PTUNING: Project RedLine Time Attack tC (updated pics pg 16)
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Originally Posted by brett561tc
Originally Posted by Ptuningcom
MrC
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 455
From: NOVA
Originally Posted by Ptuningcom
Originally Posted by Resu
The progress so far looks good guys. Some quick questions:
1.What coating is that on the pipes?
2. In about the 12th or 13th picture down. Where you've got the VAC line running from the inlet of the turbo to the wastegate, what kind of connectors are you using there. Those look pretty cool and I haven't seen them on many builds? I noticed you had the same 90 degree elbow connectors on the vacuum block there.
Thanks!
1.What coating is that on the pipes?
2. In about the 12th or 13th picture down. Where you've got the VAC line running from the inlet of the turbo to the wastegate, what kind of connectors are you using there. Those look pretty cool and I haven't seen them on many builds? I noticed you had the same 90 degree elbow connectors on the vacuum block there.
Thanks!
The vacuum fitting connectors used on our tc is know as a "push to connect" fitting. It is used primarily on equipments that require routing of critical vacuum lines and pressure lines. The fittings we used are designed to be 100% leak-free, and easily to connect and disconnect. They are rated at 300psi at 200 degree F. Ever seen a rubber vacuum line for a wastegate pop off a cheap barb fitting on a high hp turbo car--can you say overboost and goodbye motor. The fittings aren't cheap but when you have a $10K+ motor in your car, you don't want the life line for your boost reference connected to $1 barb fitting.
The same company, SandBlast America also did all the powder coating and hi-temp ceramic coating on our Ptuning Turbo S2000 below:
MrC
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Here's a few pics of the racing oil cooler mounted on our intercooler. We will be running the oil cooler along with the dry sump oil system. We'll post some pics of the dry sump setup when it's completed.
Our custom racing radiator should be here in about 2 weeks. A lot of you had questions as to how we will fit a radiator with our turbo setup. You'll see how everything fits together.
MrC
Our custom racing radiator should be here in about 2 weeks. A lot of you had questions as to how we will fit a radiator with our turbo setup. You'll see how everything fits together.
MrC
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Originally Posted by Scott8
what size pipes are you running on the intake and intercooler pipes?
also, how are you running your oil drain line since the turbo is really low in the bay?
MrC
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Here's a few pictures of our custom racing radiator that we finally got in today. The radiator was built to our spec by the famous racing radiator builder Ron Davis Racing. The radiator is lower but wider than the factory radiator. The frontal surface area is actually larger than the factory unit. The core is almost 6 times the thickness of the factory unit.
Here's a few pics of the progress on our custom roll cage that will meet both NASA and SCCA guide lines. Although we only need to meet the lesser stringent guideline for NASA to compete in the Red Line Time Attack events.
Here's how you remove 30lbs from the door:
We'll take more pics once the roll cage is near completion.
MrC
Here's a few pics of the progress on our custom roll cage that will meet both NASA and SCCA guide lines. Although we only need to meet the lesser stringent guideline for NASA to compete in the Red Line Time Attack events.
Here's how you remove 30lbs from the door:
We'll take more pics once the roll cage is near completion.
MrC
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Originally Posted by Scoobasteve4132
LMAO @ the door pic... What are you guys doing for a roof?
The factory glass roof might look pimp on a street car, but on the track it's 80+ pounds of glass that can shatter in an accident and the extra weight is in the worse place possible--the highest point on the car.
MrC
x3, CF the whole car. isnt there a CF sunroof molf out there too?
CF roof, hood, fenders, side skirts, hatch and doors should be pretty nuts for weight reduction. and replace the glass with plexiglass
CF roof, hood, fenders, side skirts, hatch and doors should be pretty nuts for weight reduction. and replace the glass with plexiglass