Obviously, you want an engine management system. If you were to run untuned, I certainly wouldn't be running 6psi. Probably the most I'd even half-consider would be the smallest Tial spring offered, which is a 3.6psi spring. But again, I wouldn't do it.

Good luck with your project. I'm sure it'll give you the grin I get every time I press on the throttle.

 

why damage your motor a little bit so you can drive the car ? cause when you do get it tuned you wont be able to reverse the damage that has already been done. so you would not be getting the fullest out of your kit.

 

it doesnt matter if you run a 3 psi or a 20 psi spring.. the safe thing is to keep off boost, just easy on the throttle just keep the car running normally to a certain speed

 

ill just not install it till i get management and money for a tune

 

well that's good...I couldn't remember the name of the thread... and dont remember what psi he was running... but it was totally untuned and unmanaged. And it spelled disaster.

 

Here's a thought to toss out there in this thread...and all the boosted peeps can chime in on this.... I've seen that on the Toyota brand S/C setups...most simply had the stock ecu re-flashed for it.... If you're running a low boost setting like cburglb34 is looking to run....is it possible to add or re-map the stock ecu to handle that without having to buy a completely new emanagement unit?
Just curious on opinions or experience with that route.

 

just going to sell the kit i cant pay for everything

 

LOL.... now you see one of the reasons why I chose to build up on a N/A setup instead of going FI.... I'd like to...but in order to do it right...it's a lot of cash up front to do it....and with the way the economy is right now...I'd rather put that few grand into something a lot better in the long run than in my car.

 

Sell it and go nitrous. It is great for when you want a little boost now and then. 1/8 the price too.

 

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=258844

 

dont sell it man just keep it and finish it when you have the parts.

 

The safe answer is to get a piggyback and a tune. The not-as-safe answer is get a wideband AFR gauge, 440cc injectors and see how your AFR is at 4-6psi. As for detonation, your engine is designed to run on 87 octane so run 93 and let the knock sensor do it's job. ZPI, TRD and Treadstone know more about this than SL members chanting in unison to "get a tune or you'll blow your engine". JMO.

 

a guy here just recently blew his motor on 6 psi.. this rod made a whole on his block.. any psi of boost can destroy your car

 

wat size turbo

 

not sure.. i assume its the standard dezod turbo, it shouldnt matter though.. turbo size is not the biggest factor that cause the untuned motor to blow

 

T3/T04 Dezod spec'd 50trim 48 AR turbo

 

Agreed,

Turbos don't blow engines, boost does not blow engines (within reason ) Detonation destorys engines!

I have a 2AZ-FE that I ordered in from a junkyard here at the shop that had the knock sensor come loose from the block. It was a NA engine no boost. Cylinders 2 and 3 both destroyed as well as the head. All from detonation gone wild. Even a NA engine can destroy itself if let to happen

 

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...r=asc&&start=0

found the link. I was on it the whole time , my bad. Just keep the kit and throw money into it when you have it and just be patient with it.

 

ahh yes saw that link yesterday, and no i sold the kit already

 

FWIW, I'm running 5psi with 440cc injectors on a XB2 2AZ-FE w/o EM and AFRs are great, driveability is great, idle is great and . It's been on for 2 weeks now and there are absolutely no detonation problems with 93 pump. Not even the slightest 'ping' and no misfire codes, pending or active. To be a little safer, I installed colder ND copper plugs and a 170F thermostat. I'll be installing a 3psi activated, single-stage water/meth solenoid controlled injection system using a 150cc misting nozzle in the intake mani very soon.

WMI is a great way to prevent detonation without pulling timing or wasting fuel for intake charge/combustion chamber cooling.

OTOH, if you're looking for 300+whp, get good EM and a good tune.