if its replaced under warrenty then TRD is gonna keep the broken one, you wont get to keep it.

 

hmm, weird. the mechanic, service writer, and manager told me i'd get to keep the crappy one. i asked them if i'd get to keep it because i read here that trd asks the dealer to ship the old supercharger to them. i know all three of them but i doubt it's a "hook up" thing because that would have nothing to do with them and all trd. we'll see, i guess.

either way, i dont really care. i honestly just dont want to hear that stupid cricket noise anymore. lol.

 

well if you get to keep it then lucky!
but ive never heard of TRD letting you keep a crapped kit thats been replaced under warrenty

 

neither have i. lol. i wont get my hopes up.

 

just got mine back from the dealership. i had an unusual rattling and my check engine light.

all said and done my idler pullies and the shock had to be replaced and theres an ECU "update" for the TRD reflashes.

 

ECU update? What is this? Should all sc owners get it?

 

i dunno. i had been having them look over it the passed couple weeks.
i had a catalytic failure CEL show up last week after they had put on new idler pullies they cleared it cause it may have just been it not cycling up correctly. i still had a rattle and the CEL returned yesterday.
they kept the car overnight to hear the rattle, it only ever did when it was a cold start.

got it back today and they had replaced the belt tensioner shock and sometime in the process of getting the CEL handled they saw that TRD had an updated ECU calibration so they recalibrated the ecu to this new one.

i hardly tap the gas and she's off like nothin compared to before. but this could either just be from me being used to driving it with a weak tensioner or just the new ECU flash or both combined, but there is definately a big difference i notice now

 

I need to get my supercharger rebuilt (new bearings and seals). I started getting a slight squeal from the pulley side. I figure that while I'm at it, why not upgrade the headunit from the V5 f-trim to the V5 g-trim, and get the polished version. I just need to know if our superchargers a clockwise or counter clockwise setup.

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...s+Supercharger

 

guessing from the belts and not really knowing specifics offhand, clockwise?
the shaft from the pulley spins counter-clockwise and that goes to the diagonal cut gears to the impeller rotating it clockwise?

and is it me or does it seem cheaper to buy a whole new kit (for 2005-2006 tCs) and then rebuild the old one with the other components getting beefed

 

how much can you get those kits for? you can get all the seals and bearings from www.superchargerrebuilds.com for like $240.

 

The seals are only a few bucks at most, and the bearings are under $10 each. I've heard people get the bearings and seal for well under $50, so don't know where the other $190+ is going to.

 

Well, found the idler pulley covered in rust, so hoping it's only that causing the noise.

I'm still going to get the bearings and seal to rebuild the supercharger. Anyone know for sure if we have a clockwise or a counter clockwise supercharger setup?

 

Hey Scott, check out the blower and youll see the fan moving I think that should determine counter clock wise or clock wise.

 

Hey, my idler pullies and the shock right there were faulty as well, it made a really horrible rattleing and vibrations.

they replaced all that and then found that ECU update and all seems well now.

 

Is your ECU update different from the original update that they perform at installation ?

 

yea thats what they say. and on the papers.

i was getting a CEL and i guess when they were checking things they found that there was a new ECU update available from TRD.

 

Is any one here able to describe the proper sequence in removing the bracket housing that holds the 2 bearings to the rotating shaft at the pulley end??

I tried to remove from the top, no go. I tried using a mallet to hit the underside of the housing bracket (upwards motion) and it did move a little. Its difficult as hell to remove homies I was a fraid to use a hydraulic press as I may crack the aluminium housing...

How should the bracket be extracted? (bracket housing facing you). I've read through this thread but there's no instructions on removal, just post-removal pics.

I also had a problem removing the centre shaft housing (hollow tube), the coupler end has an ARP bolt but in order to remove it, I needed to insert the keylock + pulley to get some kinda grip but its tight as hell.

I'm getting a little flustered since I'm helping my friend change out the weaker bearings before installatiion is done

Any help would be helpful.

Could Garage1217 kindly give his input? I'll be most grateful.

 

i'm not sure how great $50 bearings are at 6,000-10,000rpms.

 

better then the ones TRD put in there, lol

 

agreed.