Please, before anything else, please do not be condescending. I'm doing the best I can. I'm NOT a mechanic, but I can follow instructions to a point. I have an original issue that I will post after I get this issue fixed. (or IF) But during the time trying to fix my issue I had a major catastrophe!

I was working on cooling fan issues (after mechanic ripped me off) and had the fuse box open (cover off). While inside searching more info on the computer a torrential downpour came. Fuse box was soaked before I could close the hood. I had to wait a few hours to get SOME info and wait for the lightening to stop. But, I removed the battery and took out all the fuses I could get out (lost the fuse puller in the engine first 2 mins). The expensive ones (IE relays etc). Over the last 4 days I have let it dry out (luckily hot as hell) as well as putting a damp rid over the fuse box. I have NOT started it. I haven't even put the battery back in. Any thoughts on how long I should wait for it to dry out before seeing if I destroyed my car????

It's an 06 TC although I doubt that really matters for this.

Also, while I'm here, how do I know if I have 1st or 2nd generation?

 

06 is first generation. Not sure how long it'll take to dry out. Compressed air or a hair dryer might help.

 

Thankyou. I thought it was first but didn't know for sure. I appreciate it.

I've done the air and put all the fuses in rice as well. Left hood open in the 100 degree heat for 2 days (watching weather carefully) Can't get hair dryer to reach the engine.

 

You can also use a small slotted screwdriver or anything that can be fit in between the fuses as a pry bar to pry them out. Does not need to be the fuse puller tool. Although it is nice to have. If you don't have a fuse tester at least put the fuses up to the light and check the centers to make sure the fusible metal links inside haven't popped. When they have popped the metal fusible link in the center will be broken. If the metal link is intact the fuse is still good. Then use a flashlight and look down into each slot the fuses go in one by one and make sure there still isn't any water in them. If there is q-tips may help to get into the fuse slots to soak up the water. Once everything looks all clear put the fuses back into their corresponding slots using the fuse box cover as a guide to show where each fuse value goes. Let us know how it goes.

 

Thanks, I learned how to check fuses while in fuse box with multimeter. I tried pulling with pliers but cracked one. All fuses are good. I'm now trying to check DCL but between finding info AND learning multimeter (and when I need to disconnect battery/abbreviations etc.) I'm 2 weeks without a car already. Daily lightning storms haven't helped.

Would be much easier if every video wasn't different, on a different vehicle or done in a room with something totally different. I'm very dyslexic so numbers are impossible. Need visual or step by step. So once I figure something out, I have to go into photoshop (since that IS my specialty) and create a step by step with some photos and reminders about battery, ohms, volts etc and read electrical diagrams.

 

Glad you know how to use a MM to check fuses. Simple continuity check is best to test them.
Not sure what acronym DCL is but sounds like you're checking wiring diagrams or possibly trouble codes? Do you have an obd trouble code tester to check for them? Is your engine light on? I have an inexpensive Bluetooth obd adapter that connects to my phone and use Torque app to check for trouble codes and other diagnostics. Very valuable tool to have. What was the initial cooling fan issue?

 

Were you able to save your tC? Was it just the fuse box flooded; I usually hear flooded vehicles get their electronics fried