Well, I typed it in the search and didn't find anything. I'm pretty sure I looked for the same thing a long time ago but never started a thread. So I'll do it this time. What is the highest RMS the 11kv.2 can go? It says 300/600 WRMS on the site and when I crank my RF P325 to 385 RMS it starts to distort. I'm hoping its the amp giving up and not the sub because I want to upgrade my amp to say 650RMS and drop it back to 600RMS. Would the 11kv.2 handle that?

 

here ya go



if you know what you're doing you'll be ok but be very careful

 

I've seen that plenty o' times. I just wasn't sure it was RMS or even reliable. I was hoping some people had the 11kv and have actually tried it :/ I don't want to buy an amp and have it distort at ~400W on me.. (Of course, then I would buy a Fi Q but I'm trying to save money here :p)

 

it was put out by eD so uhh... i think thats reliable lol

 

:S

So you think I can just drop in a 650RMS Amp and I'll be good to go, on 4 gauge and all? Is 385 to 600-650 even noticeable?

 

well it'll change how much the speaker moves, you need to be careful, they have power rating for a reason

 

I know it'll move more, that's obvious. But will it be much louder or just a bit louder? I figure the site says 300/600 RMS for the 11kv.2 so I'm going to crank it to 600RMS and if it pops I'll write a review.

 

it'll be hard to notice, maybe a 2-3 db increase

 

Yes, if you just figure for the power increase. Factoring for the probable compression (sub's output won't be linear), it's more likely to be 1dB or less.

 

when your up in the 600 range for that sub you have to make sure it's a clean signal that's not clipped. eD has a nice video of what chipping is. Chipping kills speakers. To check for how clean your signal is you have to get and o-scope.

hopefully i make sence
Yang

 

Clipping*, not chipping.

 

So basically not worth it. How about going from 385W with the 11kv.2 to 750-900W with a Fi Q, would that be noticeable?

Right now I have both amps (fronts+sub) set for a combined total of 685W going to a distro block with 4 gauge. If I jump up to 1050 -1200W combined total would I need to change anything?

 

^ I'm sure you know by now that each time you double the power, in theory you should get a 3dB increase in output from your sub. However, after a certain amount of power is applied (depends on the specific sub's capabilities), the sub's output won't remain linear, you won't get 3 more dB by doubling the power at that point, but something less. You could check with Chris (mandos) or someone else that works for eD, but I'd bet your 11kv.2's output only remains linear up to the 300-400 watt range, such that more power would be a waste. If you want more bass, either consider a different sub, or adding another 11kv.2.

 

Yeah I remember that double power + 3dB thing from somewhere a long time ago. That's why I have abandoned the 11kv.2 (because of its limitations) and have started thinking about a Fi Q. I'm just waiting for someone to give me some advice on how I should go about wiring it. Should I keep my 4 gauge routed to a distro block and have almost 1200W pump through it or go 0 gauge?

 

Not even a question about going from the eD to the Q. The Q over eD everyday, just comes down to if you want to shell out the extra money, which imo, would be well worth it.