SoFloTC destroyed manifold FIXED lol.
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,156
From: Orlando, FL
Originally Posted by SoFloTC
soo i already got the mani rewelded... put a stock gasket on and guess what, NO MORE gasket leak... :O the copper one started leaking after 1 night of street tuning and the stock one is holding up, putting the spring bolts in 2morrow, also we found a massive vacuum leak lmao.. a hose that was going to nothing.. i think i was using it for the black box but forgot to take it off when i got the ultimate and tossed the blue, fixing the leak and vacuum leak all the sudden my car hit 20 lbs we were like wtf lol, turned it down to 18, still on ____ty stock spark plugs :X and their fouled as flip.. putting in step 1's 2morrow aswell :D ya this really wasnt such a big deal i think i just reacted accordingly because this car never seems to go the way we want.
tuning a turbo car on stock spark plugs
tuning a car with a major vacuum leak
installing your downpipe with no gasket...
seems like all your problems are comming from poor instalation!
FYI the trd supercharger kit comes with 1 steps for 7psi. and when bumping up to the 9psi they recemond going to 2 step..
Would it be possible to post up your greddy map just so i could see it?
You should stop driving the car.. Fix everything correctly and then tune it..
non trying to be a e-thug or be on ur case.. Just looking out for you, so you not posting another major failure thread!
no luiggi's maps are locked i cant open it, the vacuum leak was my fault i put the ultimate in and left the hose to the blackbox in there, funny thing is i dont think ive had a donut gasket for a while either, as for the stock spark plugs its cause we had to wait for the new ones to come in. i just wanted to be able to drive around until they did, and the car runs great with fouled upgraded stock plugs lol
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Orlando, FL
Originally Posted by SoFloTC
no luiggi's maps are locked i cant open it, the vacuum leak was my fault i put the ultimate in and left the hose to the blackbox in there, funny thing is i dont think ive had a donut gasket for a while either, as for the stock spark plugs its cause we had to wait for the new ones to come in. i just wanted to be able to drive around until they did, and the car runs great with fouled upgraded stock plugs lol
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KAD
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,936
From: Western NY
Originally Posted by BlackKnight
This is not boost related but relates to cracks on manifolds, I had a Alphawerks header on my car when I was N/A. The support tabs that bolt the bottom of the header to the block support was broke when I got it so I took it to a welder and had them re weld these tabs back on. After racing my car at the track I guess it was too much strain on the tabs and the welds broke causing the header to twist (no spring bolts or flex pipe used) and tear a massive hole in the bottom of the collector. I am having the shop building my setup make a custom bracket for everything using these support brackets on the block or using the bolt holes on the block.
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From: WORLD WIDE Flossin
Originally Posted by SoFloTC
i asked paul @ dezod about the flex joint, he said just using the spring bolts will be fine and not to waste my time getting the flex joint. Althought the flex join + spring bolts would probably be the safest possible thing.
also what are you thinking tuning on stock plugs chad!!!! for the amount of boost ur running it would be ideal to run a step colder.. possibly even 2 step colder.. why isnt luigi recomending this to you and fixing these things before you get to tuning... u guys are wasting time.
i have the step colder.. we were waiting for them, but we found out my BOV was clogged and we just found that stupid vacuum leak that i left hanging around.. he doesnt wanna foul the new plugs so hes just tuning it so its driveable to say the least but today were gonna finish the tune and use some timing for the real power :o.. i love shifting into 3rd at 60 mph though 
i have the step colder.. we were waiting for them, but we found out my BOV was clogged and we just found that stupid vacuum leak that i left hanging around.. he doesnt wanna foul the new plugs so hes just tuning it so its driveable to say the least but today were gonna finish the tune and use some timing for the real power :o.. i love shifting into 3rd at 60 mph though
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From: Staten Island, NYC
Originally Posted by itlstl13
Originally Posted by SoFloTC
um ok? sweet my moms paying for the rewelding of a manifold.. ive already put everything in my life into this car sorry i dont have any money anymore .. wtf?
Why cant anyone take a friendly joke anymore?
Shiit this board is so uptight on everything god dammit
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From: Buffalo, NY
I was off yesterday, Reverend Horton Heat concert FTW. I just read through some of this. A few thoughts
1. I'm not sure many people here understand what Sch 40 piping is and just how thick it is. Here is a slight break down.
In the size of 1.5" which is what we use for our turbo manifolds.
Exhaust tubing is .065" thick, also known as 16 guage when talking about tubing, in piping sizes it would be Sch 5.
Sch 10 piping is .109" thick. In tubing sizes this would be known as 12 gauge
Sch 40 piping is .145" thick. In tubing sizes this would be between 10 and 9 gauge. For reference 10 gauge is .140" thick.
So as you can see our manifolds are made from the beefiest material that is available in the proper diameter.
Physics > any manifold. I'm sure if someone here was a physics major they could calculate the load at the flange in psi based on a 14ft long lever acting on that spot (the exhaust on a tc is about 14ft or so.)
However it really doesn't matter. I'm glad you got your manifold fixed and everyone here could learn a lesson from your misfortune. Hopefully through your experience you can save others headaches down the road.
As for penetration on the welds. We have a fully certified welder who has had to have his welds X rayed weld our manifolds. I'm gonna go with they are done pretty well.
2. Flex joints are your friends. Whether in the exhaust or in the form a ball and socket like stock. They allow for the engine to pivot with out tearing the exhaust. With out a point of flex to allow the engine to move separate from the exhaust you get what we got here.
Equal Length tubular manifolds are more prone to cracking, there are more welds and they are gnerally heavier. Even when braced properly. Stainless steel expands at a rate 50 times greater than mild steel. The best choice for any manifold is 321 Stainless steel but that is expensive. Very expensive. Between heating, cooling, expansion, contraction, vibrations and a rocking engine you will see some of these manifolds crack over time. It's just the nature of the beast. This is also why you will never see a tubular turbo manifold on an OEM turbo car. Not only are they more expensive to make but they are more prone to failure which would increase warranty claims.
We will be developing an Equal length manifold and turbo kit soon. However we also have years of turbo kit building experience. So needless to say the bracing will be engineered such that these forces have a minimal effect on the product.
I wish everyone luck with their turbo kits, no matter who made it, and tell everyone who runs into problems to keep trucking. Trial and error is part of owning a performance car and in the end every experience is a good experience because you learned something.
1. I'm not sure many people here understand what Sch 40 piping is and just how thick it is. Here is a slight break down.
In the size of 1.5" which is what we use for our turbo manifolds.
Exhaust tubing is .065" thick, also known as 16 guage when talking about tubing, in piping sizes it would be Sch 5.
Sch 10 piping is .109" thick. In tubing sizes this would be known as 12 gauge
Sch 40 piping is .145" thick. In tubing sizes this would be between 10 and 9 gauge. For reference 10 gauge is .140" thick.
So as you can see our manifolds are made from the beefiest material that is available in the proper diameter.
Physics > any manifold. I'm sure if someone here was a physics major they could calculate the load at the flange in psi based on a 14ft long lever acting on that spot (the exhaust on a tc is about 14ft or so.)
However it really doesn't matter. I'm glad you got your manifold fixed and everyone here could learn a lesson from your misfortune. Hopefully through your experience you can save others headaches down the road.
As for penetration on the welds. We have a fully certified welder who has had to have his welds X rayed weld our manifolds. I'm gonna go with they are done pretty well.
2. Flex joints are your friends. Whether in the exhaust or in the form a ball and socket like stock. They allow for the engine to pivot with out tearing the exhaust. With out a point of flex to allow the engine to move separate from the exhaust you get what we got here.
Equal Length tubular manifolds are more prone to cracking, there are more welds and they are gnerally heavier. Even when braced properly. Stainless steel expands at a rate 50 times greater than mild steel. The best choice for any manifold is 321 Stainless steel but that is expensive. Very expensive. Between heating, cooling, expansion, contraction, vibrations and a rocking engine you will see some of these manifolds crack over time. It's just the nature of the beast. This is also why you will never see a tubular turbo manifold on an OEM turbo car. Not only are they more expensive to make but they are more prone to failure which would increase warranty claims.
We will be developing an Equal length manifold and turbo kit soon. However we also have years of turbo kit building experience. So needless to say the bracing will be engineered such that these forces have a minimal effect on the product.
I wish everyone luck with their turbo kits, no matter who made it, and tell everyone who runs into problems to keep trucking. Trial and error is part of owning a performance car and in the end every experience is a good experience because you learned something.
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From: South Florida
Boy should I even post anything in this thread? I don't want Chad to take what I say the wrong way and hurt his feelings. 
Elevation - I totally know what you're thinking and I agree with you. I've given my 2 cents on that before...
Paul - you are absolutely right about extra stress due to the lack of spring bolts. If no spring bolts then flex piping is needed. There's just way too much force exerted not to have any cushion.
Anyhow.. I'm wondering how there's such an excellent DD tune when there's a vacuum leak involved, an exhaust leak, and stock plugs..
Also - I found it funny that the original reason why he couldn't get more than 15psi was because of the wastegate spring.. and NOT the vac leak or exhaust leak... lolz.
Elevation - I totally know what you're thinking and I agree with you. I've given my 2 cents on that before...
Paul - you are absolutely right about extra stress due to the lack of spring bolts. If no spring bolts then flex piping is needed. There's just way too much force exerted not to have any cushion.
Anyhow.. I'm wondering how there's such an excellent DD tune when there's a vacuum leak involved, an exhaust leak, and stock plugs..
Also - I found it funny that the original reason why he couldn't get more than 15psi was because of the wastegate spring.. and NOT the vac leak or exhaust leak... lolz.
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,156
From: Orlando, FL
Originally Posted by B_Real45
Boy should I even post anything in this thread? I don't want Chad to take what I say the wrong way and hurt his feelings.
Elevation - I totally know what you're thinking and I agree with you. I've given my 2 cents on that before...
Paul - you are absolutely right about extra stress due to the lack of spring bolts. If no spring bolts then flex piping is needed. There's just way too much force exerted not to have any cushion.
Anyhow.. I'm wondering how there's such an excellent DD tune when there's a vacuum leak involved, an exhaust leak, and stock plugs..
Also - I found it funny that the original reason why he couldn't get more than 15psi was because of the wastegate spring.. and NOT the vac leak or exhaust leak... lolz.
Elevation - I totally know what you're thinking and I agree with you. I've given my 2 cents on that before...
Paul - you are absolutely right about extra stress due to the lack of spring bolts. If no spring bolts then flex piping is needed. There's just way too much force exerted not to have any cushion.
Anyhow.. I'm wondering how there's such an excellent DD tune when there's a vacuum leak involved, an exhaust leak, and stock plugs..
Also - I found it funny that the original reason why he couldn't get more than 15psi was because of the wastegate spring.. and NOT the vac leak or exhaust leak... lolz.
AMEN
