Some more nub turbo questions.
First:
I've heard that I should break my car in before boosting, I only have 984 miles on it now, if this is true, when is a safe time (mileage wise) to turbo it.
Second:
I was going to go ahead and do the stage 4 clutch and light weight (9lb) flywheel at the same time as doing a turbo, but my dad (who is a mechanic and has been a mechanic for 30 years now) said I don't need to do it tight away, but it does need to be done eventually because of the torque increase.
Lastly (for now I think):
If I do get the clutch and flywheel later will I have to re tune?
Thanks guys.
I've heard that I should break my car in before boosting, I only have 984 miles on it now, if this is true, when is a safe time (mileage wise) to turbo it.
Second:
I was going to go ahead and do the stage 4 clutch and light weight (9lb) flywheel at the same time as doing a turbo, but my dad (who is a mechanic and has been a mechanic for 30 years now) said I don't need to do it tight away, but it does need to be done eventually because of the torque increase.
Lastly (for now I think):
If I do get the clutch and flywheel later will I have to re tune?
Thanks guys.
1000 miles should be enough to break a motor in i guess its just personal choice of when you think its safe to add the turbo.and if you do get the clutch flywheel later on down the road you wont need to retune your car.
after a proper break-in period, it should be fine to turbo your car. since you are around the 1k mark, you should be fine. Your dad pretty much got it nailed on the nose about your clutch. Since your car is pretty new, a new clutch and flywheel can wait a little while or until you start experiencing clutch slippage with your oem clutch. since your dad is a mechanic, he can pretty much do the install for you if you should run into any problems with the clutch. a re-tune with the new clutch and flywheel shouldn't be necessary. Although your motor will rev faster, im pretty sure that the lightweight flywheel shouldn't mess with your valve timing(retard or advace your timing) or your A/F ratios(leaner or richer).
if this is your daily driver, i don't know if you need a stage 4 clutch......drive one and see how heavy it is.....would not recommend as a daily driver.....an act stage 1 could hold 280 hp comfortably......
Well, the prices are close, but a stage 4 is a puck style while the stage 3 is a disc style. The puck style grab like a crack ***** clutching a sack a rocks, so it's great for the track and not so great on the street.
stage 4 is too much. you should go with like a 2200ACT or something close to that. the only time you need something like that is if you have built your motor and are running say 18lbs or more... they tend to sheer and are not worth the $ in the long run. I have used a 2300ACT and it was no longer a pleasurable drive. I would only recommend a "stage 4" for mostly track use and a good fri night or 2
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Luisfc1972
Scion tC 1G Wheel & Tire
10
Oct 23, 2015 05:49 AM
mischman
PPC: Exterior / Styling
2
Sep 15, 2015 03:38 PM







