Damn bro, sorry about your troubles. I had similar issues when un-installing my turbo. I ended up frying my "Body ECU". That is what it was called on the work order. Ask the dealership to take a look at that. I bet you that is what happened. Apparently its a touchy little part. But yea, you should expect problems, but I know first hand how frustrating it is. If you ever have questions, i'd be glad to help and share my experiences with boosting the tC.

 

yeah man sorry to hear. you'll get er done though!!

 

dave, there was a waiver but it was in terms of pricing (the quote they gave me) and user-related problems... like racing the car on a bad fuel map and blaming resulting damages on the shop. if they made errors in the install and i can somehow prove it, you can bet i'm going to do everything in my power to get things done right and/or get a refund. they already have so-so PR in the jacksonville scene, so the last thing they need is my big mouth telling everyone i know that they SUCK B@LLS. and believe me i would make it my mission to make sure everyone knew what happened.

 

thanks man i really appreciate it... do you know how the body ECU got fried? how much did it cost to be replaced?

 

but that dealership move will cost you a lot though, they will kill you with labor.. if you can find an alternative that would be good, but cant blame you its just an act of desperation.. i cant imagine my car not starting even on stock ecu

 

dude try junkyards for ecu, or i remembered someone here selling ecu for about 80bucks or so dont know if its still there though

 

i honestly dont think i would have brought it to a dealership. but you did what you could. and i would definatly try to put the blame on the shop because from what it sounds like its an obvious install error, and from them cutting and splicing wires... where did the wires go, idk if you posted it but i forgot already

 

I was removing my boost gauge and just cut some wires. Stupid me apparently fried the Body ECU somehow. Its not the main ecu the car uses though. Its for all things electrical. When the key is in the "ON" position, do your dash lights come on and does your Needle to the intro jump thing? That and obviously the car won't even crank over. It cost me about $500 to fix. At that point, I wasn't worried about price and just wanted my car back! But since you know the dealership well, maybe they will cut you a break on the labor. But I wouldn't be surprised if thats your issue. You said the shop cut some wires and spliced them back up. THat makes me think its the Body ECU problem that I had.

 

dude, that sux. thing is, you would have had the same issues no matter what turbo kit you got cause of that shop.
sounds to me like a fried ECU, but he dealership should have been able to figure that out alraedy.

damn, hope all goes well for you.

 

holy crap
i didnt notice you had all these issues until now
so whats the status

 

my car still turns over and the accessories all turn on when the key is in the ON position... the car just won't start. that's why i'm swearing it's something with the ignition. fuel is dumping like a ****... the smell is very pronounced. it's just like there's either no spark or the timing's off, but i'm leaning towards no spark since the stock ECU should at least be able to get the timing right enough to start it (and did at first). i dunno what, if any, wires the shop allegedly cut and spliced... the toyota service rep just said they found some of it. i haven't seen what they were talking about.. i had to leave the dealership and go to class. i just have a bad feeling that it's going to turn into a finger-pointing match.. you know? the dealership will blame it on the install and the performance shop will just say that the dealership is only blaming them because toyota dealerships aren't familiar with installing turbos. meantime i'll end up buying an STi (i wish). in all seriousness... it doesn't seem that complicated. we tried to start the car. it threw 8 codes (2 for each ignition coil). the end. so on one hand, i don't think i need all the stock stuff to be reinstalled to determine whether or not there's a problem with my ignition. on the other hand, i don't think that dealership will even try to touch my car once the special service rep tells them that they can't b/c of the turbo. if that's the case, i don't know what else i can do because i really don't want the people at the performance shop messing with my car more than they already have. most of the install was good, but the parts that weren't... well... apparently REALLY weren't.

 

have you checked the spark plugs? :shrugs:

 

i've thrown out ideas to everyone but i feel like people don't pay attention b/c i'm part of the tuner crowd who evidently think they know everything. here are scenarios i've suggested to no acknowledgment:

1. bad spark plugs (whether it be the install or the actual plugs)
2. backwards MAF sensor
3. fried ignition coils
4. problem with the injector install (somehow causing it to dump too much fuel no matter what)

whenever i suggest something, people shrug it off. all the guys at the performance shop kept saying was that i needed to take it to a tuner and get it professionally tuned. i repeatedly told them that my map (from olahalo) was good enough, especially to start the car. one of the service guys at the dealership tried to tell me i should have gone the TRD supercharger route. i told him i'd rather have 300+whp car that doesn't start than a 200bhp car that needs a new supercharger every 4 months b/c of a bad design. he said he didn't know much about the TRD charger. i told myself in my head that i wasn't the least bit surprised. i feel like i'm surrounded by idiots. i need to move to vegas haha

 

dude check them yourself all of that stuff you can check, you dont have to be a mechanic to do so either. go to autozone, get yuourself a rachet (if yuou dont have one already) a long extension (if yuou dont have one already) and a spark plug socket (again, if you dont have one already) take the plugs out, if they are black on the tip or have ____t caked on they are bad, check the MAF sensor by unscrewing the 2 screws that it holds on to. check the coils the same time you check the plugs, and you can take a look behind the engine and peek at the injectors, check to see if theres any leaks or if the o-rings where installed correctly or if there are any at all. then check to see if they connected them correctly.

do it yourself man, then when you find out whats wrong with it, tell both the shop and teh dealership to **** off and drive away

 

wait. backwards maf?? does your intake pipe have the maf flange wleded on backwards? do the wired coming off the sesor face the driver or the front of the car?

 

^ yea, i thought about that too after i made my post but was too lazy to edit.

but still teh problems hes having to me doesnt seem like a backwards maf sensor

 

the plugs are brand new; they should be okay. the tech at the performance shop re-checked the MAF last week and said it was on right for whatever that's worth (as far as looks it appears to be on the right way.. no strange fitment or anything). there were no injector fuel leaks. as for everything else, i will check those myself depending on what the dealership tells me tomorrow

 

check the plugs again, if its just dumping gas in w/o igniting then it has to be along the lines of the plugs.

 

its probably something small and stupid something commonly over looked

 

you might need to replave your igniton?? maybe? its sounding like that may be the prob to me. along with the spark plugs like what dave said.