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Big 3 upgrade? New Alternator? What to do...

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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 08:28 PM
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Default Big 3 upgrade? New Alternator? What to do...

I installed my new Fi Q a couple days ago, the remote wire hit a piece of metal where it was stripped, and blew the alternator. long story summed up here:

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...486&highlight=

Now here is my question(s):

1. The mechanic at pepboys recommended I get a capacitor for my system to prevent my alternator from blowing again... is that true? or are capacitors useless?

2. If i do the the "big 3" upgrade, will that prevent my alternator from blowing, and provide enough power for my system? (900 watts @ 1 ohm)

3. Since my alternator is blown, I have to go to scion to get it replaced... Would i need a better alternator or should i just stick with the stock one for now?

kinda confused what to do cause i don't want this to happen again, and ive read a lot online that capacitors are useless....
Old Apr 19, 2009 | 09:34 PM
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1. a capacitor is there to stabilize the current to the system. since the remote wire is not connected to the capacitor, the battery or alternator would be affected before the capacitor. so the answeris no, it will not prevent the alternator from blowing.

2. No the big three will not prevent your amp from blowing. It is more important to run the correct size wire to the amp. If you notice lights dimming, then the big three upgrade might be a good idea.

3. The stock alternator should be just fine. Check a local junk yard or trdsparks before, as both of those will be cheaper than your local dealer.

To prevent this from happening again, ALWAYS disconnect your negative termanal when touching anything related to the electrical system.
Old Apr 19, 2009 | 11:25 PM
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I mentioned a capacitor to a few of my friends that are into the premium car stereo and stuff like that, and they laughed in my face. lol

Big 3 upgrade FTW.
Old Apr 20, 2009 | 12:53 AM
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Alright well i'll get a stock alternator put back in tomorrow, then put in a yellow top optima battery, and do the "big 3" as soon as i get my car back.

thanks for all your help
Old Apr 20, 2009 | 01:01 AM
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Just run the correct wire size for your components and the stock electrical system will do fine.
I have 3000 watts and my car is fine. No light dimming issues.
Old Apr 20, 2009 | 06:08 PM
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If you do decide you want a HO alternator, I can get you one for a pretty reasonable price for a TC. A buddy of mine is a dealer for a very good alternator company which I won't say publically. PM me if you are interested bud.
Old Apr 20, 2009 | 09:41 PM
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Make sure all your wire sizes are correct. At least 4 gauge power/ground wires. As well as component wiring. Wires are sometimes the main issues haha.
Old Apr 20, 2009 | 09:51 PM
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Who did the install? Why is the remote (turn on?) line big enough to carry that much current? Something is not right at all. Capacitors are just band-aids. Do research on batteries before just dropping money on something you heard was go. Although my friend has a yellow top and it has served him well. You will learn a lot more by doing some research instead of just throwing money at something. GL
Old Apr 20, 2009 | 11:23 PM
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You definitely did something wrong. I that same sub on a pdx-1.1000 and 3-way components on an pdx-4.150 and i don't have any problems. a big three upgrade will help with lights dimming and that sort of stuff. you need to make sure that all your wires are fused properly. read this thread for help Click
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 02:04 AM
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well i took it to scion, and they thought i needed a new alternator, which they knew was wierd cause these alternator never die. So they looked more into my car and apparently i misplaced one of the fuses on the interior fuse box, which caused all those problems...

My power wire is only 8 gauge, and the others are a little torn up, so i am going to replace the amp kit with a 4 gauge or bigger this summer when i upgrade to the sundown audio SAE1200d, and my custom subwoofer box.

tcb00b, the remote wire is only like 16 gauge, and it was the one from when i got the car and had the bazooka subwoofer in there so in time there is an area that stripped and shorted on a piece of metal...

I did the whole amp install, but that has nothin to do with the problems that arose, as i explained earlier.

So is the big 3 completely useless to me if i'm only running 1200watts?

Also, sound deadening... good idea?
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by AngHellicTc
well i took it to scion, and they thought i needed a new alternator, which they knew was wierd cause these alternator never die. So they looked more into my car and apparently i misplaced one of the fuses on the interior fuse box, which caused all those problems...

My power wire is only 8 gauge, and the others are a little torn up, so i am going to replace the amp kit with a 4 gauge or bigger this summer when i upgrade to the sundown audio SAE1200d, and my custom subwoofer box.

tcb00b, the remote wire is only like 16 gauge, and it was the one from when i got the car and had the bazooka subwoofer in there so in time there is an area that stripped and shorted on a piece of metal...

I did the whole amp install, but that has nothin to do with the problems that arose, as i explained earlier.

So is the big 3 completely useless to me if i'm only running 1200watts?

Also, sound deadening... good idea?
Probably not really needed for 1200. I did it just to be sure but it's better to see how it goes and add it if needed. For sound dampner I've been more impressed with the acoustic foam more than the mat types but it depends where you use it, how much, your driving etc. I do lots of highway driving and the acoustic foam helps with higher frequencies like wind noise. In any case you can't go wrong with the stuff from Second Skin Audio.
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 03:37 AM
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REally at that amount of power not need upgraded alternator,should not need a cap,some love them others have no real use for them ever.......ever.

4guage power wire is about topped out at 20feet and 1000w,more than 20 feet and 1000w go for 0/1 please,you will be amazed how much your problems will go away using the right size wires.....also currant travels on the outside surface of wire,so the more strands in the wire the more surface the currant has to travel on,easier it is for it to travel point A to B the less heat you build,the less heat the better off youare.

Sound deadening.......I have to strongly say.......go buy it,buy it now,you will never be happier........really it makes the stereo sound a lot better,mid bass is better,bass is better highs are cleaner,the car drives a lot quieter......worth every penny.

Also be sure to tune your amp.........this is a must for good sound,deep lows,clean mids and highs and loud without ever blowing up the subs or amps.....if you do not know how to tune an amp there are DIYs,I have even written up a few on here before,it makes a stereo night and day and you learn how to make it work together in the car you have.
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 03:43 PM
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Since you did the install I ask why wouldn't you take another 5 seconds and wrap the exposed wire with electrical tape? And make sure that it couldn't touch metal? And your install did cause the problems because you ran the remote line to the amp and didn't take proper steps to protect it from shorting. Which from reading the other post, started all of this.
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