gate for th emilitary, man it barely stays running. quite annoying. im waiting on zen to give me the support tool and the driver for the cable. then im gonna send the map off to zpi and let them look at it. im not the typical tuner. once this car is tuned, the stage 1 is the last performance mod. i just like the bov and the way the kit looks. now ijust need to clean up under the hood, but it has to run right first.
#9
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Originally Posted by Joe_Dezod
Is the kit tuned via throttle position or with the Map sensor that greddy offers as an upgrade? Email me your map of your emanage if you can, joe@dezod.com
#10
It's 3AM here too and I'm heading to bed but...
When you have time...
Go to www.greddy.com and click on "Tech" on the left side of the site. Load the Emanage PDF. It teaches you how to read thr trouble code the emanage is giving you and will help narrow down what the issue may be. Good luck, I'll keep my eye on this thread.
When you have time...
Go to www.greddy.com and click on "Tech" on the left side of the site. Load the Emanage PDF. It teaches you how to read thr trouble code the emanage is giving you and will help narrow down what the issue may be. Good luck, I'll keep my eye on this thread.
#11
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its giving me code 11. i have the emanage pdf printed out. but that doesnt make sense since the wires are hooked up properly. i have verified 3 times. i hooked them up myself. i wouldnt be so confident but i have a huge background in electronics. its my job . so like i said it just kicks me the code when the car tries to stall. very odd.
#12
Code 11 and the red light mean the wiring is not correct. More importantly the MAF wiring. I am very confident this is where the part throttle driving issues are coming from.
Check the wiring and then give me a call.
Check the wiring and then give me a call.
#13
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soon as i get off work i will give you a call and we can figure this out. i can verify it was blinking green the whole time prior to the tune and the only time it faults out to blinking red is when the car attempts to stall. ill call later.
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