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Scion tC 1G Forced Induction Turbo and supercharger applications...

Some more nub turbo questions.

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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 02:22 AM
  #1  
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Default Some more nub turbo questions.

First:
I've heard that I should break my car in before boosting, I only have 984 miles on it now, if this is true, when is a safe time (mileage wise) to turbo it.

Second:
I was going to go ahead and do the stage 4 clutch and light weight (9lb) flywheel at the same time as doing a turbo, but my dad (who is a mechanic and has been a mechanic for 30 years now) said I don't need to do it tight away, but it does need to be done eventually because of the torque increase.

Lastly (for now I think):
If I do get the clutch and flywheel later will I have to re tune?

Thanks guys.
Old Jul 3, 2007 | 03:21 AM
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1000 miles should be enough to break a motor in i guess its just personal choice of when you think its safe to add the turbo.and if you do get the clutch flywheel later on down the road you wont need to retune your car.
Old Jul 3, 2007 | 03:22 AM
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Thanks a lot man!
Old Jul 3, 2007 | 03:23 AM
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np,what turbo kit you looking to get?
Old Jul 3, 2007 | 03:26 AM
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Turbo Toyotas.
Old Jul 3, 2007 | 03:27 AM
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nice, g/l with it, all ive heard about that company is good things.
Old Jul 3, 2007 | 03:29 AM
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Yeah same here, if everything goes right with the loan and shiz, I'll be boosted pretty soon.
Old Jul 3, 2007 | 04:00 AM
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after a proper break-in period, it should be fine to turbo your car. since you are around the 1k mark, you should be fine. Your dad pretty much got it nailed on the nose about your clutch. Since your car is pretty new, a new clutch and flywheel can wait a little while or until you start experiencing clutch slippage with your oem clutch. since your dad is a mechanic, he can pretty much do the install for you if you should run into any problems with the clutch. a re-tune with the new clutch and flywheel shouldn't be necessary. Although your motor will rev faster, im pretty sure that the lightweight flywheel shouldn't mess with your valve timing(retard or advace your timing) or your A/F ratios(leaner or richer).
Old Jul 3, 2007 | 04:02 AM
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Sweet, thanks for the info guys, I got the info I was hoping for (NOT having to re tune)
Old Jul 3, 2007 | 05:38 AM
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if this is your daily driver, i don't know if you need a stage 4 clutch......drive one and see how heavy it is.....would not recommend as a daily driver.....an act stage 1 could hold 280 hp comfortably......
Old Jul 3, 2007 | 12:02 PM
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Yeah stage 4's are a butt in stop and go traffic. They grab hardcore. I liked my stage 3 so much better!
Old Jul 3, 2007 | 11:16 PM
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Tahnks foir that guys, I figured to jsut go witht he Stage 4 since the prices between all stages are so close anyways, but I suppose I'll just go with stage 2?
Old Jul 3, 2007 | 11:48 PM
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Well, the prices are close, but a stage 4 is a puck style while the stage 3 is a disc style. The puck style grab like a crack ***** clutching a sack a rocks, so it's great for the track and not so great on the street.
Old Jul 4, 2007 | 12:28 AM
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so what would you suggest for daily driver and occasional track appearances?
Old Jul 4, 2007 | 12:34 AM
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stage 4 is too much. you should go with like a 2200ACT or something close to that. the only time you need something like that is if you have built your motor and are running say 18lbs or more... they tend to sheer and are not worth the $ in the long run. I have used a 2300ACT and it was no longer a pleasurable drive. I would only recommend a "stage 4" for mostly track use and a good fri night or 2
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